Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

mchattod wrote:FWIW

If 16 oz in 4.5 qts yields 5000ppm zddp, then 5 qts would need 5*16/4.5= 17.78 oz

If 17.78 oz in 5 qts yields 5000ppm zddp, then 2 oz would yield 2*5000/17.78 = 562 ppm

Also, noticed "Not intended for passenger car use". Hmmm interesting..

Thanks! It looks like i was on the right track with my thinking. So essentially im running 1562 ppm zddp. I did a lot (mind numbing brain melting) of research on bitog and other internet sites regarding engine oils and zddp. My target ratio was between 1400-1700 ppm so it sounds like i should keep doin what im doin lol.

Btw the lucas disclamer is there because it should not be used in catalytic converter equipped vehicles. Most high zddp oils and additives have a similar warning.

Many years ago older gentleman in our area, who operated a commercial engine rebuild shop shared that the best engine oil came from oil sourced from Pennsylvania grade crude. He only used Pure (bought out by someone years ago) brand oils. His belief was their various lubricating properties permitting engine parts to minimize wear during high engine torque loading and/or periods of heavily stressed operation. Very successful business for many years who serviced a wide variety of customers from commercial semi & farm diesels to general public gas and drag, sprint, midget race engines. Don’t have any scientific facts/figures to support his claim and don’t remember any mention back then of Zinc or Phosphorus specific properties. I’ve always based my oil purchases on his recommendation from all those years ago: Pure, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Kendall, etc. Just my thoughts…….. Clyde

FWIW
A little more discussion about Brad Penn oil in this thread
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... cs/41977/1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers...... Clyde

I've been to that site a number of times. Some great info there. I have always been a fan of Dino oils.

clydedog wrote:FWIW
A little more discussion about Brad Penn oil in this thread
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... cs/41977/1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers...... Clyde

Those guys need a 12 step program...Bit obsessed.

I found this about zddp in oils.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35836

Good reading I am using number 31 on that list.

http://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rod-hi ... -motor-oil" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thought I'd pull up an older oil thread as I recall some folks using or considering oil designed for a diesel engine (like Rotella) in their Roadster... don't do it... it's not formulated correctly for how the engine operates. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HcJHJL5Ys ... MgZW5naW5l

Just an FYI for any who missed this or are getting their cars ready for summer...

Also, don't add anything (like more ZDDP) either as it messes with the oil's wear package chemistry/balance. Choose a good oil with a decent amount of ZDDP in the first place,10/30, 10/40 OR 20/50 (I personally like VR1 racing). I've tried Motorkote and can't say I experienced a difference but I don't think someone like Lake Speed (above researcher) has tested it...I'll ask him and hopefully he'll respond but I think I know what he'll say... don't do it. What has been found is that additives tend to interfere with how the oil works and usually results in more wear or problematic chemical changes.

FWIW