Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Rhänne wrote:Hey guys,
thanks for your posts, they´re very interesting!

I find out how to adjust camber.
Could castor adjust by different shims on left and right screw - I mean on the upper wishbone, not driver and passenger side of course
How to adjust Toe?

How many mm of shims do you use for -1°

Thanks!

Fwd and aft screw, yes.

You will have to determine existing angle prior to adding or deleting shims to change the angle. Not all cars are the same.

Thanks for your da** fast response!

okay toe was to easy to be thinking about ^^

I added 2 simple washers on each, 4-5mm in summary.



Before adding these it looked like positive camber and now 0° or little negativ
I need a digital mechanic´s level!!!!!!

Is there another way to change camber?

Rhänne wrote:
I need a digital mechanic´s level!!!!!!

Is there another way to change camber?

Yes, a front end collision or a really big hammer will usually do it!

Sorry, could not resist.

Rhänne wrote: I added 2 simple washers on each, 4-5mm in summary.

Is there another way to change camber?

LOOKING GOOD.......

I would suggest either longer bolts with a second lock nut, lock plates or safety wiring.....

The adjustment (shim) bolts have a habit of coming loose........

@Garth:
But doesn´t I change all parameters (Camber, toe, Caster) with this method of "alignment"

Back to topic:
Normally you slide the upper arm to the inside, but this is limited by the top of the damper, isn´t it?
I thought on something to bring the under arm wider outside...



Yes, safety first of course
But the car isn´t drivable at the moment.

Rhänne wrote: Normally you slide the upper arm to the inside, but this is limited by the top of the damper, isn´t it?|

There is the possibility of A arm interference with the shock tower, at full rebound.
You could increase the height of the upper bumpstop, limiting rebound travel

Make sure the ball joints arent binding at full compression and rebound after shimming. Easiest way to do that is to remove the swaybar, spring and shock.

I haven't followed this thread for it's entirety, but here is what I use to play with wheel alignment settings: -

My local wheel alignment "expert" adjusted toe, but couldn't be bothered to play with the caster and camber settings.
Too hard cause it required time and shims, neither of which the bozo had.
Anyhoo, I looked at he printout of the specs. and decided to have a play for myself.
I was able to adjust the camber back into spec quite easily using this tool.
It sure did take time but I don't charge me for my time
It is magnetic and sticks to the hub where the grease cap is fitted.
Comes with full instructions so it isn't rocket surgery.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Longacre-782 ... 51b6ea71d1

PS
Use shims or washers with one side cut out.

They slip into place without the need to remove the bolt

One other item to note. Check these bolts often as they are know to come loose. Once they do, and you lose a shim, watch out.

A thread on the upper bolts:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... +arm+bolts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Those shims are nice unless the bolts get loose and then you lose them, so something to be said for washers. I found both on my car
Linda

That is a generic pic of shims.
The ones I used on the car had the ends of the legs turned up at 90deg.
That gives them a locking effect underneath the upper spindle.

Are the alignment shims readily available?

Linda

Yes, there are 1000's of cars with wishbone type front suspension and they all use the shim method to achieve alignment.
I picked up a bag of assorted thickness shims on ebay, years ago.
Why my "expert" didn't have any is anyone's guess.
He just didn't want to spend the time and effort to do it, so I decided to tackle another job which I had not done before
It's easy enough, just time consuming.

This is what was on my roadster.




Think I would adjust it with shims, measure it and make one piece spacers of aluminum - How often do you really change it?

With longer bolts Loctite will do the job

Yes, I agree, once set I doubt it would require changing.
Toe is more likely to be adjusted.
The fasteners are probably long enough to handle the shims and have lock washers on them but a thread locker wouldn't hurt.
I needed shims on the RHS only as the specs on the LHS were OK.

With the replacement of all my front suspension parts I had planned on putting all the alignment shims back exactly as I found them with the old parts.
When I pulled the old parts off I found this set up on three bolts and the fourth only had the thick washer:

http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/tputl ... sort=3&o=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

(I cannot find a single one of these missing thin slotted washers amongst all my loose fasteners. Since it measures just over 1mm I am thinking the shop can make up for it if necessary.)

The only difference between the two sides was, on the driver's side, I found actual alignment shims that were .75mm and 1.69mm on the rear bolt and 2x 1.69mm on the front bolt.

Since I am replacing literally everything, including new wider wheels and tires, should I even bother putting the actual shims back? I am thinking to just let the shop that does my alignment put them (back) if and where needed to get the measurements I want.

Whattayall think
Thanks!
tim