Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

notoptoy wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 9:36 pm Lots of questions, with no time to answer!
The 30A fuse in the alternator/ammeter circuit is recommended for ALL years.
Two flasher cans, one for the regular circuit and one for hazards.

Thank you!

Congratulations on the no start!!! This gives you the opportunity to save $$$$ and many hours by taking appropriate PM measures before causing damage. I had to replace the rocker arm shaft because it takes so long for oil to get to it when starting. Front brake wheel cylinders are EXPENSIVE!! you may be able to save them if you bleed the water out of them TODAY!!!

Before I leave for my knee replacement therapy and the torture that it is I updated this drawing. Shows what you need to know.

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_ ... out_68.pdf

C.Costine wrote: ↑Thu Oct 15, 2020 7:44 am Congratulations on the no start!!! This gives you the opportunity to save $$$$ and many hours by taking appropriate PM measures before causing damage. I had to replace the rocker arm shaft because it takes so long for oil to get to it when starting. Front brake wheel cylinders are EXPENSIVE!! you may be able to save them if you bleed the water out of them TODAY!!!

Well that is funny... But seriously, I wasn't planning on a going for a Sunday drive. It will be while before this thing is driven. Just wanted to solve the no crank situation to sort out what is what. I appreciate the feedback though, sincerely. I have a lot to learn about this little car.

Now that I am thinking about it, perhaps I should have added that I am not looking to start the engine, just bump it. I don't have gas lines hooked up at this point.

Curtis wrote: ↑Thu Oct 15, 2020 9:56 am Before I leave for my knee replacement therapy and the torture that it is I updated this drawing. Shows what you need to know.

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_ ... out_68.pdf

Thank you for that information Curtis, very helpful. Hope your therapy goes well. If you need a distraction, let me know, I have a ton more questions, haha.

Just want to clarify that this is what you meant in your writeup, adding an inline fuse where I marked your diagram in red?

I add it to the large white wire coming from the starter, I use an ATO fuse. You won't have enough wire to do it without scabbing on some wire. There is another way to do it. I'll go over it later.

You can put a fuse or circuit breaker in the white wire at the alternator (stock) on driver’s side. Also some have done a fuse in the starter harness also. As well a fuse can go on the white wire under the dash, just past the connectors. I have one there, came with my resto harness, and I have one at the alternator ( stock) that I had before the new dash harness and just left it .All this to protect the wiring and the ammeter which is just a guage that acts as a fuse, an expensive one.
Though you did not plan to drive it , just starting with bad wiring is enough to fry, so at least a preliminary once over is budget-friendly
Reading is a great way to find out the experiences and advice of the experts, of which I am not one, but I have had most problems you can have with these cars haha. Quite satisfying to solve them , either with help or the painfully slow do it yourself process that I most frequently use haha. Worth it though to drive such a fun little car.
Linda

Well, progress. It cranked. Unsuspectingly I might add. Someone from the FB group suggested looking at the switch more closely for voltage in and out, jut to make sure the wire was not bad between switch plug and the (I believe) starting harness. Well, after removing ignition switch from the column, and then going to do voltage check, it cranked when turned to START. Sweet, one more thing off the checklist. I will go over that wiring in more detail to make sure nothing else going on, but terminal were a bit corroded on that switch, so cleaned them up and will coat with some dielectric and hopefully that will be the end of that part of the process. Still wanting to confirm the best spot to add in this 30 amp fuse though, and will get that done today as well.

Linda wrote: ↑Thu Oct 15, 2020 10:49 am You can put a fuse or circuit breaker in the white wire at the alternator (stock) on driver’s side. Also some have done a fuse in the starter harness also. As well a fuse can go on the white wire under the dash, just past the connectors. I have one there, came with my resto harness, and I have one at the alternator ( stock) that I had before the new dash harness and just left it .All this to protect the wiring and the ammeter which is just a guage that acts as a fuse, an expensive one.
Though you did not plan to drive it , just starting with bad wiring is enough to fry, so at least a preliminary once over is budget-friendly
Reading is a great way to find out the experiences and advice of the experts, of which I am not one, but I have had most problems you can have with these cars haha. Quite satisfying to solve them , either with help or the painfully slow do it yourself process that I most frequently use haha. Worth it though to drive such a fun little car.
Linda

Hope I didn't sound snarky at all in my reply to C. Costine. I just wasn't sure he had the right perception of what was going on over here, but believe me, I have owned older air-cooled 911's, and I know these types of vehicles can become "gold plated" very quickly. I will always be welcoming of any friendly advice that comes from all of you that know these cars much better than I could possibly at this point, so hope that advice never stops. It will not fall on deaf ears, I assure you.

I had already gone through and lubed the cylinders and checked all of the fluids that I was aware of on the car before getting to this point. And I knew the engine was not locked up as well. The wiring, I admit, I was not thinking it would be such delicate matter, as I have owned plenty of cars, even older than this one, that were just fine with factory wiring. So I am learning and looking forward to the journey with this thing. Thank you again for all of the advice, and please keep it coming.

My intention at this point with this car is to get the mechanical and electrical all sorted before worrying about anything much on the body. The body needs work. But I will probably make some temp fixes to floors at some point, and then when mech and elect is sorted, drive it for a little while to decide if I actually like driving the car, hahha (that was some more sage advice from someone that owns one).

You are doing just fine with your questions and replies...we are not too delicate here
If you do a separate thread for each problem , like electrical , separate thread for carbs etc you will get the most readers, and also your thread will be instructive for those following.
You are making super progress, and we just want to try to err on the side of caution for your new ride
That switch should come right out of the housing, if it is like mine, then you have to put it back the same way, but it allows you to spray it liberally with electrical contact cleaner.

Linda

Thanks Linda, haven't been on a forum in a while, so I will follow your advice and try and be more directed in the questions and posts. By the way, after removing the ignition switch from my column, my blinkers are now actually working fine, thought the relays still look horrible. Guess it was more corrosion/dirt related to the switch on the column. Moving things around seemed to help. When you guys do build threads here, where does everyone like to locate them, General, Tech, ???

There is a thread called Member’s Garage where you can do your Build thread if you like. There you can post what you like , jump from topic to topic, post pics and document your whole build
See the Board Index button for a list of all thread Topics.
Linda