Slackline wrote: Sun Sep 20, 2020 10:59 am
My manifold hardware was a bit of a grab bag.
Different sized nuts, different washer arrangement, etc. Is there a resource that has the correct setup?
Hard to tell from the photos, but those look like SAE manifold studs. If so, any hardware store should have 5/16-24 stainless nuts and lockwashers. Metric is a bit harder to source, but we have it all too. You do need to know if metric or not.
JT68 wrote: Sat Sep 19, 2020 8:04 pm
Looks to me like the genius who put it together had the gasket swapped end-to end. The famous PO strikes again...The metal o-ring goes to the oil galley. The large hole goes forward. Yep, that header is quite the cobble job.
We have all the parts you might need including headers,headbolts or ARP fasteners and plenty of expertise on how to do the job properly.
I did the end for end thing the first time I took it off in the 70's, which quickly led to the second time i took it off.
Rick
Constantly working on the Datsun whenever I get around to it.
1968 SPL 311
1987 Toyota MR2 T-top (don't hate, wife's car)
2014 Ford Mustang convertible
SPF 50
Slackline wrote: Sun Sep 20, 2020 10:59 am
My manifold hardware was a bit of a grab bag.
Different sized nuts, different washer arrangement, etc. Is there a resource that has the correct setup?
Hard to tell from the photos, but those look like SAE manifold studs. If so, any hardware store should have 5/16-24 stainless nuts and lockwashers. Metric is a bit harder to source, but we have it all too. You do need to know if metric or not.
Calling on those more expert than I, but aren't the washer arrangements different because some studs are exhaust manifold and some are both exhaust and intake?
Rick
Constantly working on the Datsun whenever I get around to it.
1968 SPL 311
1987 Toyota MR2 T-top (don't hate, wife's car)
2014 Ford Mustang convertible
SPF 50
All your cooling passages looked to be gunked up. I would clean and check all the openings and block. Doesn't look like the coolant was changed like it should have. I like to go and check all the openings for any left over flash from the casting process and remove it. I have even gone and opened up some a bit more using the head gasket as a guide.
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
Head was not straight. Blow by between 2 and 3, and some into a cooling port. The fact that some of the head bolts were less than 50 pounds and others were at about 80 could have caused some warp. The ones outside of the valve cover were the over tightened ones. Perhaps they noticed the blow by and just cranked it down to seal it? No idea.
Anyway, he said he would take a minimal amount off just to get it in spec. He also said the surface was rough.
Hopefully it stays within spec and no interference issues....
The coolant passages in the block look a little iffy. I had one passage that looked good at first look but closer examination revealed that it was undercut by rust so that the deck was only paper thin in that spot.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
Because the head gasket was flipped, I think some of that may have been blocked off, which is probably why one is closed up completely. I'll get those cleaned up and flush everything afterwards.
Ok. I have the parts and am ready to put everything back together.
The ARP studs feel like they have some lube on them already. If I use them without adding any assembly lube, what do I torque them to? Still 45?
I also have some Toyota FIPG. I was going to put a tiny bead around the oil supply galley. Is this correct? I have the Nissan head gasket that does not have the metal ring around the oil galley.
Use the included ARP lube, the studs just have oil on them to prevent corrosion. 3 steps to 50 or 55ft-lbs. 50-55 is a good final number with ARPlube (that's over 65 dry, so MORE than enough- 75/80 is foolish). The lube make the torque process more even and uniform.
If you use the FIPG around the oil hole, keep it paper thin-literally just a film.
If you don't want to use the lube for some reason, 55-60 dry is plenty. (In truth if all the surfaces are prepped well 45-55 is perfectly satisfactory--every OEM engine left the factory with bolts at 45lbs)
Ok. New head gasket is on. Thin film of FIPG around oil galley since there was no metal ring. Bought some new hardware for the int/exh studs so it all matches. 8mm.
Got it all back together last night and fired it up. My choke won't lock or stay so I had to hold it. Car fired up once fuel got to the carbs. The problem is that the car starts idling very high. I shut it off while it is still increasing (maybe 2000 rpm). I don't want to rev it while cold and just reassembled.
My thoughts are vacuum leak or ??
No changes to the carbs. They were not removed from the intake. Ill check intake manifold gasket area.
