Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I completely agree with all of you. Its not that they reject crits - they listened to each of the suggestions and went into an explaination of why they did what they did. I'm going to fax over the updated list tonight. A pretty engine won't be pretty unless the thing works.

I think I did a bad job explaining the carb overflow / eyelet issue to the shop. They didn't really have any idea of what I was talking about. The other roadster they have in the shop now does not even have the eyelets...

I wanted to be sure I'm on the same page as all of you. In the pic below, I circled what I think we're talking about. Is that right?




The lines that are there now were like that when I got the car. If the eyelets belong on the other side and the overflow tubes feed through those - then it looks like the tubes will be placed near the exhaust manifold. Is this correct? The shop said that is dangerous.

At this point the engine is still unfinished - they have not payed any attention to the overflow tubes, which accounts for why they point at the engine. What is the correct path of the overflow tubes? Can anyone describe in detail since I don't have the manuals? Thanks

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Mark - Thanks for the link to the image and the explaination of the why the tabs are needed. Also, thanks for pointing out the possible problem with the head bolts. I gave the shop a list of all the datsun vendors when the project started as a suggestion for a place to look for parts. They believed they could get any needed parts from other sources for much much less and so far its working out. My budget for the project is very limited. As easy as it would be to just go to one of the vendors here - it would bring my project over budget too quickly.

I do admit the engine looks pretty with that blue - but I never said and they never said it was perfect. I posted the images looking for feedback and suggestions, which many were able to help out.

You are right in saying that they are not an expert. I never said they were an expert at anything. Congrats on your 20+ years experience with roadsters - congrats on owning almost every year and model. If this forum is made for people with years of experience working on roadsters then I guess you would prefer that I stop posting. Congrats on making someone new to roadsters and new to cars very very unwelcome.

Okay, everyone, let's all take a deep breath....hold it....keep holding....now let it out slowly. One more time....deep breath....hold it....let it out slow....

Ahhhhhhhhh......feel the love?

Nathan, I don't think Mark's intent was to make you feel unwelcome. I believe Mark cited his many years of roadster experience and ownership to qualify his comments. Don't know about you, but I sure do not like to reinvent the wheel nor get nasty surprises. Don't confuse the tone w/ the contents.

Everything people have pointed out has been related to NOT having your brand new engine break or burn. We're on your side...really.

Like I said earlier, from what you have told us about your engine shop, I wouldn't use 'em either. HOWEVER!!!! it's your car and your money. As long as you're happy, that's what counts.

I am personally amazed at how welcome everyone has made me feel here and on the newsgroup, and I just got involved in this community in June. With the help of all, I hope to attend the Shasta 2005 run. Car won't be pretty, but it'll run solid.

Just want to state that nobody is rejecting the suggestions. The carb overflow was something the shop has not yet addressed at all, which is why they were a little annoyed when I brought it up. They did not point the tubes at the engine block - that is the way they came. Perhaps they were clogged many years ago and the previous owner snipped the tubes with the intent on fixing it? Who knows.

Also, becasue of my lack of knowledge about the parts in questions I think I did a bad job explaining the issues. Now that I know more I was able to explain it better the second time around. I value everyone's knowledge of these engines very much and really appreciate all the feedback. I also value the restoration shop's overall knowledge. I feel you can hand them a car in a not so great condition and get it back working like new. I went into think knowing very well that they have never worked on my specific engine.

Can anyone please point out what picture the head bolts are in or where they are located?

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With the head bolts - Are you saing:

1. that one of the head bolts was made to be longer and belongs in the back corner

or

2. they are all supposed to be the same length and one seems to be longer - which may casue problems.



With the carb overflow - I found this pic that shows the path of the tubes. Its from a parts index published in 1968. I marked what looks to be the tubes in red, but I can't quite follow the one on the right:



Is this right? Can anyone tell me where the rest of the tube on the right goes?

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Mark - Thanks for the call and the info. I'll relay the info over.

Just got off the phone with the restoration shop. They were aware of the longer bolt and the correct placement. They will also double check to see that it is in the correct position. We went over the overflow tubes - so that is taken care of as well.

He mentioned that an electronic starter will be installed. He has one that he always uses. I faxed him over the info for the El Dizzy to compare. I'll read over the info as well so I understand the differences.

Take a look at the picture in the album in the project gallery (linked at top of forum index page). The R16 engine top view shows the long head bolt which must be used with the engine lift hook (or additional washer thickness) to take up the extra bolt length.

Hope this helps.
Ray B.

What year is that engine? Mine is a 68. I pulled up an image of the engine just before it was taken to the restoration shop (see below) and there was no hook on it then. I'll be sure to mention to add washers to make up for the thickness.

Is there any type of a test that can be done to ensure that the head is on tight? Thanks for pointing that out.

Hey, Nathan, hope you took the opportunity whilst the engine & tranny are out of the way to clean up and detail the engine bay so that nice & shiny new engine will have a nice & shiny new home.

Nathan:
The engine shown is a 1968 R16 (non-smog).
Your picture has a R16 smog type engine , so it might of been swapped at some time, or the 68 US model was smog type, or your chassis #is above spl311-27001.
The theads in the block should be cleaned out before bolting down the head to prevent the all head bolts from binding and giving a false torque.
If the longer bolt is placed into the wrong threaded hole or if its proper hole is not cleaned out to the full thread depth, it will bottom out and give you a false torque reading because you would be applying torque to the bolt only, and not sandwiching the head to the block.
If installed incorrect the head will develope a leak or appear on 1st start.
The head must be re-torqued after about 300 miles of break-in period.

Ray B.