Front Wheel Bearing Failure

[pebbles]

Ouch. Too hot. Too tight.
Another option, if the puller wont do it, tape up the spindle threads 6 or more wraps, take a center punch and a ball peen, and punch the inner race, it will crack. Should then be loose enough to come out.

[bikermike]

Update:
It wasn't as bad as it could have been. Thanks to all that offered advice via posts and PMs. The outer bearing popped off the spindle by using an 8" pulley puller behind the hub. A couple of turns did it. Luckily I didn't need to try the more drastic or creative measures suggested.

It looks like when I put everything back together after my dust boot project in Decemeber I did not properly seat the hub and bearings. The outer bearing wasn't seated all the way back on the spindle. The inner ring ended up scoring a burr into the spot on the spindle where it ended up, a few millimeters away from where is should have been. The loose bearing ended up heating up the grease which became a "booger-like" gum and eventually the cage started to disintegrate. Or maybe the bearing went 1st due to improper loading and it was downhill from there.

I replaced the spindle. I probably didn't need to because once I got the original one off I polished the spindle where the outer bearing should rest with 600, 1200, and 2000 grit sandpaper and smoothed it out so a bearing could easily be put on and off. At least I still have a spare.

I took a look at the passenger side. The bearings were seated properly but were sounding rough. The grease around the outer bearing was normal consistency, however it had metal particles in it like fine glitter.

The inner bearings were in better shape on both sides but not sounding great either. I had already decided to replace all 4 anyway. I stopped by the auto parts store this morning. They could get me 4 "National" bearings by the afternoon. I really wanted to go with Timken or SKF or a known quality brand. The ones that I installed last time were "KML" bearings. http://www.kml-bearing.com/
I can explain the failure on the driver's side, but the fact that the other bearings weren't in great shape after only 4000 miles leads me to suspect the quality of KML.

I also noticed the Mobil 1 grease is really thick so maybe that had something to do with it as well.

So I am starting over. I popped out all the bearing cones from the hubs w/ a brass drift.
I went back to the auto parts store this afternoon thinking I'd pick up the National bearings as a fallback if I couldn't find anything else this weekend. When the guy brought them out I was pleasantly surprised to see 3 SKF bearing boxes with a "BCA" bearing label and p/n on top of the SKF label. I guess they were combining inventory of old stock at the warehouse. The smaller outer bearings were marked SKF-Germany BR30204 and the larger inner bearing was marked SKF-Brazil BR30206. I was also glad to pay $14 each instead of $30 I have seen online.

I am going to track down a matching SKF inner bearing tomorrow and put everything back together.
I am debating whether to try a different bearing grease. Any suggestions?

While I was under the car I decided to grease the zerks.
I also replaced the upper A-arm bolts with longer Grade-8 bolts that I could put a nut on the end of. The bolts had gotten a slight bit loose since my alignment in January. I only had 2" long bolts so couldn't get a nut on all of them with the stack of shims that were added to get some negative camber. Now I have 2.5" long bolts with nuts and lock washers. I hoping everything stays tight from here on out.

I should be back on the road on Saturday.

[pebbles]

I really like this stuff
http://www.titan-air.com/toolsresources ... Grease.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[bikermike]

It's back together and running well. I have 3 German SKF's and 1 Brazilian SKF.
I'll recheck the bearings in a few weeks after I get some miles on them. I think I have them adjusted properly, but I am a bit gun shy since installation error likely contributed to the early failure of the last set.

I ended up going with Royal Purple UPG grease. It is "buttery" vs. "tacky" like the Mobil 1, which makes it easier to pack with the bearing packer. It is a synthetic aluminum complex grease.
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-c ... PS_UPG.pdf

[fj20spl311]

I would check them after 50 miles to see if you have any movement.

If the races are not seated, 50 miles should do it.....you will be checking to torque on your lug nuts anyway......

[Linda]

Any thoughts on Mobil 1 grease for wheel bearings? I have used it in the zerks and wondered if it is acceptable for the wheel bearings and hub.
Getting some noise from front hub so I am doing it all.
Not very confident about replacing the races though. Autozone has a seal and bearing press tool in their loaner tools .
Is it very important to replace them if the races are good?
Linda

[Nissanman]

Wheel bearing grease should be HTB, High Temperature Bearing rated.
A press is not normally needed to do the job.
Not an expensive exercise and if you don't know when they were replaced last, well worth doing for peace of mind.
The races and outers are a slip fit and can be removed/installed with a brass drift and hammer and a broad screwdriver blade to remove the races.

[C.Costine]

I did mine two years or so ago. The races popped right out easily.

[MattC]

I just started mine yesterday. Got the drivers side done. Both inner and outer races were snug but popped out without much fanfare. I used a socket and long extension to tap, tap, tap them out from the opposite ends. Used the old races and a socket to get the new races started back in then tippy-tapped them gently into place with a flat ended punch/prybar.

Also, RockAuto had both bearings and seals...both sides cost me $44 total including shipping. I'll let you know if the "WJB" bearings are junk but the seals are Timken at least.

[Linda]

Thx for info. I thought about the socket idea with extension also, seems doable.
When tapping the races back in , is there a “lip” that they rest on to ensure they are in the right position? Otherwise how would you know exactly where they are supposed to be?
Linda

[MattC]

Yes, you’ll basically tap them in until they stop. You’ll be able to hear a difference in the sound of your taps once they have reached the end of their travel.

[todd lorber]

I took the old inner and outer races and ground a few thousandths off the outer diameters on the bench grinder. I then used them as drifts along with a dead blow hammer to press the new races into the hub. You have to make sure that they bottom out. Otherwise they will become loose after cornering. The ground down races will then slide back out since they are smaller than the hub. Linda, If you need to use the ground down races, I still have them at the warehouse.

As far as tightening, I usually use the end of needle nose pliers on the castle nut, and tighten as hard as I can, Then back off to the nearest slot that permits the cotter pin to go through the hole. It is pretty hard to overtighten when using needle nose pliers.

[fj20spl311]

Bigger slide hammer with a slide hammer wheel flange.

[Linda]

Guess I will attempt to remove and replace the races. Waiting for bearings to come in.
Todd, I got this bearing / seal loaner tool from Autozone, so think that will work for installation, but your idea sounds good also. Will check in if needed , thx.
On hubs it looks like 2 cutouts as you look from the backside thru the hub for each race. Not sure if what I see is the backside of the race that gets tapped out. Not sure I can get a pic to illustrate. Assuming that is where tapping occurs?

While cleaning up in prep for new bearings, I found that backing plate bolts were a bit loose , and lower ball joint was very loose... finger tight! Yikes.
In the manual in Tech Wiki the torque 3.5-4.9 kg-m or 25.3-35.4 ft/lbs is for the backing plate bolts. Then the upper ball joint is 4.5-5.5 kg-m or32-39.7 ft lbs.
The lower ball joint is 9.5-12.5kg-m or 68.71- 90.41. So I torqued to 75 with a new cotter pin.
Will definitely check other side for torque , and probably a good idea for others also.
Stay tuned
Linda

[MattC]

Yes, I saw the two cutouts also and that is where I started tapping to get them out.