Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I like the "turn it up, and soak" idea, I'd start with a mild solvent (rubbing alcohol, for maybe 2 hours), then a shot of electrical contact cleaner, then a 1-2 day lube with something viscous like Mrvel Mystery oil or something like that.
On my old Subaru, this happened but the tumblers locked they key in (with the car running, but that is another story), I eventually unscrewed the back of the lock and found the whole back came off, and I drove it for 2-3 more years using a squatty screwdriver as the key.

When my ignition locks up I am going to detach from the key and just install a pushbutton, like them new Hybrids!

Well, well. Key issue solved!!
Thanks for the suggestions.

OK, so what what was the issue and what solved it??

Using the right key perhaps?

Well, I believe Sid is going to be laughing his ass off on this one.

I got a long jewelers screwdriver and did the upside down trick with some WD 40.Using the screwdriver I manipulated all the tumblers and got them all loose and moving properly.





Then.........................









I found the right key.

I had been using the trunk key to try to work the ignition all this time


have fun with that folks. The laugh is on me.








Next onto brakes.
Is there any truth to the rumor that a 240 clutch master is virtually the same as the 66 brake master? I know there is a big difference in the price between the 66 and the 240. If the unit is compatible, I could just switch my 66 reservoir over to the 240 unit.

Every once in a while, even a blind pig finds a truffle! Glad to hear that you got it going! Even with my smart ass comments....

Yup, live and learn. See, the problem was this;

The ignition key on the 66 looks almost like my gas cap key........It had been so long I didn't even suspect it might be the one.

So like a dummy I used the key that "looked" right but wasn't.

But I DID end up with a smooth lubricated ignition tumbler.

Just make sure you use the correct brake key.

Garm wrote:Just make sure you use the correct brake key.

Yeah, ain't that right! When I get to the electrical systems, remind me to check the turn signal fluid too.


Intake manifold just came off. Time for a good engine bay cleanup, not to mention all the wiring on that side. Might as well make sure that is good.

Besides, I cannot get the brake master off with the carbs in the way..

Maybe I'll throw up some pics, that's better than reading my drivel.

Pics. They're not pretty. Boy oh boy got some cleaning to do.

But there is a motto. "if it's dirty clean it, if it's broke, fix it, if you can't fix it replace it, if it's ugly paint, powdercoat or plate it.

If you can get it apart, I would try a rebuild, or send it out for rebuild/relining. Clutch master does not interchange, as far as I ever heard. Key thing is funny I ever mention the half hour I spent trying to get a car to start after I forgot to put the rotor in?

Hmmm... I worked on a buddy's MG Midget once and got it running with the distributor cap sitting loose on the distributor. Made a racket but was funny! On the keys, it is easy to get them mixed up if you have more than one for a car.

Roman, there's a set of brake lines on Ebay, he takes offers.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-196 ... 2eb8a6eb62

Thanks for the heads up, Dave. Much appreciated.



Well today I successfully got off the brake line and master. Right now I have it soaking in Wd 40 to try to unfreeze it. Once I can get it disassembled, we'll see if it is re-build able. As of right now it's frozen solid, like someone welded the piston. A day or two soaking will tell the tale.


Next up.
How in the hell do you get the stock 67.5 exhaust manifold off????

I got it off all of the studs except the front one. There is absolutely no clearance on either the motor side or the frame side.

I'm thinking I have to unbolt the motor and trans mount and jack up the motor some to get the necessary clearance.

Geesh, headers wiggle in and out.

This one I want to remove because I have a header and this is an uncracked original manifold with all the brackets. selling it could help to advance this project a bit.

So how do you get these off?

Cheers,
Roman

Did you have the bracket to the motor mount removed,or is the front stud the problem? I usually end up with a box wrench to get them off