Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I started to write this and lost it somewhere so if it shows up twice, my bad...

Anyhow, it was 15 years ago and I think I pulled the cable out WD 40'd it to clean it, let it dry, then squirted as much graphite as I could muster into the housing, worked it back and forth until it was buttery smooth, and then scientifically adjusted the latch until I got that satisfying thud from 6"...

Worked great until I sold it last year...

Or, I'm pretty sure you could find something in the Wiki about rebuilding the cable itself. A bike cable should work fine...

dw

Garm wrote:How did you rework the stock latch? Mine is sooo stiff.

The latch or the cable? My cable was all twisted up under the dash. (I assume for knob alignment), Took it out untwisted it, lubed the cable (M/C cable lube) and it works well now. Latch comes out easy, clean it really really good and relube as well. Pin spring is too stiff IMO.

^ yeah the pin spring is stiff. I'll try a cleaning and lubing, and then decide whether to disappoint datsun.david or not.

No, hood pins don't affect my racing class. Yes, my car has had more holes drilled in the floors to make swiss cheese look solid. Its had at least 3 roll bars in it, and 4 or 5 sets of seats in it. I've since welded most of the extra holes up. As for the holes in the cowl area, I do drive the car in the rain from time to time and I don't want to introduce more areas for it to leak.

When you stop and think about it, hood pins take longer to open than just pulling the release. Yes the cable can get stiff, and hard to pull, but a little lube goes a long way. If you pull the whole latch apart and clean it, things move much more freely.

Will

The Datsun has a safety hood - front hinge - if the latch fails then the hood stays down at speed vs windscreen hinged hoods will fly up when it lets go !

So no need

ok, so we've come to the (hopefully humorous) summary.

1. Hood pins serve no functional purpose on this car.
2. They look bad and you have to drill holes in a perfectly good hood and cowl.
3. They let water in.
4. Don't do it?

What if it's this or a large hood scoop?

RFR wrote:Just drill some holes, install some bolts and top them off with these fancy chrome spike nuts. Along with some nice sturdy chrome washers, your hood is locked down! You have to unbolt it to release. That sucker wont fly off.......no way! And you get to keep your spike theme.

http://www.ballerbolts.com/chspnu.html

I wonder if they make those to fit lug nuts. Sort of a Mad Max, don't get near my car, style.

That company only offers metric, I think. My lug nuts are buried inside the wheels, but I do have spike valve stem caps.

2 front tow hooks. Check
2 hood pins. Check
2 hood pins on trunk lid. Check

showing "what you got"
priceless

Ps 1 have a backup cable (speaker wire) attached as well for when the hood cable breaks - as they do - so you can still open to refit - sure it's been mentioned before !

Hood pins are for Monzas. Your car is not a Monza. Ergo, no hood pins.

Larger hood scoops are for Monzas...

Awwww, forget it. Do whatever you want. As long as it is U20 underneath, you get my respect...

^ Thanks for the clarification.

I guess that means I have to get this first:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Chevrolet- ... 302wt_1168" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Garm wrote:How did you rework the stock latch? Mine is sooo stiff.

Too easy for a joke.

Seriously, lust lubricate the latch and cable. Get a cable lube tool if needed. All mine were super easy to operate, even the parts pigs. You can also have a little less tension on the latch by loosening the "spike" on the hood 1 turn.
Hood pins are a PITA,and you have to walk around the car to reach the other

I didn't even know they made a 65 Monza...

I just remember the 80's ones that looked like a Pinto on roids...

dw

Datsun.David wrote:I didn't even know they made a 65 Monza...

dw

I owned a few...always wanted a stinger!