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Re: spl311 thermostat Housing removal

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 2:44 pm
by greydog
Hmm, doesn't work. Let's try http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-2 ... ccessories" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Re: spl311 thermostat Housing removal

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:05 pm
by spl310
A word of note, you should open the bolt holes slightly with a rattail file to make the Z neck fit better. The same unit was used on some early L16s. You can use the 2000 neck as well, but they can be pricey.

Re: spl311 thermostat Housing removal

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:30 pm
by dbrick
I think I posted this before, but here it is again. It really works.
1. Use a good Cobalt or TiN (Titanium Nitrate)1/8 or a bit smaller drill bit and carefully drill vertically down the side of the stud, between the stud and the housing as deep as you can go, stopping before you hit the head. You are not removing too much materiel, just cutting a channel for oil, drilling mostly aluminum, as it's softer than the bolt. the drill will almost guide itself. Use good bits and oil, Go Slowly, don't snap the bit. You can do more than one hole per stud. I've had good luck with DeWalt drill bits drilling out distributor pins and bolts in general
2. Fill the hole with PB buster, ATF/Acetone mix, Kroil or the miracle fluid of choice, heat is optional
3. Using a small metal hammer, hit sharply left and right. Not big heavy blows, you need the concussion. If there is a stud sticking up, try to rock it slightly loose then tight.
4. When the tower comes off, then deal with the studs. Helicoil the holes if in doubt, cheap and easy.
5. Clean out the inside of the hole, and use antisieze ,as stated earlier.
And if possible I would add a ground strap from the housing to the block to prevent electrolytic corrosion (there is a small tapped hole on the side of the tower IIRC).

I don't know if stainless would help or hurt the corrosion, as it has it's own issues with galling the threads, but I would helicoil the head.

Re: spl311 thermostat Housing removal

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:55 pm
by greydog
Good point on the stainless fasteners in Helicoils Dave. I actually use a carbon steel Time Sert as I dislike the Helicoil design (just don't like the idea of a shaped wire as a thread substitute). Anti seize will help and the fasteners don't have to be fully torqued.
Dan

Re: spl311 thermostat Housing removal

Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:07 pm
by danimal2
Thank you all for your help and a special Thank you to "Fred" for the thermo housing. The thermostat has been replaced and the car has finally made it's most recent (in 20 years) maden voyage to town (18 miles one way) and never got hot (it's 101 F in San Angelo, TX today). It was a hot ride, but much fun as well as interesting. Thank you all so much for your help and ideas.

I am starting another post with some other concerns so if you all don't mind please give me your thoughts.

Daniel in Texas