Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Also lastly I’m going to be pulling the engine at the end of June to change the current 4 speed out for a 5 speed. Am i going to have to redo the timing when I do that?

Bwk2000 wrote: Tue May 17, 2022 3:21 pm

jrusso07 wrote: Tue May 17, 2022 2:42 pm Snail Air flow meter: https://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac000124.html (Amazon is less $)

Not to hijack the thread, but I should probably get me one of those - Always have done it just by ear. Is that the best one for the buck?

I have one of these and a Uni-Syn. The snail doesn't restrict air flow where the Uni-Syn can and that chokes off the air and engine starts to die at idle. So with the uni-syn you can only leave on the carb for a few seconds to get a reading whereas the snail can stay in place...both work well...snail is a little easier to use

jrusso07 wrote: Tue May 17, 2022 4:30 pm
I have one of these and a Uni-Syn. The snail doesn't restrict air flow where the Uni-Syn can and that chokes off the air and engine starts to die at idle. So with the uni-syn you can only leave on the carb for a few seconds to get a reading whereas the snail can stay in place...both work well...snail is a little easier to use

Perfect! Thanks Joe

The snail, $39 on Amazon. The links work on my computer... but I'm techno challenged.

kennyele11 wrote: Tue May 17, 2022 4:25 pm Also lastly I’m going to be pulling the engine at the end of June to change the current 4 speed out for a 5 speed. Am i going to have to redo the timing when I do that?

Nope, completely unrelated.

If you need a 7.5 recurve kit and a new vacuum advance then I have both, $130 plus shipping.

Since your distributor is missing some parts that need to be replaced and the fact that there could be significant wear in it you might consider getting an electronic one. https://eastcoastroadster.com/ Most users report better results over the OEM distributor. In my case, I’m running the OEM with over 100,000 miles on it without issues.

Okay so I decided to go ahead and order an ei from east coast roadster but in the mean time I’ve decided it’s a good time to adjust the valves. Anyway, how can you identify which valve is intake and which valve is exhaust? Is the adjustment furthers to right to cylinder 1 exhaust or intake?

kennyele11 wrote: Thu May 19, 2022 2:15 pm Okay so I decided to go ahead and order an ei from east coast roadster but in the mean time I’ve decided it’s a good time to adjust the valves. Anyway, how can you identify which valve is intake and which valve is exhaust? Is the adjustment furthers to right to cylinder 1 exhaust or intake?

Cylinder 1 is at the front. The easiest way to tell an intake from an exhaust valve is look where its located. Is it in front of an intake port? If so, its an intake. If its in front of an exhaust, that would be the exhaust valve. In the case of a U20, from right to left, exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust, exhaust, intake, and finally #4 exhaust.

Will

Thank you!

Suggested lash cold: 6 intake, 8 exhaust. That's tighter than stock but they loosen with heat and will be 8/10 respectively when hot. This takes practice as you can get them set but when you lock it down it will be off... you have to keep messing with it and keep the adjuster nut from moving while tightening the larger locker nut. You'll get it over time. With the ignition disconnected (in your case with the distributor removed) you can bump the starter to get it to roll to the next set of valves (intake and exhaust) for adjustment (cam lobe more or less pointing up). You'll know it's right when the 6 will go in but the 7 won't, etc.

Greg is right, on the cold adjustments, less burning of fingers, consistent temp during adjustments. I always err on the tight side. You can get a set of Go/No go feeler guages or just the sizes you want. When you think you're good, check them again. The "bump" method never works for me, I pull plugs, and turn by hand. Pat

Okay fellas I ordered the new EI distributor for east coast roadster and I’m having some problems. I had to send him my core first before getting the distributor and I removed the stock distributor not knowing I had to set it at TDC before removing. Anyway I tried to install the new distributor and everything went in correctly and I made sure to install it at TDC but when I start the car my timing is way off. I have the distributor all the way retarded and I’m still no where near the timing marks when using a timing light. What could be wrong? I also adjusted the stator so the points would line up correctly while the rotor was pointed to number 1 cylinder. Here I have a photo that was take while the number one piston is at TDC

You might want to read through this thread to confirm you are at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke.

viewtopic.php?t=18440

Kenneyele11 I sent a PM. Feel free to call me I'll talk you through it.
Tom