Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Bwk2000 wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 8:08 am A bit curious. You said there was no indication of coolant in the oil but didn’t mention anything about either finding coolant on the plugs, a big white cloud coming out of the exhaust or if a compression check was done - So, how do you know the head gasket is gone?


Also, Mike & Greg are correct, focus initial efforts on fixing safety issues first: steering, suspension, brakes, frame damage.

That's what I was told by the mechanic, there was some light smoke from the tail pipe but I think they used most water which might be the reason for not that much separation? Not sure tbh but I figured better to take the safe than sorry route and open it up to see if there is any other problem before paying additional mechanics to look at it again.

And yea my first jobs are definitely on safety for sure. Gonna probably be disconnecting/removing things and some cleaning today since I figured I'ma have to be removing a lot of parts from the engine bay so might as well.

theunz wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 7:24 am https://www.datsunrestorationproducts.com/ I believe has a kit for relocating the alternator, but really I’d put that way down the list of items that need attention. First thing is to concentrate on safety, rust through on frame, brakes, steering, etc. Then reliability, new hoses, fuel lines, fraying wires and such. Save cosmetics for last. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen someone right off the bat spend big bucks on fancy wheels and tires and new paint only to never get the project to the driving stage. Tires will age out after about 5 years and no longer be as safe as they should be, and cars that are painted before everything else is done stand a good chance of having something fall on them, spilled on them, or just getting bumped or scratched will finishing up the resto.
As for the oil filter wrench, save your money! It sounds as you are a little light in the tool department, so spend money there wisely. A hammer and a screw driver will get your filter off. A very large pair of adjustable pliers that will fit around the filter is a better and more useful tool. Besides that I’ve never had much luck with filter wrenches, and I’ve had several!
Good luck with your project and the number one thing to remember is that it’s suppose to be FUN, When it’s not fun take a break and resume later when you have calmed down and are excited to get back to it.

Thank you! I might have some of them pliers, if not that seems like a more sensible thing to buy than the filter wrench. I'm definitely gonna try to have fun, at least more so than working on my last car! I think it's easier to see the fun aspect this time when you don't need it going for daily driving.

Kinnaird wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 8:59 am …
That's what I was told by the mechanic …

I would go back there and talk with the mechanic who went through your car. Ask him specifically how he determined the head gasket was blown - Peace of mind & confirmation really.

Bwk2000 wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 9:59 am

Kinnaird wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 8:59 am …
That's what I was told by the mechanic …

I would go back there and talk with the mechanic who went through your car. Ask him specifically how he determined the head gasket was blown - Peace of mind & confirmation really.

Makes sense, I could probably give him a call

If you do change the head gasket, make sure that the long head bolt goes in the proper spot

Garage sales are often good places to get good used tools that can sometimes be better than new. One tool I would buy new would be a torque wrench as they can go bad and are used to set fasteners to a specific tightness. Doesn't have to be special, Harbor Freight has one (3/8 Drive, click type) on sale for $15.00, down from $20 through this week; timing light for $30 (might find one at a garage sale); look around for a "one-man" brake bleeder kit (HF has a few with pumps, but mine is just a small container with a one way valve and tubing); feeler gauge set ($5.00 HF); tie rod separator forks (gonna need them to replace the boots/seals... kinda spendy at $60, may find at garage sale); a breaker bar (usually 1/2" drive so you'll need an adapter to 3/8" OR have some 1/2 drive sockets to go with, all metric of course) $22 new at HF, garage sales are good; a serious hammer (meaning heavy duty); set of metric wrenches (thinner is better to get into tight places), ratchet and socket set, and a few extensions (I assume you already have some of these things); an electrical test light and/or a multimeter (super cheap at HF); a wire stripping and crimping tool; a few different sizes and style of locking pliers (HF, garage sales); may need a set of flair nut wrenches for removing brake lines if needed (metric, I think they are 8mm and 10mm, might be 11mm); a good set of screw drivers; a flat blade putty knife for scraping gaskets; a second set of Jack stands; some variety of wire brushes are nice for cleaning stuff off of things in small places; a pair of mechanics gloves can be nice, and some eye protection is a good idea. Oh, and what I believe is a 27mm socket (the one I use is 1 1/16", slightly loose) to more easily rotate the engine by hand with the crank shaft bolt (others need to confirm if it's 27 or 28mm, the 1 1/16" will work).

