Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Nice tip about the card board. I was going to replace pretty much everything on the cooling system, hoses, thermostat, radiator, gaskets, and new coolant.

Here is a shot of my engine. The block is the original, I have no idea about the head. Do you guys know if there is a way to tell if its the original head, or if not, what year it is from. Also any other info you could tell me from the pics would be great. The engine runs good. The coolant is clean, and the oil is clean. It fires up right away every time too.

I was told by the previous owner that the thermostat housing/ coolant fill cap should be higher than the radiator. But as you can see in the pic I attached, the radiator is the highest point. My car has a 5-speed swapped in it from the previous-previous owner. He thinks this could make the engine lean forward. I read that the 5-speed cross member is slightly lower than the 4-speed, so it kinda makes sense the engine could be tipped forward if the 5-speed is mounted to the 4-speed cross member. The motor mounts look straight, I have not been able to lift the car up and check the transmission mount/ cross member to see how it is set up. While I'm under there, I wanted to check if it has the 2000 plate, I think its called the backing plate, it's thicker than the 1600 one. Is the plate visible from the outside? I wanted to measure it to make sure it is set up right. Any advise would be great.

The head is a non-smog head, so it is likely the correct one. If it is standard thread, it is. It does not make much difference though. The fuel line routing around the back is interesting - it was originally around the front of the head.

You can see the backing plate on the passenger side of the car, between the block and the transmission rather easily, and should be able to get a measurement there. You should be able to see it in the engine compartment, but even more easily from under the car near the clutch slave or directly under the engine/tranny junction.
As far as the cross member mount, unless it has been modified, the 4 speed mount won't work - and allow the motor mounts to stay straight. Trust me I tried this and several other combinations! It's likely correct, but a picture would help immensely.

Ill get under there and take some pictures of the tranny mount soon. Thanks for the info. Does the pic I attached of the radiator being slightly higher than the coolant fill cap look normal? Or is it supposed to be above the radiator like the previous owner thought?

Booty_Hunter wrote: Does the pic I attached of the radiator being slightly higher than the coolant fill cap look normal?

I don't much about the looks of a 1600

Booty_Hunter wrote: Or is it supposed to be above the radiator like the previous owner thought?

I can tell you that as long as you have the hose, it does not matter as long as they are close, but I like the Radiator being the highest point.

When you first fill the coolant, there will be a small air pocket in the Radiator. When the engine heats up the coolant will expand and push the air into the expansion tank. When it cools is will suck in coolant from the tank. Just make sure the tank in full and check before starting for the first couple of times until all the air is out of the system.

If you want to get the air out before you warm the car, squeeze (pump) on the hose. It should bubble air into the expansion tank and suck coolant into the radiator. Keep pumping the air out until it no longer bubbles. Make sure the tank is keep half full.

So, can't tell from the pictures, but here are a few recommended basics for all new purchases:
1. check the grounds. Roadsters were a bit "ground challenged" in stock form, the engine/trans mounts had such good rubber isolators that additional grounds are a good idea. Block-frame, alt-frame, batt-frame, starter-frame.
2. add a secondary hood and trunks latch cables. Some route this thru the firewall/tunnel so that it hangs above your gas pedal foot. In back hang it thru the trunk floor.
Using the wire cable supplied in a picture hanging kit works well. May never need it, but when you do... More common to have trunk lock spin and be non-functional and have to fish from below witha coat-hanger/screwdriver.
3. Battery cable running to starter. Make sure it is not resting on anything hot, or gets hot when running (typically sitting on top of trans bellhousing). Put an insulator around the outside of it (old heater hose works good) or suspend it using wire ties.

Thanks for the advice.

Is it just me or does the fan shroud look cut down? Or is it a newer shroud on a 66?

I have know idea about the fan shroud. Can some one measure their's and I'll compare to mine?

That is a later shroud as it is stamped from a single sheet. The earlier shrouds were two piece with individual mounting "legs" welded on. If you want to go stock, the early shrouds are not hard to find. I think I have a couple in the garage.

spl310 wrote:That is a later shroud as it is stamped from a single sheet. The earlier shrouds were two piece with individual mounting "legs" welded on. If you want to go stock, the early shrouds are not hard to find. I think I have a couple in the garage.

You can find things in your garage???

Well, bigger stuff is not so tough...

I'm new to this site but I've owned my 68 1600 since 72...73...somewhere like that. I'm not far from your location (Vallejo) so if you need a hand at turning a wrench, Let me know.