Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

There's plenty of Roadster folks in both cities! This little car will indeed be a different experience than the V8 muscle! However, if you have the desire and the means I know someone who would love to really build an R engine to its potential. Its bore to stroke ratio makes for a high reving engine, but it needs some mods to get there. My engine guy and i were discussing it yet again the other day, and it would be fun!
Be careful, this little car may surprise you in how much you like it!

It looks like a fairly original '67.5 SPL (1600) from here. Nice find.
Let's add it to the registry:
http://www.311s.org/registry/input_registry.html

If it is paint code 666, it is a twin of mine.

Unlike the American cars of the era, there weren't lots of factory options on these cars - at least not the SPLs
Here is a period Road & Track article for the '67 SPL: http://www.311s.org/PDFs/RT%20May%20196 ... 201600.pdf

Some initial observations in addition to the comments already made:
-The seat upholstery looks like it has been redone at some point
-The dash seems to be sporting a pad or cap of some sort.
-Gauges, switches look all original.
-It seems to have most of the interior bits, some small things are missing
-Odd routing of positive battery cable to the starter
-I suspect it was repainted at some point - (not black behind the grille) - maybe that's why the door trim looks odd


The license plate is 1969 vintage so it may have spent the 1st couple of years elsewhere. I can't make out the text on the plate frame.

http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... te#p145161

Out of curiosity, I ran the VIN and plate on the DMV website:
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/FeeCalculatorWeb ... cleForm.do

Vehicle License Number: ZTC153 / Vehicle Identification Number: SPL31114169

It looks like the last registration expired in Dec 2002 and it came up with $654 in fees and penalties to get it registered in CA.

As you are likely taking it elsewhere it may not be an issue for you. If for some reason you intend to register it in CA, factor that into your negotiations if you choose to pursue a deal. Also factor in that if the car has been sitting since 2002, you'll likely need a full rebuild of all the hydraulics. Depending on the condition of calipers, cylinders, etc you can get to $1000 pretty quickly.

Do you know any history on the car from the seller?

Some reading:
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... ilit=guide
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... ilit=buyer
http://www.datsun.org/roadster/resource ... guide.html
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... uyersGuide
http://www.datsunroadster.com/misc_page ... _guide.htm
http://www.datsuns.com/roadster/roadsterguide.htm

Good luck. Perhaps a local forum member can help you assess the car if you are serious about buying it. Is the car still in CA?

Opinions vary, but 67.5 1600 is the most bang for the buck. Flat dash and dual brake cylinder, less money than a 67.5 2000, only downside is there are alot of things that are year specific, like the black dual gauges and some other parts, but they are available,
Depending on condition and what's under the paint, it can be a great value.

Either way, factor in the DMV fees to the price, as local buyers will too., the seller is in California, so it's to your advantage if you take it out of state.

Man, you guys are almost as good as Carfax!

Thanks guys, This is much better then Carfax! Thank you for all of the info, and good reading from the links Mike. If I do end up getting it, if definitely wont be registered in Cali, so I think I'm ok on that front.

As far as history goes, I have minimal background (and what I have is from a 3rd party). Original owner car, it 'recently' had all of the metal work done, has been sitting for a long time. I did notice that there was an oil change sticker on the windshield that said something like 2002 for next oil change, and 143,000 miles... So, probably has been sitting since then (who knows when the 'metal work' was done).

What would you guys pay for it??

Sight unseen 5000 tops. A solid reliable drivetrain could add another 5000 to that.

Sitting since 02 means hydraulics all around probably... Not complicated, but time consuming. Check the wheel cylinders first so you don't soak the pads and ruin them right out of the gate... Most if not all parts readily available.

