Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Should be easy with the right electrode and gas cup. I was able to weld a piece of 22 guage sheet steel to a 1/2" steel plate like a T with ease using an old Hobart DC TIG welder. TIG welding is fun, even if it's slow.

ttyR2 wrote:Should be easy with the right electrode and gas cup. I was able to weld a piece of 22 guage sheet steel to a 1/2" steel plate like a T with ease using an old Hobart DC TIG welder. TIG welding is fun, even if it's slow.

I am pretty good at welding mild steel, need to watch the heat on stainless.
It's / I am slow welding, but I always say enjoy the project, there always going to be another when you are done. No need to hurry!

I was interested in those radiators but wanted a spot for a temp sender added along with wanting to know the year radiator they used as an example. They also amended the eBay ad and removed 70. Bummer, buying one place and modifying elsewhere.

Here is the response.

This is all the info I have on that rad. The owner's notes are below. As far as any mods to what we make, you'll have to take it to a rad shop locally and see what they can do for you. Thanks for your interest!


The radiator was used in the 1963-65 SPL 1500 roadsters, the 1965-69 SPL 1600 roadsters up to VIN#25000 and the 1967 1/2-1969 SRL 2000 roadsters up to VIN#9000.

I sent him an email first day it was listed, mentioned it will ONLY fit a 1600, sent photos etc and mentioned if he can add a cap, I'd get one for the 2000. He said thanks, understood the difference, but th ad has been the same. Apparently not a big concern for him.
Still, it's a nice part.

I've seen aluminum radiators do amazing things. We used to run one in the shop race car. 1000+HP, 40psi, and a 75shot of nitrous. We would get about 10 runs in before the heads would lift off the block and send all that cylinder pressure into the coolant system. It would bend the radiator into a "C" shape but would not spring a leak! Pretty cool stuff Of course we would have to replace the radiator after that because it's ability to cool was gone.

When they are not being bent in half, the average temp drop at all engine RPM's was 10 degrees F compared to a properly working OEM radiator.

Good find! I would recommend this mod to everyone especially if you are having overheating issues. Also, throw in a can of Water Wetter.

Its been nearly two months now since the Radiator install and I love the darn thing. I even had 3 small coolant leaks...non of the rad. fault. One at the fill cap..heater control valve....recovery tank. Was not holding preasure but didnt get over the 1/2 way mark on gauge. Now that I have fixed those leaks stays between last hash mark and middle mark. I was going to use water wetter but I think it may stay too kool for the thermostate to even open. On kool days.

I got one of the champion radiators from Ebay, but I saw this one afterward. I think someone on here used a Del Sol radiator. This one is for the Del Sol, and it's cheap, and it has a radiator cap on it. Thought maybe someone would want to try one. Looks nice for 65 bucks, but I don't know how much work it would take to make it work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 1858929450" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

duff me wrote:I got one of the champion radiators from Ebay, but I saw this one afterward. I think someone on here used a Del Sol radiator. This one is for the Del Sol, and it's cheap, and it has a radiator cap on it. Thought maybe someone would want to try one. Looks nice for 65 bucks, but I don't know how much work it would take to make it work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 1858929450" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It looks like the bottom return outlet is on the wrong side(passenger instead of drivers), it could be a problem clearing the fan and shroud.

I know Kevin Desirello uses Del Sol radiators on his SR20 swaps. I used one of the Champion radiators I bought off EBay on my U20 in my '68. I had the filler neck welded on, and it does a great job. http://www.fototime.com/inv/3932F6ADDB2190B" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I used one of the Champion radiators

These are fantastic photos. Exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks.

Isn't the radiator pictured set-up for an automatic? Those look like cooling line fittings for the Transmission. I suppose you don't have to use them, but not having fluid in the bottom seems like it would interfere with the efficiency.

Summer's coming!!
What looks like a price drop from one of the sellers on Ebay is similar, but it's a 2 row vs a 3 row.
Just an FYI for anyone shopping, I have nothing to do with the sellers.


3 row
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM ... 0377977126

2 row
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-196 ... 0427454734

K1200 GT wrote:It was advertised to fit 1963-69 1600. I know that is a wide range but thats the way it was listed. The price was right. I had to redrill some mounting holes. But well worth the results. Try too post some pics. There # is 714-432-1266. Calif.

Richard

Aluminum Radiator 004.jpg

I know this is a while ago, but...

I see you drilled the holes in the fan shroud - I'll have to do that, too. Did you use the existing top hole on the passenger side of the shroud and the existing bottom hole on the driver side and then drill the other new holes? I can see the one new hole on the driver side in the picture, but not sure which others you drilled. I'm trying to avoid 3 passes of the old in and out (of the radiator).

Duff.

I drilled the top left and the bottom right. That lined up with there nuts that are welded to the radiator frame. I had to move the radiator to the far right, up against the inner fender suport to clear the steering box. It only clears by a couple MM. There were two holes already in the cross rails that the radiator bolts to on the pass side. I had to drill two new holes on the drivers side...one top and one bottom.. Hope that helps some.


Richard

Duff may have a bit more steering box clearance with the 68.