Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Looks like a very successful week! Good job.

I suppose I should also state, Ive gotten her to start under her own power (no starter fluid)... And she'll run for 30s to 1min, running rough (though that may juat be in comparison to what Im accustomed to), and then putter out and refuse to start as if flooded.

Fair amount of smoke, but to be fair, old-ish gas with a stabilizer in it, and god knows what may have accumulated or nested in the exhaust since it was last registered in 1988.

Also, dumb question #2... SU carbs: The PO had capped off a fuel line on the T fitting closest to the oil fill cap, and left the fuel line coming off the carb closest to the firewall dangling... Scared the crap out of me first time I cranked it and sent fuel all over the ground. My best guestimate from what pictures Incouls find had thisnhose routed back to the T on the feed side? If this is too convoluted, Ill snap a picture after charging my phone.

I've honestly put in the bare minimum effort on getting her running at this point, so I'm sure theres a laundry list of things I'm overlooking (sealing up the body and addressing any ayructural issues so it doesnt rust out beneath me during the resto-mod is priority #1 for me, followed by brakes and safety stuff... Doesnt matter if it runs if I wouldnt feel safe letting someone else drive it).

Yep fuel goes thruogh the T on the front carb to the single bib on the rear carb.
There is a small hose on the bottom of each carb, connecting the bowl and nozzle. Remove them carefully and clean them out.
There is also drain plug on the fuel tank. Drain the junk and add new fuel.

The roadster had to take a back seat (huh huh... 2 seater puns) for a couple of weeks. Work, life and unfortunately another funeral for my better half's family (not unexpected, but never a plesant experience. And unfortunately common for us in the last 6 months. Guess we're getting to an age)...

But I'm back with a vengance! Ive managed to source a workable welder (sold mine before the move) on indefinite loan, and requisite sheet metal for free! A couple of bucks to rewire a mig gun switch Ok, ok... So I had a momentary already laying around - and a spool of wire and I'm off!

Lord help me on this thin stuff. It aint gotta be pretty... Its just gotta hold!

More pictures coming tomorrow

Pictures!

Managed to get the body up in the air by myself -- with a witness inside in case of an emergency. Special thanks to my tactical cinser blocks, excessive use of jack stands and the (16) 2" triabhles of scrap lefy from building the cradle!



Beginning to strip down the frame in anticipation of swap modifications and then (hopefully) either a professional dip or backyard electrolysis bath in order to clean up the inside as well. Thankfully Ive only identified one area of the frame (top plate only) that needs to be repaired. Sins of the PO. SMH - still a little bewildered by a beautifuly executed, if ill advised, fiberglass (read:watertrap) repair to the passenger floorboard. For the same amount of effort, a patch cpuld have been welded in back then. Oh well.

As a shameless plug and sidenote - the 1.6 engine and associated 5 speed manual are going to be up for sale in HTX! Anyone know what they're worth? Cranked and ran ok, but I didn't drive it at all before disassembly due to severed brake lines up front.

The 5 speed is worth money, the engine not so much.
Linda

Well - after a delay waiting for temps to come down (and mosquitos to die off), progress is resuming!

At least I was able to spend a lot of time devloping my plan of attack... I have some interesting ideas moving forward. I also finally managed to find a cost effective and "green" lighting solution for my patio workshop (2x8packs for under $100 shipped)-- currently have 30,500 lumens mounted for under 280W of power... Thats less than when we bingewatch House reruns on the PS4/TV/Surround. Heck, I still have 8800 lumens/4 lights ledt over... Theyre probably going to be soft mounted to the body cradle! Don't want to get in trouble by plugging them - so if anyone is interested PM me and Ill shoot you a link.
Hopefully in the next week I am going to finish stripping down the frame and construct a modular electrolysis tank (see: pond liner and plywood/stakes/ratchet strap braces) in order to use reverse-electeolysis to remove as much rust as possible from the frame. I plan clean off any remaining crud, por15 the outside and use an (eastwood?) internal frame coating to seal it back up.

My main concern is getting as much internal rust handled as possible. Some engineering is going into suspending rebar cathodes as deep inside the frame as possible (and dangling them in two exposed portions where the top plate has been removed due to excessive corrosion underneath the POs ill-advised fiberglass floor patches.

I am considering using electeolysis extensively on other parts as well, though I wont start down that path until it's time to tackle the visible paint/body.

Basically any removable bits have been taken off the body and catalogued - to be restored piece by piece before reinstallation.

Fab work and repair are underway on the front clip (shaving unnecessary holes, cable clips, etc etc.) The idea is to give me as blank of a slate as possible for the SR20DET swap. (I like clean lines) there is also a fair amount of bracing planned as well (Id rather gain a few pounds in 1/8" steel gusseting than twist something later - end goal is 250-300rwhp.

On my list of unusual ideas... I may try to swap in an early Miata climate control system behind the datsun controls. (Blower, heater core, etc) I think it's doable, definitely cheap, and readily available in decent condition...

