Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Linda, alot of people shy away from doing u-joints, or try it and screw them up completely. Count this as an accomplishment.

Thank you Dave.
I never thought about them either, but a persistent vibration finally made the lightbulb go off....ujoints.
Those tools they lend at Autozone make it easier too.
Hope others are encouraged to try. Give yourself plenty of time. Watch some film LOL
Linda

By comparison - in flexing the u-joints on a spare drive line - there is no play in any direction (up/down/forward/backwards/left or right) - but with Linda's new u-joints installed - there is a smoothness that is hard to define.
Just smoother I suppose. Zero resistance.
And her new u-joints come with zerks, which can only be a good thing.
Prices for OEM (based upon OEM part NO) run about $54+ - NAPA is about $12.95.
Given the apparent ease of replacement (NOW that we KNOW how to do it) - certainly something to seriously consider (especially given the condition of two of the branches of one of her joints) - which were destined to fail - eventually - but functioned essentially well.

From the WIKI:
"U-joints, Napco 1052/1-0027 available at Advance auto for $9, NAPA part# UD RL 1460 $8, Precision part #391 $19 "
Should be "Neapco"
Also Duralast 1-0027-6.99 Autozone
Moog/Precision 391- 11.76- Rockauto
Compatibility chart shows these were used on many Datsuns.
Best # is 391.
Linda

Driveline with new u-joints installed. I notice increased smoothness over Peter's spare driveline. Very happy with this repair.
One question , should the zerks be balanced? I wondered if they would affect anything.

Linda

Are they on the caps or in the crosses? Either way, they drill a hole to put it in, so solid metal out, hollow metal in, probably about equal, especially on the crosses close to centerline. On a very high horsepower car, you be sure to put the grease fitting on the side being compressed under torque, but on these cars, not an issue.

I should try it with the right tools someday, usually I use sockets, vise small hammer and big C clamp, but have done it trailside on a Chevy Blazer with only slip joint pliers, screwdriver tree branch and a clawhammer. That wasn't pretty.

Linda wrote: I pressed out the ujoint cap that was giving me trouble and sure enough when I pulled the cap there were 2 needle bearings laying at the bottom so that's why it did not go on before.

Now that's a first..........LOL................

Linda wrote: Thanks as always for the advice and help!
Once you get the hang of the tools and all it is not very hard to do. I thought that the videos were useful to see also.
Linda

I usually use a hammer, socket and "C" clamp.........I knew you could do it..........
Next on the list is setting up the rear gears........LOL.........

fj20spl311 wrote: Next on the list is setting up the rear gears........LOL.........

Nice Phil, skip right past rebuilding transmissions and steering boxes to the Holy Grail of PITA

It shows his confidence in me....or Youtube

Linda

dbrick wrote:

fj20spl311 wrote: Next on the list is setting up the rear gears........LOL.........

Nice Phil, skip right past rebuilding transmissions and steering boxes to the Holy Grail of PITA

IIRC, Linda had her trans out and apart already.......Steering gear boxes......very rare and easy repair that should have been done with the ball joints.....

Well then, it's next on the list.

I've done u-joints on lots of different vehicles, and I found that a bench vise works great. Use a small socket to press with, and a large socket on the other side to act as a cup. It's easier with two people so that someone can hold the other end of the driveshaft while you do the pressing.

For those not able to borrow the ball joint/ ujoint press tool, Harbor Freight has a 2.99 socket set on sale---perfect to pound away on while doing the ujoints LOL

Linda