67 1600 SR20 Swap

[BBF Roadster]

I am looking for a cylinder head for my 1967 1600
Let me know if you have one
Have fun with your restoration project

[aka]

Well, I know it has been a while but I finally got the garage in some decent shape to work on the car. I wanted to get a maxjax lift but that is going to have to wait. My garage floor has some cracks in it so if I wanted to do that I would need to pour some new pillars in the floor. If anyone knows a good concrete guy in NC I could use his number!

I pulled most of the rear gear, the fuel tank, the doors and started removal of the interior. The engine will be out in a week or so. If I can't sell it I will PM you BBF Roadster and let you pull some parts from it.

The car has a lot of rust, which was to be expected. The bumper took almost 45 minutes to remove 6 bolts. The fuel tank has seen better days but it doesn't matter because I was planning on putting in a new fuel cell in it anyway.

Question! Where do you guys support the car with jack stands? I have six under it right now. Two right behind the front wheels and two right in front of the rear wheels. I also have two semi-supporting it under the cross member running behind the bumper. I am trying to minimize flex in the car. I already noticed that the door on the drivers side had a larger gap then the passenger side. I am a little concerned the frame might be bent. I wont' know until I raise the body and can get some measurements on it.

Also do you guys weld some temporary cross members across the doors in order to minimize flex in the body when lifting it off the frame. I have seen this done in much larger convertibles but all the images I have seen of the roadsters, no one seems to run temporary supports. Is it because it is such a small body?

I will post some pictures soon!

Later

[FergO2k]

if you lift without doors, you most certainly need braces.
I use the gussets in the x-member to lift the car, then put the jackstands right next to that, so it sounds like you are in the right position.
although it is a unibody (well, kinda), when I was doing major aircooled VW work long ago I got 2 foot pieces of railroad tie (like 14-18" tall) and put them lengthwise and set the car on top, so I could be absolutely sure I wasn't going to be wearing the car if I started twisting and yanking on frozen bolts.

[notoptoy]

I have noticed flex when up on Jackstands as well - but I can't remember where I had them placed - I noticed it in how the doors opened/closed. I now prefer putting the car up on Ramps, youhave to jack each end of the car up and put the ramps under the wheels, and of course you need two sets of ramps. Several people have used the door jamb braces, and I highly recommend it. There are pictures of these throughout the forum, I'd look at about anybody's restoration threads to see these in place.

[aka]

Ok, Well the left driver door has always been a little hard to close so it might just need to be adjusted. I will do some more measuring today to determine the real issue.

I currently have it jacked up like a 4 post lift would pick it up and then have supports under the rear support behind the bumper.

I found Spriso post here http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... n&start=45 so I have been looking at that. Are there any other good ones I should look at with good pictures?

This is my order I am going to do things. Does this sound right?

• Remove all Exterior Hardware
  Remove All Interior Parts including Windshield and Windows
  Remove Engine, Trans, Exhaust, Tank
  Remove Doors, Hood and Trunk
  Remove Electrical and Hydraulic Systems
  Weld supports across the door openings using 1" square steel to resist flex when lifting body.
  Un-Bolt Body from Frame
  Bring Body and Frame to get it Acid Dropped

After I get the Frame and body dipped I will start on the sheet metal restore on the body and start modifying the frame to fit the SR20.

The logistical part I need to figure out is how to get the body and frame to get dipped. If I leave the wheels on the frame so I can roll it then I can't dip the frame until I remove all that gear.

I guess I could lift the body and move it the engine lifts and get it on the flat bed and then do the same with the frame.

[aka]

Well I lowered the car back down to sit on the wheels and the driver door is still a little tough to close but it does close as when it was jacked up it didn't. So I am going to build two jigs from the latch to the hinge that I can put in place of the doors to help keep things straight. There are some really bad screwed in patch panels so I think the body will need the extra supports until I repair all the sheet metal properly.

Pics coming soon!

[pebbles]

I looked at SPRISOs website quite a bit.
Depending on how solid the rockers and floors are, will determine the extent of support required.
The balance point for lifting is pretty close to the center tunnel seatbelt holes.
A few pics here http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 8&start=45" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I made two carts from wood scraps,,the wheels were 40.00, two to steer and stationary, and that took longer than removing the body,,,Im not a wood guy. The frame is fairly light stripped. Two guys can lift it.

[aka]

Cool! Thanks! I read through your post. Very nice! You make me want to buy a plasma cutter though .

I am going to try to get the body off tomorrow right after I build the jigs for the doors.

Later....

[TacomaBoy]

As far as lifting the body off, I've had real good luck using just a cherry picker with full boom extension and a chain to each of the 4 floor pan to frame bolt locations. I used a 7/16 eye bold in each for the chain to hook on. You must first raise the body a bit to gain access to add fender washer on bottom before nutting it. Works like a champ,and set is quick. Find something you can lower the body onto that rolls. Makes life eaiser. Good luck.

[pebbles]

This is my order I am going to do things. Does this sound right?

• Remove Engine, Trans, Exhaust, Tank

At the time I pulled the body, I did not have an engine hoist, so I left the motor and trans in. Pulled the carbs, radiator, diconnected fuel lines wires and such. Its super easy to pull the motor/trans with the body off. Takes up less room too if space is limited.

I tried to borrow a buddies plasma cutter,,,but,,,,so I used about 6 cutting discs.

Take alot of pics too!!!

[TacomaBoy]

A lot of hrs. ago.

[aka]

Well I got the seats out and wasn't to happy with what I found. They were both moved about 2 inches back because the bolt holes were so rusted out. Then all the bolts snapped because they were SOOOOO rusted. The floor is a whole another story. I found half eaten acorns and stuff I couldn't even identify. The floor is going to need ALOT of special attention! The front looks so good because it is folded sheet metal held in with sheet metal screws!!





Then I removed this professional carpet job in the back that was held on with self tapping sheet metal screws! The guy that installed this has a future in auto upholstery!!





Not to bad here but the entire bottom of the rear panel is completly rusted out and the entire bottom half will need to be replaced.





I need to go get some metal to make the door braces but once that is done the body will be lifted. Hopefully it will stay together

[sports imports]

I have floor pans if you need them. We make them ourselves and have installed many over the years.

Ross
sports imports

[aka]

Wow that is great! How much and what else do you make

[pebbles]

Cool! Thanks! I read through your post. Very nice! You make me want to buy a plasma cutter though .

I am going to try to get the body off tomorrow right after I build the jigs for the doors.

Later....

If you plan on replacing floor pans, a plasma cutter would be very nice to have.

I've been telling myself for 20 years,,, this the last one,,, yeah right. At least I can finally call it a hobby.