That's all I can think of right now... others are welcome to chime in on their suggestions or often used tools to get you rolling. Might consider a compression tester as that will help determine the engines condition some, and confirm the head gasket if it's a bad leak ($30 HF, should do the job). If you don't have a HF near you, I've bought a number of things off Amazon, most were good (cheap $15 compression tester was crap). Garage sales are great; I still have some of my Craftsman tools I got more than 40 years ago at a garage sale for cheap... hope this helps!

Gregs672000 wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:51 am Garage sales are often good places to get good used tools that can sometimes be better than new. One tool I would buy new would be a torque wrench as they can go bad and are used to set fasteners to a specific tightness. Doesn't have to be special, Harbor Freight has one (3/8 Drive, click type) on sale for $15.00, down from $20 through this week; timing light for $30 (might find one at a garage sale); look around for a "one-man" brake bleeder kit (HF has a few with pumps, but mine is just a small container with a one way valve and tubing); feeler gauge set ($5.00 HF); tie rod separator forks (gonna need them to replace the boots/seals... kinda spendy at $60, may find at garage sale); a breaker bar (usually 1/2" drive so you'll need an adapter to 3/8" OR have some 1/2 drive sockets to go with, all metric of course) $22 new at HF, garage sales are good; a serious hammer (meaning heavy duty); set of metric wrenches (thinner is better to get into tight places), ratchet and socket set, and a few extensions (I assume you already have some of these things); an electrical test light and/or a multimeter (super cheap at HF); a wire stripping and crimping tool; a few different sizes and style of locking pliers (HF, garage sales); may need a set of flair nut wrenches for removing brake lines if needed (metric, I think they are 8mm and 10mm, might be 11mm); a good set of screw drivers; a flat blade putty knife for scraping gaskets; a second set of Jack stands; some variety of wire brushes are nice for cleaning stuff off of things in small places; a pair of mechanics gloves can be nice, and some eye protection is a good idea.

That's all I can think of right now... others are welcome to chime in on their suggestions or often used tools to get you rolling. Might consider a compression tester as that will help determine the engines condition some, and confirm the head gasket if it's a bad leak ($30 HF, should do the job). If you don't have a HF near you, I've bought a number of things off Amazon, most were good (cheap $15 compression tester was crap). Garage sales are great; I still have some of my Craftsman tools I got more than 40 years ago at a garage sale for cheap... hope this helps!

Thank you! This list is awesome, and definitely more than I reali,ed I was missing but I don't mind putting money towards parts for sure. Yea I just realized I needed a new breaker bar since the one I had previously came with the car I sold so gonna be buying a couple of these things today as I get started pulling the radiator and cleaning etc.

You're most welcome. I added a 27 or 28mm socket to the list after you posted...

Gregs672000 wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 11:06 am You're most welcome. I added a 27 or 28mm socket to the list after you posted...

28mm is the correct one

spl310 wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:30 am If you do change the head gasket, make sure that the long head bolt goes in the proper spot

Yes! +1

The difference is only a 1/4” at most for the one bolt - Just be careful when reassembling everything.

Good to know, I'm gonna be taking a lot of pictures beforehand too haha

The longer head bolt is easily identified as it has a circular mark on the head. If you get to that point, ask before you start putting things together.

Day #2 Update

I wasn't able to do much today, only worked on it for about two hours because of a stripped bolt in the second picture. Got the hood and headlights out and began removing the radiator, hopefully I can get it fully out tomorrow.

Respectfully,
Kinnaird

Looks like you have APR head bolts on the motor. This could mean good things internally for the motor.

jr02518 wrote: Mon Aug 29, 2022 6:58 pm Looks like you have APR head bolts on the motor. This could mean good things internally for the motor.

Yea? I'm happy to get some sort of possible good news haha, I think also the oil not seeming to have any coolant in it might also be a good sign