Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Some things I've learned.
1. Make sure the frame is level on jack stands.
2. I am able to have the shifter maintain it's origional location.
3. Will still use the urethaine trans mount I used on the 1600.
3a. Trans. mount will consist of 1 pc. 3 1/2''x3 1/2''angle14 long. 1pc. 2 1/2x 2 1/2''angle 5''long.
It will bolt up in it's origional location.
4. Will require shortening driveshaft about an inch.
5. Centering eng. in bay interfers with motor mount studs on pass. side due to block configuration.
6. As of now, I have 5/8'' under crank pulley and crossmember and room to remove pan if needed
7. A steady supply of Mikes Harder Lemon...... Well that helps too.

Alright , went out tonight to step back and look. Stock exhaust flange looks close to frame rail. After measuring with level, things will be snug but far from touching. My later day plan is to trailer the chassie up to by bud's at New Sound for the sound exhaust. Also , sorting out garbage on the intake.

Who was the BO-BO that said " The exhaust flange will be snug but far from touching." OOOPPPP's. I set the body this afternoon to try to confirm my thoughts. Not. Actually all is great with plenty of room to spare,except that exhaust flange. The body will sit in place and can be bolted up,but 0 room for eng. torque because of flange contact.. Overall ,I feel good about results. In the pic you can see tape of area tobe relieved. Also there is a thread boss on the exhaust mani. that should be removed for better steering shaft clearence. For those considering this swap: My eng. is dead nuts centered in bay with shifter centered in original location. It may be possible without interference to offset the eng. 1/2'' to pass side to steer clear of the exhaust flange issue. I will in the meantime look for other options for that clearence issue. ie. differnt manifold. Anybody knows of one ,let me in . Thanks.

damn I was gonna try and make a set of hotshot headers to fit

For sure you can build a header to fit if ya want. Theres plenty of room for that.

Alright, things are coming together.

Wow, that looks good, it also just looks fast!

For now ,let's just hope it starts when it gets key'd. LOL . Ya know how some things can go. In fact today,I find this part on the shelf all clean and looking like it has a home. As I scratch my head, I start to scratch harder,till I dont know where the H. E. double hockey sticks this thing goes. Lucky for me ,the FS Manual showed it. The adapter from block to oil filter housing. Life is good again.

I think the body comes off again tonight. Most all wiring changes have been made,fuel tank swap is in place and wired,leads for starter are on correct side now. I did find a cool exhaust manifold from a score last week. Has a much narrower bolt configuration with twin head pipes. Should be a good choice for what I got going at this point. Shoot'in for exhaust next week. This seems like a slow part of the project. No it a slow point. Just keep pluggin.

I love how that motor looks sitting in the engine compartment! Good score on the header.
Keep posting pics, I'm enjoying it!


Tom

UUUhhh? Huh.Huh. Hey Bevis. I would post a pic, but the only change is the body being off, and a new Centerforce dual friction with new flywheel awaiting install. Works busy, home is busy. I wish at tims I had a few extra limbs.

Progress is much slower than anticipated. Most of this due to my F-150 Trans crapping out back in Dec. That ment emptying my 3000k toy fund to cash out on it. Anyway heres a few shots from yesterday returning from exhaust shop. Your looking at 1 3/4 off the manifold,merged into 2'' into 2 1/4''. Jeff at New Sound assures me it will flow like like a mother and still provide a bit of back pressure passing through the swirl baffel glass pack. At this point I can now put the body back on and start to finalize what I've started.

rad!
keep it up

Man, that pipe looks like a cannon. I'd love to hear this thing when she's done!

Starting in on a KA24DE conversion on our 67 Roadster.

A few questions if you don't mind:
Were you able to keep the alternator in its new location under the distributor?

How much clearance do you have between the head/valve cover and the firewalll?

I have notched the X member, but would really like to make a removable crossmember so the trans could be removed without pulling the engine. Frame really seems to be quite stout. I've heard of others wishing it was removable.

Can you give a measurement from the front of the frame to the crank snout to give me an idea of placement?

Did you reuse the motor mount pads on the frame or cut them out and weld on new ones?
Thanks
Marty
Mesa, AZ