Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

You are correct Greg. We are never really down. In fact, I had some wheel hop last week on a hard launch. My car never came with torque arms. I am leaning towards making a tunnel mount style.

Thanks drieseck. There is a reason I point everyone on Facebook here. Just about everything has been done and there is an abundance of info.

I have realized that I might like working on this car more than I like actually driving it. Something to occupy my mind I guess.

I did quickly realize that not having a torque arm was a bad thing. I had a lot of wheel hop with anything more than an "easy" launch with the car. So I made a tunnel style torque arm and it works perfect. No changes to handling and zero wheel hop in all conditions.


After this update I did finish out the summer and fall driving the car. And I can say a turbo SR20 roadster is a lot more fun than a NA SR20 Roadster. However I am clearly cannot leave things well enough alone so I decided to change everything "turbo" related.

Enter GT2560R and Artec Manifold

This was going to take some massaging to get it fit but would be a better overall platform than S13 turbo and log manifold.

First up was to modify the manifold to allow wastegate to fit in the roadster. I hated cutting into the beautiful Artec Manifold but it had to be done. I also had to notch the body slightly just for a little more clearance. This would aid the turbo drain line too.

Next up is a new downpipe that would match back up to my previous exhaust system. For now this will be 3" narrowed to 2.5" I will eventually continue with 3"

With the area getting more cramped I had to modify my existing heat shield for clearance of the wastegate. Then a quick mockup. One thing I should mention is that I did need to modify the steering shaft with a couple more u-joints. There was 1/4" interference with the Artec Manifold as is. I forgot to take pictures of this.

New intake needed to be made to tie it all together. Here is the final mockup before I broke everything back down and pulled the engine.

After patching up the some holes, giving the engine bay a paint refresh. I am in process of reassembly. One important thing on my list was re-doing the oil filter and fueling system.

Fueling system first. I am putting the car on flex fluel to help the NA SR20 live as long as possible. Most of the time I have access to pump E85. To achieve this I added Radium Top feed fuel rail, ID1050X injectors, DW filter and FPR along with GM Ethanol sensor.

The other change I wanted to make was the oil filter location. Although I loved the placement before for easy of handling. What I found was regardless of what filter I used the oil quickly drained back down into the block. Therefore on every startup the lines and filter would re-prime. The solution was to move it lower and still have easy access.

And there we have it. This is where I am at as I enter winter.

Very cool stuff! And everything just in time for a long winter snooze? Are you going to take it to the dyno for some tuning?

I agree, very nice work! I hear you on start-up oil starvation. I hate the rattle on my cold U20, even with the tensioner shimmed. Since I have a kill switch that still allows the starter to run, I crank my stone cold engine no spark/no fuel for 15-20 cranks or so to get the oil pumping, then flip the switch and fire the engine. Shortens or eliminates the rattle.

mojorising84 wrote: Sun Nov 17, 2024 10:33 am Very cool stuff! And everything just in time for a long winter snooze? Are you going to take it to the dyno for some tuning?

I had good luck with RS-Enthalpy on Nistune the first time around so I am sticking with him. Previously I was running a s14 ECU w/Nistune. For this upgrade I switched to a S13 ecu as it supports both Flex-fuel and VCT trigger with Nistune. I received/installed the tuned ECU for my setup from RS Enthalpy already. Just had to move around a few wires to match the S13 to s14 wiring harness.

Gregs672000 wrote: Sun Nov 17, 2024 12:34 pm I agree, very nice work! I hear you on start-up oil starvation. I hate the rattle on my cold U20, even with the tensioner shimmed. Since I have a kill switch that still allows the starter to run, I crank my stone cold engine no spark/no fuel for 15-20 cranks or so to get the oil pumping, then flip the switch and fire the engine. Shortens or eliminates the rattle.

I did not have any noticeable noise on startup. It was more that I knew it was happening and I had a way to prevent it so why not. Get oil to everywhere just a little bit quicker.

CART418 wrote: Thu Apr 20, 2023 9:06 am
The other addition was adding some heat to the car. The original heater core and fan where in terrible condition and beyond repair. I wanted to extend my riding season here in Wisconsin and an issue that I had in early spring and late fall was a foggy windshield around the lake. After some research I came across a small unit from T7Design. It will allow me to run some 2" ducting up to the vents in the dash. It is also compact enough to fit in the car.

20230402_135930.jpg
20230405_193136.jpg

How did the T7 heater system work out for you and Ginny?? I am looking at the same and would love to know how it performs in the Roadster!

https://www.t7design.co.uk/t7design-3-5 ... 9-2b8.html

Thanks!

ADR wrote: Sat Jan 25, 2025 3:00 pm

CART418 wrote: Thu Apr 20, 2023 9:06 am
The other addition was adding some heat to the car. The original heater core and fan where in terrible condition and beyond repair. I wanted to extend my riding season here in Wisconsin and an issue that I had in early spring and late fall was a foggy windshield around the lake. After some research I came across a small unit from T7Design. It will allow me to run some 2" ducting up to the vents in the dash. It is also compact enough to fit in the car.

20230402_135930.jpg
20230405_193136.jpg

How did the T7 heater system work out for you and Ginny?? I am looking at the same and would love to know how it performs in the Roadster!

https://www.t7design.co.uk/t7design-3-5 ... 9-2b8.html

Thanks!

I have no complaints. It does exactly what I needed it to do. Works to defrost the window and adds enough heat for a 50deg F morning. It by no means puts out the same heat or air flow as a stock unit. I was not looking for that though.

Keeping the windshield defrosted is my only goal, so that sounds like a good fit for me as well. Thanks!