Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

That's a good quality tool...too bad it was no match for my Pitman arm...but it did work to pull the steering arm from my idler gear, which was also incredibly tight.

The real issue is undoing the nut.
Once free, the arm is a piece of cake to pull with that tool

I haven't had that tool fail, if it fits. Sometimes penetrant, heat, then upside down canned air, to freeze it, then heat and penetrant, then freeze and rap the puller with a hammer, although I'm sure Lee tried the hammer part and heat would have broken any loctite.

BTW, WELL VENTILATED if you use the air can. Some freons plus flame or heat can equal phosgene or other bad bad heavier than air gasses. I found this out with an R12 leak and a kerosene heater years ago coughing like crazy for an hour. Ironically, I think it's the only experience I have in common with my Grandfather, a WWI vet.

Oh yeah, tried everything BUT excessive heat 'cos I didn't want to ruin the bottom oil seal if the arm wouldn't come off. (You should see what's required to remove tapered axle hubs from old Jags). My seal is still leak-free and I was able to service the steering gear with the thing still mounted in the car. You also have to be careful with any hammering since there is a always a chance of damaging a bushing, bearing, shaft, thread etc.

The poster said he was able to remove the worm gear, which I assume means the worm nut as well?...so re-installing should be posible with the steering shaft in place. Therefore, removal of the Pitman arm may not be all that critical. Getting the top cover off is probably the most important step.

Phosgene, eh?....not good, but it does explain alot...(how do you put the smiley faces in?)

My goal was to remove the steering box to prepare the frame for sandblasting and a powdercoat. The powdercoat people want all bearings, rubber, and plastic removed before they can do anything. I unwisely took the back cover off (3 screws) and unscrewed the worm gear to aid in removal of the steering column so I made this job much harder. I will try tomorrow to remove the top cover by screwing the adjustment screw all the way in. If it works I've found a hero in this restoration.

Found out that my local auto parts store rents a tool kit they call the front suspension kit. It contains several tools similar to your photo. I will need them soon.

Lee2000, your advice about screwing the adjustment screw all the way in did the trick. I was able to remove the top easily. I tried to put the worm assembly back in to engage the gear. I turned the wheels all the way to one side so that I could engage the gear on the shaft but could never get it right. It looks like I will need to wait until I can remove the steering arm so that I can lift the shaft to engage the worm gear more in the middle. I'm going to try to order new gaskets and oil seals because I am probably destroying them in this process.

I had to take the top off of my early box to take it out of the car because the wheels were not turning (broken worm gear). Didn't have to take the arm off at the bottom. Have you tried sliding it out with the cover off? rotating down and forward. re installing was easier because i could rotate the arm on the new one.

Since the box is gonna get new seals etc anyway, I wouldn't be afraid to use quite a bit of heat, as the tool is tightened, to help get the Pitman arm off. But, you MIGHT be able to get the box out with the arm still attached IF you can get the tie rods off both ends of the Pitman arm.

Lee2000 wrote:. But, you MIGHT be able to get the box out with the arm still attached IF you can get the tie rods off both ends of the Pitman arm.

That's how I got mine off and back on, it required me to take the cover off, disconnected, and it wiggled out.

ACote wrote: That's how I got mine off and back on, it required me to take the cover off, disconnected, and it wiggled out.

You have a pic of the broken peice?

I can post the pic after work, Been a little behind on uploading. It was a chunk taken out of the worm gear,Right where his pinky is on the 3rd pic (as I remember). The one I replaced with turns very smooth and put new gear oil in. I adjusted the slack out that the old one had also. Made disconnecting hard as I couldn't turn left to get to the bolt easily.

never took it further apart than this was too excite to get the car driving again.

That's an early box...don't know if the late box will come out of the car with Pitman arm still attached cos I think it's bulkier.

Im wondering if the cutout in the crossmembers are located or sized different. My 69 /early box was about 1/4" shy of coming out, pitman arm had to come off.

It will probably be several weeks before I attempt to remove the pitman arm again. Right now I need the front suspension intact so I can roll the car around easily. I'm putting penetrating catalyst on it often for now and working on other things. I rolled the car out of the garage today and degreased again. I missed some areas last time. Does sandblasting remove any grease I may have missed? Tomorrow I'm going to work on the engine compartment, degreasing and such, to prepare for painting. I've got a problem with the paint color. I foolishly did not keep any of the paint codes from the last paint job 20 years ago. I went to the body shop location and found they no longer exist. I remember the color was a Corvette yellow so I did a little research online and found a likely candidate. I was able to order a can of aerosol in that color so I will see if it is the same. My plan is to paint the engine compartment the same color as the car. The exterior has nicks and dings so I would like to do some spot painting. Can you do that with aerosol cans and make it look good? I don't look forward to stripping the car of all its chrome to do a full paint job.