Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Are you out of travel on the lift, i.e., doesn't go up anymore?

I used straps, one under the exhaust manifold and another around the bracket mounted to engine on the passenger side. One thing you need is to make sure you start out with straps/chains or whatever you're using is sufficiently taut so you have room to pull up.

Thanks Joe and Yusef, appreciate the support. (No pun intended!)
I have plenty of travel, leveler is about 3” clear of valve cover.
Throttle cross shaft is blocking any more upward travel, I am going to put her back down and disconnect one side of that linkage (probably passenger side)
then also remove slip yoke and u-joint as Joe recommended.
More info to come when that is completed, (We’d. evening?) thanks Team!

The throttle cross shaft screws come out easily with 3/8 drive phillips head screw driver in your ratchet. The back of the trans. needs to drop in order for the pipe to come up to clear the motor mount bracket. The yoke needs to come out of the tail in order for the trans to drop. Another possible hang-up is the shifter. It works best for me if it is in 2nd gear position. I remove the radiator support brackets. I put my car up on jack-stands in order to have good access underneath, but my lift is probably higher than most.

FergO2k wrote: Sun Jan 10, 2021 5:26 pm Line and arrow drawn on the offending tube with red sharpie.
Inner tube about 1 diameter or slightly less from clearing. I understand why folks might use nylon straps around engine, because that facilitates twisting the whole unit within the tunnel. With chains supporting from head (pass side goes to alt support), twisting is not possible, because it is swinging from the chain mounts (they are much higher than engine Cg, while straps go under Cg)
Ahh well, patience and wrestling continue.
Header clash compressed.jpg

You have to lift it up at a pretty good angle. It won't come out the way you are trying to do it. As I said, lift as high as it will go, pull the hoist back till you are close to touching something with the oil pan or header, up as high as you can without bending anything, back as far as you can, up and back, up and back. Getting the header clear is the hardest part, but once its clear, its pretty easy sailing from there on.

Will

Thanks. Restricted in upward direction by throttle cross-shaft, which is the next thing to come out. Cannot achieve any upward travel, as it contacts that shaft pretty quick. Cannot come forward because of header contacting, and since it hasn't come forward, the tail is still sitting on X-member, so no additional angle possible. (locked)
Once cross-shaft is out, then I assume header will clear and your process will work as planned.

if you take out oil pan and pump - gives you extra clearance

Is your radiator out?

might be a lot easier just to remove the intake and header....its not very difficult.

Sometimes "the hard way" is actually the easier way. j

I always set the car up on jack stands so I can increase the the amount I can drop the tail shaft. More angle more better. Probably about 35-40 degrees. I’ve never had to pull the throttle shaft. Be patient, you can do it. Once the header clears it’s all downhill.

I agree with Keith, I get the car up on stands- provides easy access below and allows the transmission to dip lower for max angle.

Thanks folks.
I will put her back up on the stands (had her there for all the removal, but was concerned as to chains+leveler+hoist height because I am working inside the garage, and it is not open rafters. (and has a "drop" for a sunken tub that was there when we moved in. that I demolished and removed soon after)
But now that hearing I need to remove rear slip yoke as well, I am only able to work thru the shifter hole, so I think I will go back up on the stands.
Radiator is out, oil pan clearing fine once I can go up and forward a bit more.
Will be removing tail yoke and throttle shaft this week, will report back on progress. (it is b-day time for all the ladies at our house, so garage time is minimal this week)

don't forget speedo and backup wiring!

Thanks! much appreciated. (and been WAY too long since I have seen you)
I thought I had all connections done, then the morning my work buddy was coming over, I noticed that the "heater core bypass" hose that I installed years ago looped thru the brake lines.... so I have her all loose, just hanging up on exit like a girlfriend with ears too big so they hit when getting out of the car door. (ok, strange analogy for the day!)

Never removed the jack shaft either. If you do drain the tranny or clean up the mess lol

cktrap is right, oil will come out of tranny when you angle it down. I tape a rattle can paint cover or similar over the end to reduce loss. As others have said, have tranny in second or fourth gear to lower control profile.

Have you tried pivoting the engine CCW as it hangs? That is, push cam over to the left and pull header to the right/up (looking at engine) before angling transmission down. You likely need two people, one on the lift and one biasing the engine. As the engine is pivoted, and it won't move much, lift it so header clears frame. It might hang on the frame but keep pivoting and lifting until it clears. You also have adjustment on angle with load leveler, so use all the adjustments you need. You might try a thin (1" thick) piece of wood between header and frame before you start, this can be used as a lever if needed, it can also lock up in there so choose wisely...