Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

12k is not even close to absurd. Most shops in ATL won't touch a restoration anymore since they make all their money on insurance jobs.

I'd bet the average is going to be over 20k easy, with nicer jobs over 30. Black and Red will be the most expensive.

Sucks, but a least roadsters are small- a Belair or caddy will really set you back.

Sora blue.

Had my disassembly, their surface prep, shot with Extra Red Imron single stage urethane in 1980, by a local aircraft paint shop, in their hangar, for $1500. Still flying!

I got a few more quotes that came in at the 6-9k range, I’m going to strip the inside of the doors and see what I can do myself - I figure if it turns out alright, I can do the rest of the car - if it doesn’t, I’ll just strip it again and send it off to people who know much more than me!

I was very close to going with a light blue as well, but right now I’m leaning towards a dark midnight blue.

Stripping it just painted isn't fun or easy sanding
It's half as hard to paint horizontal as vertical for runs ,but with the 2 part cleat coat you'd wait until tomorrow use a run plane unless it's a waterfall of paint and CC it , you use the air only stage of the spray gun to dry it quicker helps saves many runs
You need bright lites to see the car well is 1 rookie mistake
If you are going to try it I recommend getting a quart of rustolium, a Zahn cup mix with acetone ,mineral sprirts
And paint vertical with that to get good at it ,my hood on a dodge truck
I couldn't find auto white paint that wouldn't peel from the zinc primer but no probs with the rustolium yet

Paining prices have become absolutely absurd these days. Partially due I’m sure to tougher EPA regulations and of course a tighter labor market. Seven or eight years ago after I completed all the body work and before I painted my car I checked with a local high volume (not MAACO) paint shop and was quoted about $800. When I said no, I mean a good paint job he said that would be about $3,000. Does that include the trunk and engine compartment I said, no he replied another $500 for that. Since my original plan was to paint it myself I opted to do just that. The day before I did the painting I spent a little over $600 for paint and materials. Like you I was willing to take the chance and concede to the pros if I failed. Luckily it turned out great, not perfect by any means but no runs, drips, or big errors. In fact I’d say it’s much better than the cheapo paint jobs that at the time we’re under a grand. I’d say that if you’re willing to take the risk then go for it. A couple of things though, you need a clean well lit place to do it in. I had a 14’X 56’ bay in my shop to spray in and I left all three overhead doors open ( car located towards the back ) and just aimed a big fan towards them. Redroadster mentioned bright lights and he is dead on! I had 4 four foot 2 bulb fluorescent lights wall mounted on each side, three across the rear and a big spot light pointing at the front. It wasn’t enough! You also need a GOOD high volume air compressor, one that doesn’t have to constantly run so as not to introduce any moisture into your hose. Then you need to absolutely put in the labor to do a high quality cut and buff. I’m talking not just hours of time, but days. Maybe a little less time if your not in your mid 60’s like I was. One thing I can say for sure, if you do a reasonably good job than the pride of having done it yourself easily negates any of the imperfections! Oh, if it doesn’t work out can can always have it redone by a pro

Here's an option if you're looking for a really nice result and you have more time than money: especially if you're doing metallic and you have some but not much painting experience.

Rust and dent work aside; use a rotisserie and finish all paintwork through to primer/sealer. Finish paint (base and clear) the underbody, interior incl jambs, inner trunk, engine compartment, interior side of doors, underside of hood and decklid. Paint everything incl a bit of finish out onto the outer body and panel edges. What's left is the easy part for a prof shop; (prep, mask and paint the outside of the car). You can paint components as go without getting overwhelmed. There are ways to do this outdoors if necessary. You may find that after doing all this painting, you are confident in doing the final paint that the prof shop would otherwise do (assuming you have the environment set up to do it).