The engine, will likely turn over with some VERY minor freshening. They are like tractors(forklifts more accurately) and hard to kill. Drain the gas tank (a 30 min job) and inspect from in the trunk (another 15 min) to make sure she isn't too corroded in there (check for cracks in the trunk floor above the tank strap attachment points well you are there). Easier to drop the tank (1 hr max.) and clean it out properly rather than sucking everything into an otherwise functional system. Saves major troubleshooting after. If you are impatient, and the tank looks crappy, disconnect fuel line between tank and pump and run from a jerry can. Crank over a couple times with high tension lead removed from coil after checking fluids (including dash pots in SU's)to get some oil up top - or pull the valve cover and splash some on top. A quick look at the linkage and the routing of the cables for the carbs to make sure everything is intact and operating smoothly is in order too as a hung up choke will make it run like a bronc. With the air cleaner off, their likely was a carb issue of some sort, so don't be surprised if she doesn't sit into a perfect idle right away... Lots of guys on here can sort SU's with their eyes closed, and their are TONNES of SU tips in the wiki. Worst case, you can buy a running 1600 powertrain from a swapper on here for $300-500 any day of the week...

And if you get jammed up, Cooter and Daisy could hook you up and tow you over to one of the other good ole' boys round them parts...

Gregs672000 wrote:Man, you guys are almost as good as Carfax!

I even have the Fox!

Rule of thumb seems to be:
Establish your total budget, and if it covers a complete running car, buy a car you can drive home. Figuring on a $7000.00 budget, for example, I'd rather drive the $7000.00 car home than spend $4000.00 for a car I can't test drive and hoping for $3000.00 or less to get it done. Granted, it doesn't always work this way, you may buy this for $4-5000.00, spend 1-2000.00 and be done, but it's not as likley.

Best case, nobody has tried and failed to start the car and all the crap is in the tank not the carbs, or better yet the tank is empty. Assume that anything hydraulic will at least need to be looked at, worse case rebuilt/replaced on brakes and clutch, worse worse case with new parts up to about $1000.00. Fuel system will need cleaning and filters, may as well put in floats and new bowl gaskets as you clean it up, $75.00

My biggest worry is what's under the paint, without photos of before durring and after bodywork, it's a guess. Look underneath the rockers and in the fenderwells for signs of repairs, make your best guess from there.

Datsun.David wrote: And if you get jammed up, Cooter and Daisy could hook you up and tow you over to one of the other good ole' boys round them parts...

I always thought the trick was to get Daisy to push the car??

Or, she could tow it with this,,,

Nice looking find, as a Mopar owner myself buy this little car. They don't take up as much room as them old hot rods and just as fun when you want to save a little at the pump.

dbrick wrote:

Gregs672000 wrote:Man, you guys are almost as good as Carfax!

I even have the Fox!

Rule of thumb seems to be:
Establish your total budget, and if it covers a complete running car, buy a car you can drive home. Figuring on a $7000.00 budget, for example, I'd rather drive the $7000.00 car home than spend $4000.00 for a car I can't test drive and hoping for $3000.00 or less to get it done. Granted, it doesn't always work this way, you may buy this for $4-5000.00, spend 1-2000.00 and be done, but it's not as likley.

Best case, nobody has tried and failed to start the car and all the crap is in the tank not the carbs, or better yet the tank is empty. Assume that anything hydraulic will at least need to be looked at, worse case rebuilt/replaced on brakes and clutch, worse worse case with new parts up to about $1000.00. Fuel system will need cleaning and filters, may as well put in floats and new bowl gaskets as you clean it up, $75.00

My biggest worry is what's under the paint, without photos of before durring and after bodywork, it's a guess. Look underneath the rockers and in the fenderwells for signs of repairs, make your best guess from there.

A quick check would also be the floorboards. The carpet, if close to original, snaps down and is easy to pick up. Since it is a convertible, water can settle on the floor and give you a rust problem. Not necessarily deadly but a price bargaining chip. Roadsters have rubber drain plugs on the floor for that reason.

Thanks guys...will keep you posted on what happens!!

67.5 without a doubt!