Roadster L6

[notoptoy]

Very, very creative and a heck of a cool idea. Your fabrication skills are fearless. One thought, depending on the stiffness of your webbing, that looks to be overkill - it looks like you have too much support and that this would be very firm. (I work at a medical furniture manufacturer). There are lots of foam choices that can create whatever feel you could want. I might suggest an HR foam (High Resiliency) for a base foam with a 1/2" or 1" topper of Memory foam. This will give you some great comfort "squish" and durability. I thnk the aluminum will look great, but again, will have no give so the foam choice can be pretty critical. Foams can be purchased in many different "types" and different firmness ratings. From our supplier a "50" is very firm, and a "30" is pretty soft. How much room did you figure for foam height? Finally the covering, fabric, vinyl or leather greatly affects the final feel. They all work together as a system of course. Very interested in seeing how these turn out!

[brea]

"I am waiting on the postman for some confor foam sheets for the cushioning"

Mike, awesome build and your seats fab looks excellent. You won't be disappointed using the confor foam sheets for seat padding. I just reworked my lower cushions last week using all three colors and it has made a world of difference in comfort.

[mlwebb]

It looks like I could drop your cushion on my seat - that's what I am planning. I ordered 1" medium and some 1/2" med, soft and extra soft from Dynamic Systems (same stuff, different brand). I figure my firm webbing will fill the firm foam purpose (not bottoming out).

[Mattk]

I like the hood. Looks like something wants to get out.

I'm thinking "Alien"

Wow nice work!!
Love the seats

Matthew

[mlwebb]

Quick update.
Work has been busy, roadster time limited, but some progress made, and new shiney bits and pieces collected. I'll post pics after I get a day or two in on it. Meanwhile, I have been contemplating my wiring diagram, and collecting wiring stuff. Since my roadster has been rather rearranged, I am starting from scratch.

The battery is going in the passenger rear fender well in the (former) trunk. I am thinking something like a larger powersports Deka, Braille sort of thing. I briefly considered the idea of two Optima 6v, one in each fenderwell, wired in series to make 12v, but decided it was a little fussy. Two fuse blocks, Bussman 8 circuit, one unswitched, one switched (80 amp relay, triggered by the accessory key position), will sit on the radiator enclosure, up against the rear firewall, easy to get to, just open the trunk lid. The nearby battery will have a 4 pole shutoff on the top/boot side of the rear firewall. A ford solinoid will only power the big cable to the starter at starting.

So my wiring diagram is attached. It still has some fuzzy areas, details to add, but I would appreciate comments or suggestions.

672600wiringb2.pdf

(same as the pic, text a little better)

Michael

[mlwebb]

Update time.
Despite the cold shop, have gotten some stuff done - mostly jumping around and not getting any one area finished.



There are indeed fiddlely bits that jump out when you open up the column switch, do so only where you can find little things. I got it cleaned up, replaced some crunchy wires, and put it back together quickly, so as not to forget how it went together (:



I had the splined bit, and didn't find a steering wheel adapter I liked, so made one out of a couple donuts of 1/4" aluminum, welded together. Will show pics of it and the turn signal when I get them installed, after the dash goes in for the last time.

The dash top I made by putting some plastic wrap on the metal dash top, and some cardboard on the edge, and laid a few layers of fiberglass and epoxy on it. Then a few coats of body filler, sanding, and a layer of 1/8" neoprene foam.



I tried covering it with some marine vinyl in espresso brown, but was not happy with how it laid down, so went with my plan b, some Allsport stretch vinyl in black, with brown top stitching.




The dash wiring harness is mostly done, the Speedhut gauges wired, and just got some led indicator and lights for the speedo and tach, which I had redone years ago when I pulled all the dash dial faces, painted them body color, redrawing the faces, which I had a local T-shirt shop silkscreen. So the speedo is original, the tach from a 260z, and the remaining guages new. (oil temp, oil press, water temp, fuel, voltage from Speedhut, plus an Innovate dual air/fuel guage, one for the front carb, one for the back).



Installed its neater than looks here, I really like the Techflex - easy and looks nice.



Just a quick look, it has to come back out to get the lower console front wired (ignition and all switches). The plywood is temporary, once wired I'll replace it with some black Paperstone - if ambitious I'll silkscreen some lables on it.

DIY Upholstery anyone?

The portable walking foot machine I had borrowed was not up to the task, so after much research, I bought a good one. It's a Consew p1255rb, a new version of their 255rb. Its a vertical axis, top loading bobbin with a 3/4 hp servo motor under the table. I haven't tried sewing 1/4" plywood with it, but hear that it will. I liked the fact that it had an oil pan and oil pump (:



The seat foam is shaped, or at least close. Seat heaters installed. I took one seat home and tested it through a few football and basketball games, and think it will comfortable on long drives.



I got a hide from the Leatherhidestore, called Restoration Distress Wicker. It's a top grain, analine dyed with a soft, slightly waxy feel, 39sq ft. Since I need two of every piece, first step was cutting it in half.



Then lay out the patterns. Accuracy is a good thing here, a constant 3/8 seam allowance and good patterns with reference marks will help when sewing.



