Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

That car sure sounds sweet. It looks like you have some pretty good control even with the powerband change.

Mike, that's music to the years. Quite the hustling little roadster now. How many ponies do you have at rear these days?

213 at the wheels Tom.. But I doubt I am getting that on this little track.. Power is still climbing at redline. And I almost never hit redline here unless the tires are spinning..lol

After years of owning my car I finally got the PINK SLIP! Yahoo!

Got the old pilot bearing out and a new one in, as well as the cam expansion plug installed. Also got the exhaust manifold off so that the engine will go in easier.
All systems go-
Linda

On Sunday bikermike, roadstrdude and I had a "hydraulic party" at my place. The idea was to change brake/clutch fluids on our cars and tend to other items while up on the jack stands. We didn't get to the hydraulics but we did rotate tires, do some zerks and clean an engine bay.

Raul cleaned up his engine bay and drove his car around with it's "leaf-blower" exhaust


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With bikermike's guidance I greased the zerks. After filling the idler box zerk the steering was noticeably tighter with less play. Thanks Mike!



With wheels off Raul graciously cleaned them




We will tackle the hydraulics next month and post the date in the events if anyone wants to partake!

Decided to figure out where my exhaust leak was coming from. Started by removing my carburetors to get to my header. What a pain! After a few broken old hoses and stripped/rusty bolts. I removed the header and found this nice sized hole.



Due to budget right now, I think I'm going to get it welded up... instead of buying a new header.

Yep! that would do it!

I spent the day yesterday contorting myself under the dash fitting an immobiliser to McQueen.
All done in a stealthy manner and very effective as a line of protection.
I also plan to fit a remotely controlled motion sensor which has a 120dB siren fitted.

We'll see how sensitive that box is once the slow boat from Hong Kong arrives

Trav wrote:Decided to figure out where my exhaust leak was coming from. Started by removing my carburetors to get to my header. What a pain! After a few broken old hoses and stripped/rusty bolts. I removed the header and found this nice sized hole.



Due to budget right now, I think I'm going to get it welded up... instead of buying a new header.

Double check to see what caused that hole. There may be some contact with another part that made that hole. Cut, dish, weld, accordingly.There is some discussion elsewhere on the forum for header interference and mods to relieve it.

pebbles wrote: Double check to see what caused that hole.

It looks like the hole came from rubbing up against the engine. Does the header usually come in contact with the engine? Maybe a flex pipe would prevent the movement in the header, so there would be no rubbing to create the hole again.

The flex pipe will only help the header to tail pipe movement.
The engine and header move as one, or should!
Looks like there needs to be a dimple in that location to allow two items to share the same real estate.

My guess is that is where the header is right by the rail of the block. Not uncommon for aftermarket headers to be close there.

Recently, The Wiper 10A fuse has been blowing in my SP310.
This fuse also provides 12V to the Reverse switch in the transmission.
After a lot of fiddling, isolating circuits and wailing and gnashing of teeth, I found that the Niles Type 2 toggle switch for the wipers was faulty
Why is it always the last thing you look at
Anyhoo, I knew I had a few spare switches so I cleaned them up with contact cleaner and proceeded to R & R the faulty one.
However, the spares were 2 x Type 3's and 1 x Type 1.
The Type 1 is a simple c/o switch for Fog lights so I had to adopt a Type 3, usually used for Lights and Heater, to do the wiper function.
Now the contact pin outs are quite different but the switch function is the same as a Type 2.
e.g.
for a Type 2, OFF pin 2 - 7, ON pin 2 - 5, pin 2 being the common.
for a Type 3, OFF pin 4 - 7, ON position 1 pin 4 - 6 - 7, ON position 2, pin 2 - 6 - 7, pin 7 being the common.
So it was a simple re-positioning of the 3 wires to get the wiper motor to function: -
Black to pin 6 - Ground
Blue to pin 7 - wiper motor
Blue White to pin 4 - park switch
OK, so far so good

Why not make use of the additional ON position [2] for electric windshield washers?
Admittedly, it is not a spring loaded position but what the heck!
I already had a reservoir and electric pump hidden in the trunk so all I had to do was extend the wire from a push button switch I had installed at the side of the dash and connect it to pin 2 of the new Type 3 Wiper switch.
Voila
Wipers now work, well if you can call it working and if I flip the Wiper switch up to ON 2, we have squirters!
There is no break in the 12V feed to the wiper motor when switching from ON 1 to ON 2 so it works like a bought one.
I still have the OEM hand pump connected but I doubt that will ever get used unless I want to impress somebody

Feeling somewhat pleased with myself, I also decided to replace the OEM ignition coil with a brand new ebay purchase, a Bosch GT-40 coil.
There's another 10HP at least

Nissanman wrote:Yep! that would do it!

I spent the day yesterday contorting myself under the dash fitting an immobiliser to McQueen.
All done in a stealthy manner and very effective as a line of protection.
I also plan to fit a remotely controlled motion sensor which has a 120dB siren fitted.

We'll see how sensitive that box is once the slow boat from Hong Kong arrives

I always found a manual choke worked well as an immobilizer, with a really loud muffler as a backup system. Best I did on the Roadster lately was add Stabil and shoot some pictures of it.

On Friday I made the trip back to the chrome platers (7-8hr round trip) to pick up my goodies before the Christmas shut-down, otherwise I would have to wait until late January.

Quite happy with the result, the car will be a bit heaver now! They did lots of repair work on the cast bits like the farilady badge and boot handle, the windscreen bottom piece had one or two rust holes as well and a ding or two in the grill.

Lot of work in cast items as they chase the white powder out until they hit good metal them refill so takes lots of time = $. fiddly shapes are all done by hand so more time = $.

There is a 12mts warranty covering the plating for things like blistering etc. I got told to come back if there are any problems and they will fix it. The only problem I have is the ¼ window hinge bits they don't seem to turn well with each other, probably a combination of a repair and thick plating.

Can get it fixed when I go back with the bits I forgot like the ash tray, which I'm sure is round here somewhere!

Photos don't do it justice, hard to know what to do now as I have a 67.5 so the inside should be painted silver + frosting my headlight scoops