Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Thanks Linda.

Time estimates are ugly - do you figure this with the engine in place or not etc.?!?! One nice thing is that it is not a difficult job, especialy if you use pre-configured (fittings in place) straight line, and you have the engine out. Plus of course I stopped to take quite a few pictures!

I did all of this as a result of "while I am here" syndrome. So having EVERYTHING out of the way and the engine compartment cleaned up were big, big advantages in doing these lines!
The front brake lines probably took 3-4 hours, once I decided what to do. But it also took a lot of hours to run to the store several times to figure out the right parts etc. Hopefully my information will reduce a lot of that for people wanting to try this.

The Clutch and rear brake line were actually pretty quick once I started, but many of the above issues were already resolved - I had the bulk line and I re-used existing fittings, and had honed my technique a bit. I'd guess that start to finish once I sat down with the materials was about two hours.

As with any job, it's all in the prep work.

exit64 wrote:Nice clean work there, Tom. In the past, I have used a dremel with a cut off wheel to get the old ends off of the tubing to reuse. For some reason I can't resist power tools.

That's a good point, I love takeing every opportunity to use power tools as well, and now kick myself that I didn't think of a way to incorporate them as suggested!!
WAIT - I did use the wire brush wheel on my benchtop grinder to clean the fittings!! I am of the believe that a job isn't really challenging unless the possibility of blood loss and bodily harm are proportionate to the task at hand! This job was pretty old-school with hand-tools, though the potential for bodily harm is high - if you screw it up and visit the rear end of somebody else's car.

Not to drag up an old topic but I bought all the stuff to do this in stainless for about 100 dollars, thanks for the guide though!

Nice, I didn't even consider stainless, as it wasn't readily available at the parts store. It probably makes sense to go that route if it was not that much more money.
What is your source for the stainless? How hard is it to bend the stainless? The steel tubing was pretty easy to bend.
Thanks for the info.

I ordered it all through jegs. It would have been under 100 dollars but since the hightop has a different fitting for splitting brakes up I decided to get a T fitting and also bought an adapter for the brake light switch.

As for bending the stainless no clue, I wouldn't think it much harder then steel but I haven't messed with it much but for the cost I'd give it a shot. I'll post my results though as I'm doing this on a 68 which isn't too much different on the brakes besides the way its split up which I'm replacing with t fittings.

FoxyRoadster wrote:I ordered it all through jegs. It would have been under 100 dollars but since the hightop has a different fitting for splitting brakes up I decided to get a T fitting and also bought an adapter for the brake light switch.

As for bending the stainless no clue, I wouldn't think it much harder then steel but I haven't messed with it much but for the cost I'd give it a shot. I'll post my results though as I'm doing this on a 68 which isn't too much different on the brakes besides the way its split up which I'm replacing with t fittings.

I am going with Stainless Steel.

I think you are going to find Stainless in very hard to flare.

I got the eastwood profressional tool #25304, have not tried it yet.

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Post some pics as you go. Heck, if it goes well bending the stainless, I might re-do this just for fun!!


NOT!

It's 304 double annealed so it should bend and flare pretty easily. It'll work harden to beat the band tho so you'll have trouble "unbending" or tightening a bend. It'll take a good flaring tool but it's not hard stainless so should be ok. Kinda neat, I wonder if I could use it for fuel line.....
Should last pretty much forever tho once it's on the car and you can polish it nice and shiny. Gonna be a bear crawling under the car every month or so to polish that nice shiny brake line
Dan

Ahh, well I got all premade connectors, I'll be converting my clutch over to wilwood as well as I already have the master and will just run premade tube and hose for it. (I'm lazy and cheap I know ) I have a feeling they are bubbled flares it says double flared so.. if they are I'll figure something out.

A tip I learned (you may already know) that may help those new flared ends seal; When assembling, tighten the tubing nut down, loosen it and retighten. Seems to "seat" the tubing onto the fitting. I had a couple flares leak on a previous project, loosened the fitting and retightened. No more issues. Since then, it has been my M.O. with no leaks.

got the stainless line in today.. man this is going to look so crappy.. my master cylinder is all nasty same with my calipers but this brake line is like super shiny! Guess I need to see about polishing them up.

Wow, that is a great write up, thank you, Tom! I know it has received some criticism, but I really like the idea of going across the crossmember. I believe I will do that as well... The tool you showed to flare the lines looks like a single flare tool... Is it not necessary to double flare the brake lines then?

There is an attachment, a small black circular thingy that makes the standard or "double flare", it comes with the kit, I should have shown it better.
Good luck with your project!

fj20spl311 wrote:I got the Eastwood professional tool #25304, have not tried it yet.

Nice tool, but !OUCH! $220!

ppeters914 wrote:

fj20spl311 wrote:I got the Eastwood professional tool #25304, have not tried it yet.

Nice tool, but !OUCH! $220!

If you were closer, we could have a flaring party. LOL