My mother taught me to sew when I was young, and I've done a little upholstery here and there. But this is a little ambitious. I did a few trial pieces in vinyl to get the feel of it.
I am still unsure how to pattern the side pieces, so I started on the seat bottom and backs. First job was to cut out the leather, and a matching piece of 1/2" sew foam. The sew foam has a light mesh scrim on the back, I spray glued a piece of light denim to it for a little more strength. I am using bonded polyester thread, for strength and uv resistance. size 92 for hems, and 138 bobbin, and a thicker top stitch. (a size 15 in a different system, maybe 160 equivalant, and a 135/16 #22 chisel point leather needle. The various thread and needle systems are a bit mind boggling). After topstitching, I pulled the top thread through and tied it off in the back.
Michael

[notoptoy]

Stunning! I continue to be amazed at the quality of your work and your choices of material. This looks incredible. Congratulations.

[Akpilot]

My hats is off to ya, Upholstery is one of very few things I won't try and had to beg to get my seats done.

Ak

[Gregs672000]

Wow, cool stuff man!

[Lorna c]

very nice !

[Lorna c]

dude you just engineered your own car ! haha looks great . and I'm sure the detail is insane . nice .

[Mainer311]

I'm currently working to get your website unblocked at work so I can see your pictures.

[mlwebb]

Overdue for an update.
Catching up a bit-



A friend with a lathe and milling machine rebushed the carb throttle shafts (I installed a new toilet for him in exchance). I have some prior experience with these carbs, and did a few little mods, opening up the bore a couple millimeters on the air filter side, 'port matching' them to my home made air horn/filter mount (they get oval 4x6 K&N filters with a polished aluminum end cap), and thinning the throttle shafts at the butterflies. (can't find the pic at the moment). Still need to finish the heat shield.


The last two cylinders in the L6 tend run hot, so I ran some additional cooling (idea from a thread on Hybridz), on each side of the back intake I drilled into a coolant passage, tapped it for a -6 AN/npt fitting, and ran one hose to the thermostat housing, and one down to the coolant pipe to the radiator.

The other side plumbing, remote oil plumbing, etc. Here I am jumping the oil pressure fuel pump safety switch to get the fuel pump primed. (Today, getting close to firing her up).




And mid-wiring mess, and radiator fans:





The radiator is for a Jeep, chosen for its 11 1/2" tall, 35" wide dimension. Two Spal 10" fans are controlled by a temp sensor (not switch), just down from the thermostat, small adjustment box, and three relays, to run the fans in series for low speed, parallel for high (with a manual override switch on the console).

The second photo shows a battery disconnect switch, accessible inside the rear wall, and below it, a ford solenoid that powers the unfused starter cable (from trunk to engine), only when starting. In the center, on the trunk rear wall, is an 80 amp relay that switches one 8 circuit fuse block from the key, the other 8 block is unswitched. The battery...



....Is in the passenger side fenderwell, with some neoprene foam and a fabricated hold down. I'll get a pic when I get the tail light wiring bundled up.
I spent some time looking at battery options. This is an AGM for some large motorcycle or powersports thing, with a 4 1/2" width, which fits in the passenger rear fenderwell with room to spare (in my car, YMMV, I spread my rear end).

This is brake light switch version 3. The first bracket I made had the switch behind the pedal, so the spring loaded plunger was pushed in when you stepped on the brake, which turned out to be wrong, lights on except when the pedal pushed (:
So version two with the u-bolt on the steering column, but the angle needed help, version 3 works.



Still need to figure out how to get the two A/F guage sensors through the firewall, they need a large hole (a good inch clear). And there is a grommet hanging on the other side of the speedo cable. Not a very convenient area to reach.

More on the upholstery later, I have one seat done, got sidetracked by wiring.

And then there is the heater box, a sure sign of Compulsive Tinkering Disorder:




Inside is a Setrab oil cooler, the fans are Vantech Tornados, computer case fans for the serious overclocker. I am still debating speed control options. One way, tie all to a big rheostat, say 50watt, 10-15 ohm ( ? the fans on full draw 1 amp@12v each, 15.6 watts each). Another is a selector switch, and run one, two or three fans. Or a selector switch with resistors, .... These fans are not PWM friendly. The two 1 1/2" ports for defroster hose are ABS fittings from a garbage disposal drain. A cable will open the flap on top for cabin heat, otherwise it goes to defrost. The heater valve was randomly selected from ebay.

I still have a little wiring, most of it seems to work (:
It has gas, oil, and coolant in it.
I need to set the engine at tdc and set up the distributor (usb to laptop, plug in some advance curves), and I should be able to start it up. The starter works, I was a bit nervous about it as this transmission was not meant for this engine.

But still a bunch of stuff (finish upholstery, put the door stuff in the doors - glass latches, etc, carpet, music.
Oh, and finish making the gas pedal...
Michael

[notoptoy]

Major progress, this is exciting, can't wait to see this beast running and driving!

[Alvin]

Just sayin', what with all the heavy duty remote cooling and superb craftsmanship you've got!

https://www.ebay.com/i/282454554532?chn=ps&dispItem=1