Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

garths311 wrote:I have a large box of ziplocks and a sharpie . I plan on labeling as I go and a few large storage bins as well .

This is exactly what I have been doing. Ziplocks and a sharpie. Works great, even for groups of bolts that belong to one particular thing. I have a large tub for storage and a small tub for degreasing things.

Baby steps . It looks like the water neck is starting to give up the ghost . Part of the gasket is coming out on the drivers side! But the other bolt still has a death grip . I've switched from a dead blow to tapping with 3lb sledge

I went to long bolts rather than studs. That way you can get the tower free easier. Oh, lot's of anti seize.

RFR wrote:I went to long bolts rather than studs. That way you can get the tower free easier. Oh, lot's of anti seize.

What size?

I don't remember, but once you get the studs out, just take one to your local osh or ace hardware and they are easy to match up.

My latest method to remove the water tower goes like this.

Find a valve spring compressor. Remove the very top of the thermostat housing, the piece that holds the cap.
Place a VERY strong piece of flat steel across the tower studs. Hook the valve spring compressor under the ridges of the tower with the center of the puller against the piece of steel bridging the bolts. Slowly crank on the puller. A couple of turns, then tap sides with hammer. A couple of more turns, tap with hammer. This will get the tower to lift up about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. You can then remove the puller and use various leverage under the tower. Should come up easy by then.

It took me about 30 minutes to get the tower off after I figured out how to do it.

I've attached a crude diagram, to give you an idea.

thanks for the idea and nice drawing lol

so just finished getting the ignition switch off , dropped the steering column down for better access , and used my dremel to cut slots and viola flat head screwdriver and its off , then re assembly man getting the column back up is fun with that loose backing plate , now the steering is free! I still need to drop the car off the jacks because it is sitting to close to the wall for me to access the oil plug , clutch slave etc..


now my next question is how do I get the ignition apart so I can codes for a new key?

well i guess i figured out how to get the switch apart , but i cant seem to get the slug out

Still no luck getting off the water tower . I tried a puller from auto zone but its a pos the c clips popped off so I can't apply any force. I'm gonna try another type

garths311 wrote:well i guess i figured out how to get the switch apart , but i cant seem to get the slug out

There should be a small pin on the periphery of the barrel close to the front. I believe that keeps the cylinder in place.

I think you have to push the pin in, while rotating the cylinder to the start position.

Well it looks like I will be cutting this sob off because I used another puller and it snapped off the ear

I dig that valve compression tool idea that east media posted..thanks for that. It took my well over 16 hours to get my water neck squared away after breaking the stud and ezout off I posted a long thing on that. Just take your time it'll come off. Heat works as well sometimes. Flame wrench

Well I just ordered a z waterneck and a inline filler so I won't have to replace my radiator . I think this is the week to pull my Carbs and give them a once over . BTW can I just dip these Carbs or are there seals that might be damaged by soaking?