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Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 6:53 pm
by Dave
I'm 3,000 miles from home in Boston at the moment so I can't check mine, but if I remember correctly, the red LED on the ECU does not light up during normal running. When you put the ECU in diagnostic mode by turning the screw all the way one direction, holding it for 2 seconds, then back all the way (all while the ignition is on), it will begin to blink fault codes for you. Now would be an excellent time to do a little surfing and find the list of faults on line for the SR20 ECU. I can tell you off the top of my head, you want to see code "55" as indicated by 5 short flashes 5 long flashes. This indicates "all clear", no active faults.
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:34 pm
by csappleman
Dave,
It turns out I do not have a 240sx diagram I have a (I think) 180sx s14-s13 diagram that does not have correct number of pins, wire colors, etc. So when you get back if you could email me that
csappleman@yahoo.com that would be great. Thanks for all the info as well it has been a big help.
Casey
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:48 pm
by TR
You'll need to find the diagram that matches your ecu (S13 SR20DET, right?). That diagram will be the only one that matches, the S14 and 240sx are all different...TR
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:40 pm
by csappleman
Congradulations guys/gals you have helped me to getting my sr20det s13 motor started today November 30th at 5:00pm. I owe the whole success to all the help I have had on this forum. As you can see this has made me quite excited since this was a major obstacle before today.
Thanks again.
Casey
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:48 pm
by csappleman
Wow I butchered that spelling of congratulations a little bit.
Thanks again.
Casey
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 1:41 pm
by Dave
Way to go Casey!
Do you have a fax number? The 240SX wiring diagrams and ECU pinouts I have are all printed. No electronic copies.
One more thing. If you haven't done so already, go to
www.zeroyon.com and download the S14 factory shop manual! It's not an exact match to the S13 DET but it's darn close and has helped me solve a lot of little problems.
Dave
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 2:45 pm
by csappleman
Dave,
I don't have a fax machine and luckly stumbled on the diagram and manual yesterday at a local shop. Also do you have any tips on what to look for or what to do in preparing to put the engine in the car for a mock up and how to go about the mounts needed? Thanks again.
Casey
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:20 pm
by Dave
Yeah, I've got a ton of tips on that. I take it you are putting the engine and trans in with the body on the frame, correct? TR did his swap with the body off. Totally different experience!
Send me a PM (not an e-mail as I rarely check my hotmail account) with your e-mail address. I'll send you some tips along with some pictures on the engine install and engine mounts.
Dave
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 6:20 pm
by TR
You can see a lot of what I did in the engine swap section:
http://www.311s.org/tech/engine/swaps.html
Dave - Did you really swap yours with the body on the frame!? TR
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 9:56 am
by Dave
Sure did. I thought you knew that. I'm convinced that's the way to go. Yes, it's more difficult to notch out the X member and swinging the engine and trans in and out over the fenders 5 million times is a bit unnerving, but other than that, I think it's the way to go. No guessing about interference issues with the body and the engine, trans, exhaust, etc. You can see right where everything needs to be. Seems to me you're either going to be swinging the engine and trans in and out a ton of times or lifting and lowering the body off the frame a bunch of times. Take your pick. I got to the point where I could have the engine and trans go from sitting on the garage floor to sitting in the engine bay with the mounts (engine and trans) bolted up in under 10 minutes. Taking it out I was under 5.
The huge benefit of the body off route you took is that it gives you a chance to really clean up the frame, suspension, front end, brakes etc.
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 12:00 pm
by TR
No, I hadn't heard. Yes, I did have the body on and off and the engine in and out a bunch of times, but I really can't imagine working in the tunnel to make the tranny area mods. Also access to many area over the fenders seems like it would be back breaking for an old man like me...TR
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 1:08 pm
by Dave
The X member mods were not that bad if your a skinny guy like me! You can get right in there above the X member with the plasma cutter and go to town. I can guarantee you your welds on the X member are 10 times better than mine though. There just isn't room to get in there with the MIG and a welding helmet on and do good work. You end up welding with your arm extended out all the way into the trans tunnel. You can't get right on top of the weld and be sure it's a quality job. I ended up having to weld an inch, wait for the smoke to clear, then crawl up in there to make sure I was on track.
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:18 pm
by TR
I didn't have the luxury of a plasma cutter...Without it, I bet the cutting would be impossible!
Building the structure and lifting the body is probably about a wash with having to work in those conditions, though...But at my personal body size, I'm thinking car body off is better...TR