Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Does the fuel tank have 2 fittings?

sorry, no fuel tank on the California car. I assumed it would be a fuel return line to the tank, but there is no tank!

The 68 and later US cars had the return line. It was part of the emissions package to prevent vapor lock. I am not certain, but I think that some Canadian market cars did not have emissions and therefore may not have had the return line.

Does the Canadian body have a gas tank? Does it have one fitting?

yes, the cdn car has one flared fitting and one fitting that a gear clamp would hold a small hose (vent hose for the filler) Thats why I assumed the second line was a return for unburnt fuel back to the tank.

Here are some pictures of the frame off so far. For anyone wanting to know if horse hair really is all that bad, look at these photos.

notoptoy wrote:I got a piece of the foam that Skyman used (he sent it to me thanks!) - it's nice stuff.
My concerns with any of this is water retention/capture. Obviously the foams will shed watter better than the horse hair, but will it trap water between the foam and the metal and not let it dry or evaporate quickly?
Maybe something ribbed, or drilling some drain holes in the foam would be a reasonable idea?

If one were to apply adhesive to the faying surfaces, (frame and pad) it should minimize entrapment of dirt and water and stuff. http://www.masterbond.com/products/epoxy-systems" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I think the dirt is a big culprit. Dirt gets in the 'horsehair' and holds moisture like a sponge (almost), JMs old frame looks so dirty. like mine did.
These cars must be alot of fun on dirt roads.
Closed cell foam may deflect the dirt and keep things happy.

Its Great to see your progress JM!!!

Here's a photo of the cleaned frame.

I noticed about a 1/2" gap between the steering box and the pitman arm. I wondered if I needed to tighten up the arm to the box. I know its on a tapered spline, so maybe it is already as far up as it goes. Also, there is no nut on the bottom of the steering box (I must have lost it years ago when I had the front end apart) does anyone know if its metric or standard thread. Also, what size is it so I can order another one.

In the past when we replaced the horse hair, we would soak it in clean engine oil, wring it out, and install new oily horse hair pads. This way the horse hair is water proof and will not absorb any moisture.

Ross
sports imports

Well, I finally got to checking the head last night. I took the advice of many on the list and went with the head/stud system. I had a few tips from the site, and found a few things that I wanted to share
1. I had some slight rusting around cylinder 1, but I believe it was because a valve was open, and ambient moisture got in over 15 years. Seems OK now
2. I thought I could install the studs and then put the head down...NOPE, it wouldn't go past the L bracket. Even after taking only the long bolts off, it didn't fit. When I took all the studs out, the head went down fine. (Pretty sure that is what I was told, but my wife tells me I don't listen to her either!)
3. Two of the short studs seemed to go down further into the block than the other short ones. I think its because they go into the spots where the alignment "tubes" are (sorry for the non technical wording)
4. Was I to run the studs down all the way, (thought I'd run out of room to put the nuts on the top)
5. About 20 years ago, I put a bunch of stainless bolts onto the engine to dress it up. I must have put 2 on the front corners of the engine (directly behind the fan), and I noticed when putting the one back in that it doesn't tighten up. I may have to go one size larger to get it to hold (think one size larger might be around a 1/4" SAE) I am sure it is a 10 mm head now (likely a 6 mm thread?)

I had my son come out and torque the head. At least when its done he will be old enough to drive it, so he might as well say he helped! Here are some photos of the fun last night.

Lookin good Jim. I am in kind of the same boat. I am still trying to organize my life around a 15 month old baby and another kid in kindergarten. However I has managed to get the body ready to come off and the engine is ready to come out as well. Did your good frame has fuel and brake lines already on it or did you have to run them yourself? I looks like some PO just cut everything that was in their way, wires, brake and fuel lines, that sort of thing. Lol. Hope your having fun with your car. I'll try swing by one day when I come to Kelowna.
Merry Christmas.

Errol Frisk

Yes, the California frame had fuel and brake lines. I was confused about it having 2 fuel lines as compared to one line here in Canada. I asked on this forum, and was told that the 68 and later US cars had a return line for emissions reasons.

I turned the rotors last week, and rebuilt the front brake cylinders yesterday. I used the air line trick to remove the cylinders and they came out just fine. I got lucky and got all the cross over lines off. The cylinders were surprisingly not that bad. I used emery cloth and cleaned them up. Today I painted the rotors and the brake calipers. I will post the better photos tomorrow.

Looks good. Word to the wise, be very careful putting them back together as the caliper pistons and crossover lines have different connection types. If you put them on wrong, you will damage the flare on the crossover tube and have to reflare or replace it. Ask me how I know One suggestion is to mark them before disassembly.

Cheers
James

I believe one of mine was put on upside down once. It fit but sometimes rubbed on the rim, just enough to eventually wear a hole.
I'm calling it a previous owner thing.