Re: Emergency brake is stuck
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2024 2:40 pm
The 510 610 710 adjuster looks like it will work. Would have to have one in hand.
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Curtis wrote: Thu Sep 19, 2024 2:40 pm The 510 610 710 adjuster looks like it will work. Would have to have one in hand.
Gregs672000 wrote: Tue Sep 17, 2024 11:58 am The way the brakes work is a hydraulic cylinder pushes outwards a fairly small amount against the brake shoes which are like half circles which then press against the drum... so if the cylinder is extended for any reason (hydraulic or mechanical) the drum will not come off, and it needs to to gain access. So, first examine how the mechanical and brake part works and see if it is hanging up. With the parking brake off there should be slack in the linkage. If that's not it, there is a brake shoe adjusting screw/bolt at the bottom of the backing plate that has a square head (often rounded off) that will back the brake shoes off the drum if you turn it counter clockwise. You may need a pair of vice grips to lock on and turn it, and it will take several turns but eventually that should relieve the tension on the shoes/drum allowing you to remove the drum. Be as nice to this adjuster square head as I said, they are often rounded off and should be engaged well so your tool/pliers etc are not spinning and rounding the head. Hitting the drum hard and repeatedly in several places with a RUBBER maillot can be very helpful as it vibrates things and loosens them, and after getting very hot from your drive I'd imagine things have tightened up a lot.
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Hey Greg - Yep, found the square head adjuster. Photo attached. I don't have any socket or wrench that is a perfect fit. 9/32 is close but there is some play. So I did not try this one. 7mm is too small, 8mm is too big. The head looks to be in good shape. So I'm cautious not to do more damage by using a tool that does not fit. I've put some penetrating spray on it and will put more and let is set. Then I'll try the vice grips to see if I can move it. Then the rubber mallet. Hoping to get back to it tomorrow.Gregs672000 wrote: Tue Sep 17, 2024 11:58 am The way the brakes work is a hydraulic cylinder pushes outwards a fairly small amount against the brake shoes which are like half circles which then press against the drum... so if the cylinder is extended for any reason (hydraulic or mechanical) the drum will not come off, and it needs to to gain access. So, first examine how the mechanical and brake part works and see if it is hanging up. With the parking brake off there should be slack in the linkage. If that's not it, there is a brake shoe adjusting screw/bolt at the bottom of the backing plate that has a square head (often rounded off) that will back the brake shoes off the drum if you turn it counter clockwise. You may need a pair of vice grips to lock on and turn it, and it will take several turns but eventually that should relieve the tension on the shoes/drum allowing you to remove the drum. Be as nice to this adjuster square head as I said, they are often rounded off and should be engaged well so your tool/pliers etc are not spinning and rounding the head. Hitting the drum hard and repeatedly in several places with a RUBBER maillot can be very helpful as it vibrates things and loosens them, and after getting very hot from your drive I'd imagine things have tightened up a lot.
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Here is Mike Youngs rear adjuster tool solution. hex wrench with, 1/4 inch drive socket.DatsunUtah wrote: Mon Sep 23, 2024 4:39 pm Hey Greg - Yep, found the square head adjuster. Photo attached. I don't have any socket or wrench that is a perfect fit. 9/32 is close but there is some play. So I did not try this one. 7mm is too small, 8mm is too big. The head looks to be in good shape. So I'm cautious not to do more damage by using a tool that does not fit. I've put some penetrating spray on it and will put more and let is set. Then I'll try the vice grips to see if I can move it. Then the rubber mallet. Hoping to get back to it tomorrow.IMG_4532.JPG
Also note the asbestos that does you in is so microscopic , you have 1 billion red blood cells in 3 drops of blood , the asbestos particles are 1/50th the size of red blood cells they say a dust mask won't stop it ,DAC21 wrote: Wed Sep 25, 2024 8:04 pm Just a little FYI. If you are dealing with a Roadster that has been sitting for many years, or driven low miles you could be dealing with asbestos brake linings. Best use a spray bottle to water things down during disassembly to keep dust from getting into the air. A high quality mask wouldn't hurt as well.
Yes, I should have been more specific, you need to get an asbestos rated respirator. Though I believe they can be found under $50. One of my best Buddies died of mesothelioma in 2009. He along with myself and another half dozen close buddies to this day worked the same gas stations in the late 70's, early 80's that performed brake jobs, tire repair and balancing. I'm pretty sure his wife received a settlement. I'm only surprised he was the only one that got the disease. I believe it manifests 20 -30 years after exposure, so we are all well into and beyond that now.redroadster wrote: Thu Sep 26, 2024 1:15 pmAlso note the asbestos that does you in is so microscopic , you have 1 billion red blood cells in 3 drops of blood , the asbestos particles are 1/50th the size of red blood cells they say a dust mask won't stop it ,DAC21 wrote: Wed Sep 25, 2024 8:04 pm Just a little FYI. If you are dealing with a Roadster that has been sitting for many years, or driven low miles you could be dealing with asbestos brake linings. Best use a spray bottle to water things down during disassembly to keep dust from getting into the air. A high quality mask wouldn't hurt as well.