Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Typically the increased RPM as it warms up comes from taking all the slack out of the accelerator cable at the drum. Loosen the cable and add a little slack and see if the problem goes away.

C.Costine wrote: Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:25 am Bob, I agree with Greg, except let me add that you should CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN before going to the SEM. Now, be forewarned that you are getting into dangerous territory here. I was in the same place with my roadster in February of 2015. It wasn't until Nov of 2016, that I turned the corner and could say that I was actually getting closer to being done instead of further away every

IMG_0910.JPG

time that I worked on it. This is what it looked like last November. It is currently in 2K high build primer, and despite a lot of hours sanding and recoating here and there it doesn't look much different now. Hopefully I will be able to hit it hard this fall and be on the road next spring.

Does everyone just pop the shell off to paint ? I wish I had thought of that (and could actually do it ) to mine . Seems to be the best and complete kind of paintjob . I've got to learn that trick someday .

Lorna c wrote: Wed Aug 08, 2018 5:07 am

C.Costine wrote: Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:25 am Bob, I agree with Greg, except let me add that you should CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN before going to the SEM. Now, be forewarned that you are getting into dangerous territory here. I was in the same place with my roadster in February of 2015. It wasn't until Nov of 2016, that I turned the corner and could say that I was actually getting closer to being done instead of further away every

IMG_0910.JPG

time that I worked on it. This is what it looked like last November. It is currently in 2K high build primer, and despite a lot of hours sanding and recoating here and there it doesn't look much different now. Hopefully I will be able to hit it hard this fall and be on the road next spring.

Does everyone just pop the shell off to paint ? I wish I had thought of that (and could actually do it ) to mine . Seems to be the best and complete kind of paintjob . I've got to learn that trick someday .

I would like to learn that trick too!

C.Costine wrote: Wed Aug 08, 2018 5:44 pm

Lorna c wrote: Wed Aug 08, 2018 5:07 am

C.Costine wrote: Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:25 am Bob, I agree with Greg, except let me add that you should CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN before going to the SEM. Now, be forewarned that you are getting into dangerous territory here. I was in the same place with my roadster in February of 2015. It wasn't until Nov of 2016, that I turned the corner and could say that I was actually getting closer to being done instead of further away every

IMG_0910.JPG

time that I worked on it. This is what it looked like last November. It is currently in 2K high build primer, and despite a lot of hours sanding and recoating here and there it doesn't look much different now. Hopefully I will be able to hit it hard this fall and be on the road next spring.

Does everyone just pop the shell off to paint ? I wish I had thought of that (and could actually do it ) to mine . Seems to be the best and complete kind of paintjob . I've got to learn that trick someday .

I would like to learn that trick too!

Well , I know one thing for sure !
ITS NEVER AS EASY AS IT LOOKS OR SOUNDS .. EVER . except fixing my breakline so incorrect ly I had half the guys on here yelling at me to Chang it ! Shoot it's probably the fastest response:- I've gotten .haha and I know It wasn't because I stated everything correctly . , because I never do ..haha ..

Loosening the cable seemed to have helped, I got it down to 900-1000 rpm when hot. Maybe just a bit more slack and it'll be good. Thanks for the heads up.

Will you be driving it this weekend? haha

Over the weekend, I was able to install the new clutch m/c and drive my car 1 foot forward and 1 foot in reverse in my garage. Clutch pedal is higher than the brake pedal and the clutch release is high in the pedal travel as well, so I'll have to figure out how to adjust it.

I also installed a new brake m/c, but still need to bleed the brake, seems that all the bleeder valves are frozen, and I'm rounding off the heads. So, I'll have to figure that out too, before I have brakes. Any suggestions are welcome.

Meanwhile my clock is holding good time.

I seam to be all over this car. Got the hydraulics going, started sanding down the body, and chipping away at the floors, I'm going to see where dry ice is available before I continue the floors, but it's looking good so far.

Also, I have a new coolant leak, looks like it's coming from the small bypass hose from the heat shield to the heater valve.

Good times so far, learning a lot, I can't complain.

Try speed bleeders, or the equivalent, for brakes and clutch slave. So much easier to use.

Good Idea Linda,

But I have to get the old ones out first............

Hard at work getting the floors stripped, only surface rust, so I'll treat it and seal it. Also, got the fuel sender in, and noticed that my S. Brake light works. Still working on the brakes.

I did it the old fashion way, gave her a hammer and scraper
For anyone at the early stages of their car, I wouldn't skip this step.

For those who don't have a hammer and scraper an oscillating tool works very well for cleaning the old sound deadener out. Those oscillating tools are good for many things so you may as well get one now and save tome on various jobs.

I had a heater core leak so I pulled the carpet to dry it. Found lotsa surface rust. Pulled the sound deadening out, removed the rust and painted. Than I used gobs of bondo to make the floor flat.

I took the rear brakes apart as one brake was nearly locked up. Noticed that the adjuster is frozen, what should I do with it. Soak it in solvent? Any ideas.

PB Blaster?

For these older cars everyone shoudl have Kroil. I use it on my 64 as well as my 60 bug and it has done more than PB blaster ever has.

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-P ... B000F09CEA