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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:48 pm
by inline4
for the early model 311's that have a single circuit brake master cylinder, will a side by side dual reservoir master cylinder work, provided you run new lines?

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:08 pm
by spl310
I have seen race cars with that setup. It takes work, but anything can be made to work.

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:19 pm
by inline4
I dont think there's much of a "cheap" alternative, unless you go with a wilwood kit or something that relocates it right?

also, wheel wise,

will 15x6.5 13 offset for the front and 15x7 by 3 for the rear work alright?

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 12:19 am
by inline4
for the U20 are the manifolds for the SU's the same as mikunis?

will these mikuni 44 phh carbs work? sorry, I know nothing at all about carbs.

Image

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:48 am
by spl310
No, the manifolds are different from SU to Solex. On the carbs you posted, they could be either 40s or 44s. Take the carb off the manifold and look at the number stamped to the back of the butterfly. If it is 165, it is a 40 and 175 makes it a 44.

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 10:07 am
by Brad Lustig
The screwheads don't match on my tach plate and speedo plate. If I remember correctly, the speedo is held on my phillips head, the tach has flathead screws. Is this normal?

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:17 pm
by Phred58
Okay, kind of an esoteric question here. Some later model trunks have 3 holes where the handle mounts and some have only have 2 (no center hole) - is the difference year model related or something else??

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 2:47 pm
by Linda
On the fuse box rivets, I am trying to back up the round side of the rivet, which is below the clip as you look at the "fuse" side of the box, in order to tap the other side of the rivet, the flat, cross-hatched side on the other side of the box. Problem is I don't have anything to back it up with. i am trying not to dent the round side of the rivet, would I? If so I need something round to use. Any ideas?
TIA

Linda

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:36 pm
by fossil
Linda,

In manufacturing parlance, the part that supports or pushes the head of the rivet is called a "Driver" and the part that curls the open end of the rivet is called an "Anvil".

These tools are specialized and usually supplied by the rivet manufacturers. It is likely that someone would need to make a driver to match the rivet head.

Stan

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:51 pm
by notoptoy
Linda:
One thought I had is using the snap kits for boat canvas, they sell the kits at most hardware and Home improvement places. The kit comes with a rounded backing, and a little metal "punch", these might work for what you want to do, I haven't tried this myself, but it seems feasable. the kits should be under $10.
Tom

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:56 pm
by Linda
I was told these rivets are "solid", if that makes a difference. I have a marine supply store near by so perhaps checking with them would be an idea, related to what Tom is saying.
I tried to back up the rounded part and tap the other side but couldn't get it to work so it all went back together again until the next go-round.
Thanks for the info.

Linda

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 10:53 pm
by fj20spl311
I have used anvils and drivers held together with a "C" clamp and then back the clamp and hit the other end with a hammer. Takes a few times to install a new rivet, but one hit should tighten up a loose rivet.

BTW This is the correct hand tool LOL


Image

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 4:06 am
by tknishi
My 2000 runs fine, but when it sits overnight, the next morning I have a strong gas smell in the garage. I can't seem to pinpoint where this smell is coming from the car, there are no leaks on the garage floor, and most of my fuel lines were recently changed. Any suggestions of places to check for leaks?

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 8:45 am
by notoptoy
I'd look to the overflow vents on the carb's, is there a hose there? There is one overflow pipe per carb, on the top, in plain view.
Also look at the fuel pump, and around the carburetors, and the glass fuel filter bowl for signs of moisture/leaks. You may want to replace the gasket on the fuel filter bowl.

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 1:39 pm
by GeoffM
tknishi wrote:My 2000 runs fine, but when it sits overnight, the next morning I have a strong gas smell in the garage. I can't seem to pinpoint where this smell is coming from the car, there are no leaks on the garage floor, and most of my fuel lines were recently changed. Any suggestions of places to check for leaks?
I would check the tank vent tubes. There is a small tube that runs from the top of the tank to the rear of the car, then along the rear of the tank and hooks-up to the vent on the filler neck. Mine was cracked and I had the same issue with raw gas smell. My other gas smell is from Edamame.