3 or 5 main

[Curtis]

My car has an aluminum head and engine painted blue. It will now be black as I don't like the blue at all.

[Habitat.pat]

Curtis, I also saw the blue as not working on my red 67.5 so I went with Cast Iron Gray. I’ve never liked working on engines that were black or black engine compartments, you couldn’t see anything!

Here’s what I ended up with.

IMG_1333.jpeg

[Daryl Smith]

Pat,
I really like that cast iron grey on the block.
Oil filter? Does it work properly like that? I've only ever seen the oil filter mounted the other way around with the filter on top.....If it does work properly that way and I've been missing something all these years I'm about to switch it over!!

[Habitat.pat]

No, the oil filter is backwards. I found out when I primed the engine while still on the stand, oil leaked out between the block & adapter. Don’t know why they put the filter on pointing up, makes more of a mess when removing it.

Peace, Pat

[Daryl Smith]

"Looking into strokers and came across the 3 or 5 talking point"

BAMUZ,
1) Your head has the air injection ports at the exhaust, so is definitely a metric head. Likely the block is also, but to be sure you will need to check a bolt/nut somewhere....Not the headbolts, they're all SAE...

2) Having built both a 3 main and 5 main stroker, I would advise to stick with the 5 main metric block. U20 or H20 cranks are more available, as are bearings etc. vs the G15 crank, which is also a bit more fragile. G15 crank will also limit you to about 1800cc where as you will get about 2000cc and more power and torque with the U/H20 cranks.

Pat, okey dokey, that's what I thought, and why I was hoping it could be turned around.....damn.

[Habitat.pat]

Daryl, maybe we should rename the color to”Stroker Gray”!

[Curtis]

The R16 allows a lot of mix and match. So one of the first things which is easily done is identify what you have.

I currently have an H20 stroker in my car with iron head. I am currently building two of the 3 main 1800 stroker so the cars will be numbers matching.

I have another 5 main block which I had planned to stroke to 2L. Unfortunately the U20 crank I bought years ago I just found out is cracked.

U20 and H20 cranks have become harder to get at a decent price. The crank shop wanted a lot of money to shorten the snout. I didn't want to use the spacer.

Now I have everything to build one except the crank. So I'm thinking about buying the repro H20 crank made in China. I figure as long as you're not reving the crap out of it it will be fine.

[Curtis]

I put clear coat on my block and stuff shows right up.

[BAMUZ]

"Looking into strokers and came across the 3 or 5 talking point"

BAMUZ,
1) Your head has the air injection ports at the exhaust, so is definitely a metric head. Likely the block is also, but to be sure you will need to check a bolt/nut somewhere....Not the headbolts, they're all SAE...

2) Having built both a 3 main and 5 main stroker, I would advise to stick with the 5 main metric block. U20 or H20 cranks are more available, as are bearings etc. vs the G15 crank, which is also a bit more fragile. G15 crank will also limit you to about 1800cc where as you will get about 2000cc and more power and torque with the U/H20 cranks.

Pat, okey dokey, that's what I thought, and why I was hoping it could be turned around.....damn.

Okay that’s what I will do and I appreciate the small details—that helps me a lot so okay I definitely want to stay the 5 main route

I put clear coat on my block and stuff shows right up.

Very cool, do you have to get a temperature specific clear or any clear will do? Hadn’t seen that yet to be honest!

[DAC21]

"Looking into strokers and came across the 3 or 5 talking point"

BAMUZ,
1) Your head has the air injection ports at the exhaust, so is definitely a metric head. Likely the block is also, but to be sure you will need to check a bolt/nut somewhere....Not the headbolts, they're all SAE...

2) Having built both a 3 main and 5 main stroker, I would advise to stick with the 5 main metric block. U20 or H20 cranks are more available, as are bearings etc. vs the G15 crank, which is also a bit more fragile. G15 crank will also limit you to about 1800cc where as you will get about 2000cc and more power and torque with the U/H20 cranks.

Pat, okey dokey, that's what I thought, and why I was hoping it could be turned around.....damn.

I saw those tubes on the head, but no air injection on the intake ports. Frankenstein motor?

[Curtis]

Engine clear coat. I think we have hijacked this thread a bit.

[BAMUZ]

Engine clear coat. I think we have hijacked this thread a bit.

I don’t mind haha learning some things lol!
And to be honest I’m not sure what all has been deleted yet
The guy said it was sitting for 14 years and hadn’t ran. Put a gas can to it with a battery and a couple squirts of starter fluid and it turned right over !

[Daryl Smith]

"I saw those tubes on the head, but no air injection on the intake ports. Frankenstein motor?"

Nope. Air injection has always been on/in the exhaust ports on the head (for the roadster). Started in 1967.5 or '68? Why the air is injected opposite to exhaust flow is not clear to me, nor why it wouldn't be into the exhaust manifold instead......???
You must be confusing it with something else, because there would be no reason to inject 'air' in the intake ports....? Fuel, yes....but not for a few years...and not for this engine.

There are 'plugs' available that just screw into the head instead of the air injectors to give a clean look, and eliminate a 'chicken' sound that I have never heard....(never had a smog head running on my engines).

[DAC21]

"I saw those tubes on the head, but no air injection on the intake ports. Frankenstein motor?"

Nope. Air injection has always been on/in the exhaust ports on the head (for the roadster). Started in 1967.5 or '68? Why the air is injected opposite to exhaust flow is not clear to me, nor why it wouldn't be into the exhaust manifold instead......???
You must be confusing it with something else, because there would be no reason to inject 'air' in the intake ports....? Fuel, yes....but not for a few years...and not for this engine.

There are 'plugs' available that just screw into the head instead of the air injectors to give a clean look, and eliminate a 'chicken' sound that I have never heard....(never had a smog head running on my engines).

OK. this is the thread I saw the photo of the manifold ports, but missed that it was a U20

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum ... 839/page1/

[Daryl Smith]

Well, yes, it is part of the smog system, but, those are not 'air injection ports'.
I don't know how the system works, honestly, or what the connection to the intake manifold is for, except maybe to regulate the air injection via manifold vaccuum??

There is a picture on this thread part way down showing the top portion of the system where it connects to the intake manifold and head, and then the picture below it shows the smog plugs installed.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum ... 586/page1/