Soon to come - a list of parts I wont be keeping! Time to find good homes and generate what $ I can to pump back into the project!
1.6 engine
Complete exhaust
5 speed transmission
Complete Rear axle
Radiator (without bracket?)
Climate control internals
Possibly fuel tank... Im considering building a cradle and using a newer cell.



TL;DR - I'm back in full swing, got some awesome lights so I can work later, still daydreaming about all the endless possibilities and I'm about ready to get rid of parts I wont need in the swap! More to come soon!

Also... Question:

Has anyone managed to safely and successfully route a 3" exhaust on a roadster? Ive seen someone run it under the frame (big no-no for me as I live in houston with potholes and speedbumps half the size of the car)... And I have heard that even modifying the passage in the frame-x for a 2.5" often resulted in frame damage and extensive (paint ruining) flex.

Any suggestions/direction/links would be much appreciated! Searching hasnt turned up much, and I've seen basically no useful photos (from a fab perspective)

Question.... how thick are the frame members and how deep?
Im pretty sure youd have to oval the pipe, then have substantial doubler wrappers cut and formed to be welded to reinforce the area, possibly from frame rail to xmember junction.
Im sure it can be done but wonder about the need.
If its turbo spool time youre concerned with, hou about an electric cutout?
Dan

JagerTex wrote: Mon Oct 29, 2018 2:08 pm Also... Question:

Has anyone managed to safely and successfully route a 3" exhaust on a roadster? Ive seen someone run it under the frame (big no-no for me as I live in houston with potholes and speedbumps half the size of the car)... And I have heard that even modifying the passage in the frame-x for a 2.5" often resulted in frame damage and extensive (paint ruining) flex.

Any suggestions/direction/links would be much appreciated! Searching hasnt turned up much, and I've seen basically no useful photos (from a fab perspective)

I spent a few hours trimming the frame to accept 3” tube. I suppose you could use some 3.25”.
download/file.php?id=4130&mode=view
download/file.php?id=4178&mode=view

JagerTex wrote: Mon Oct 29, 2018 2:08 pm Also... Question:

Has anyone managed to safely and successfully route a 3" exhaust on a roadster?

On Jon Frampton's SR22VET '67

Thank you David! And as always; Alvin, you're the man!

Definitely looks doable for me!

Oh man, so I found myself spiraling down another rabbit hole...

As many of us probably do, I was (compulsively) researching everything I have to look forward to with my Datsun. This project has it's own "bill of rights" (e.g. unalienable project goals and requirements)...

- Reliability: Starts when I turn the key, replacement parts availability, relative ease of maintainence, can drive across the country if I wanted to.

This likely means EFI, and a newer engine. While I have been excited to research swapping in a SR20DE/T, it seems to conflict with what just popped up on my radar...

- Economy: While I don't have a hard cap on total project cost, I will wind up doing the vast majority of the labor/fab myself, and for personal projects, I spend time not money.

Sr20/tranny combos (NA or Turbo) appear to be 3000-5000, not readily availavle to inspect in person... And missing their turbos (aiming for a s15 oem turbo). While this swap is common and known... Im not *too* scared of fabbing up something myself.

- Relative power goals: I'm looking for something in the 240-300rwhp range, keeping as lean of a power::weight as is realistic, not messing up balance *too* much.

SR20s have proven power formulas, good weights, aftermarket support... But would take some $$ to get to 300ish hp, and require most of the same supporting mods elsewhere at that level (rear end swaps etc)



So, here's what I'm looking at... 3rd gen Ecotec 2.0L LTU engines (2013-present)... Compact, readily available in pick-n-pull yards near me (engine+tranny/harness/accessories and manifold etc = $320, possibly less if I hit a half price day...

Weight appears to be a negligible difference (right around 400-450lbs). The power/torque delivery is crazy... 90% of peak torque availably from like 1700-5500rpm. Redline is 7k. Etc etc. Sounds fun. 272hp/295ftlbs peak...
Size doesnt appear to be much of an issue, granted I have way more research to do on it. (Always do before pulling the trigger)


Anyone have any immediate reasons it wont work?

JagerTex wrote: Thu Nov 08, 2018 12:39 pm Weight appears to be a negligible difference (right around 400-450lbs). The power/torque delivery is crazy... 90% of peak torque availably from like 1700-5500rpm. Redline is 7k. Etc etc. Sounds fun. 272hp/295ftlbs peak...
Size doesnt appear to be much of an issue, granted I have way more research to do on it. (Always do before pulling the trigger)


Anyone have any immediate reasons it wont work?

There are a few threads for the GM ECOtec swap in the Engine Swap section. The first running one that comes to mind is here, though NA:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=11113&hilit=ecotec



Only thing I can see being different is that the exhaust is on the passenger side:

Was just looking through that post

That looks like a 2nd gen ecotec 2.4? Trying to find good external measurements for them... as well as researching cost on associated bits (transmission, bellhousing/adapter plates etc.)

Honestly... I think I may have found a winner. Even if it craters later, if I can pick one up that cheap, it's worth a shot to me.