Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

This is my answer, finalized over the years. No heater core anymore so no controls in the console. The ignition was already located there when I got the car, as was the hand throttle, but I changed the stereo and added the wideband gauge and digital volt meter since my amp gauge was taken out of the circuit when it was rewired. The cigarette lighter runs the seat warmers and charges the phones. It's a little tight on the shifter but it rotates up just enough. Click on the pic and it will be right side up. You can tell we went for a walk on the woods last time we went out...

Pjackb wrote: Mon Apr 18, 2022 6:49 pm

Florida Roadster wrote: Mon Apr 18, 2022 1:38 pm I know these are the original knobs, so I was wondering if they can be sanded down smooth and then polished?

Yes they can but it's old plastic so I recommend manual wet sanding only , progressive sanding from ~400 to 3000 grit will get it smooth and shiny enough, fisnish with Meguiar 105-205 or ultimate compound and you'll be happy
again just make sure all by hand only

Got it, thanks!

Gregs672000 wrote: Mon Apr 18, 2022 7:14 pm This is my answer, finalized over the years. No heater core anymore so no controls in the console. The ignition was already located there when I got the car, as was the hand throttle, but I changed the stereo and added the wideband gauge and digital volt meter since my amp gauge was taken out of the circuit when it was rewired. The cigarette lighter runs the seat warmers and charges the phones. It's a little tight on the shifter but it rotates up just enough. Click on the pic and it will be right side up. You can tell we went for a walk on the woods last time we went out...

It seems that quite a few people changed the location of the ignition. I'll just keep it where it sits since the hole is already there in the dash, no point in moving it now. I see your phone charger but where do I put the cup holders? Gotta be able to tote around a Dr. Pepper somewhere!

Looks like the linkage for the Webers is incomplete (needs a cable cam or whatever those things are called), a breather for the valve cover routed to a catch can, and you can probably get rid of the choke cables (I never used or needed mine for similar set ups, but it's up to you). You could get a pair of Ram Air foam socks to go over the stacks for filtration when you drive, easy to pull off for show if desired, or source other options, but I do suggest running a stack. I love the look of dual Webers on an R engine. If you're going to drive the car for fun and you're rebuilding the engine, I'd strongly consider doing a stroker if you're in there anyway. Or maybe a good, quick reving R16 (or punched out to 1800?) version, with a light flywheel, a reasonable cam, a little head work... you already have the induction and spark improved to help take advantage of those changes.

These aren't Webers, but are Jenvey 40mm throttle bodies made to look a lot like Webers, right down to the screw cap jet cover (which does not come off!).

I think that Geral had it running on the SUs. A cable stand isn't too tough to make. I personally think that the linkage that comes with the manifold is junk. The cross bar is weak and flexes. There are top mount and bottom mount linkages. Lots of options.

Day Two. Started breaking down the car. Removed front and rear bumpers, headlight buckets, front and rear lights, reverse light, windshield, vent windows, door panels and door glass. Changed her shoes also and removed the 280Z wheels and back on the stock steelies. Removed the rocker cover to take a peek underneath.

Question and/or opinion from the forum members. From some old pictures that were sent to me by the previous owner, before he got the car, the original low bucket seats were still in the car. But when I bought the car it only came with a set of '68-'70 seats. Knowing that the original seats are hard to come by do I restore and use the '68-'70 seats or continue to search for some originals?

Why not do both? You can restore the 68's until you find the replacements at a price you can stomach. A properly restored set of the 68 seats can be sold probably pretty easily, so you shouldn't be out much more than your effort and the funds can go to pay for the replacements. Plus it keeps your project moving and drivable while you search.

notoptoy wrote: Wed Apr 20, 2022 12:08 pm Why not do both? You can restore the 68's until you find the replacements at a price you can stomach. A properly restored set of the 68 seats can be sold probably pretty easily, so you shouldn't be out much more than your effort and the funds can go to pay for the replacements. Plus it keeps your project moving and drivable while you search.

That's true, but unfortunately I'm a looooooooong way from installing seats anyway.

So, it appears that I have a convertible top frame, header bow, and latches all in very good condition. The problem? They are for later model cars. Well, the (3) latches and header bow are definitely from the later cars, but I'm not sure about the frame. Is there a difference between the frames for low windshield cars versus high windshield cars? Does anyone have an early model header bow or latches that they would like to trade?

Yes, completely different. I believe that Henry Kahn has a spare frame in Kissimmee.

spl310 wrote: Thu Apr 21, 2022 4:51 pm Yes, completely different. I believe that Henry Kahn has a spare frame in Kissimmee.

Can you tell if my frame is an early or later model? How can you spot the difference? It seems like it matches up with where the windshield is supposed to be or was before I removed it. By the way, it was not attached to the car when I bought it, just laying inside the car.

Your top frame is a late. The late has 3 latches with the indent in the center (don't lose the spacer that should have been there, very important), while the early is smooth across the plane where the latches mount and it only has two latches. Also, the late frame bows have an adjustable rear hoop. The early hoop is not adjustable.