R16 noise, help me out

[cbez]

I didn't find any major restrictions in the rocker. There was a little crud in it (shown earlier in the thread somewhere) but nothing major that would have blocked it up. I had oil flow all up through.

The main leaks I am seeing now are bell housing (if I squish the cover plate, oil is forced out, so I think some must be the rope seal), oil pan, and a seep from the oil filter adapter.

I am going to try a thicker oil again when I check the pan. If I can get that, and the adapter to fully seal up, then I will see how much just the rope seal is leaking and decide if I can live with it or not.

[nismou20]

I’ve never been able to seal oil pan gasket at torque figures quoted in factory manuals. It always leak so I’ve snugged them up quite a bit more. RMS seems a crapshoot, sometimes good sometimes bad even if done via instructions? I stuff a rag between the bell housing and pan rear like a diaper to keep garage floor clean.

[msampsel]

I have a U20 pump in my stroker and the gauge reads the same for the most part. Frankly I'm not that trusting about accuracy of the stock electric gauge. I've thought about hooking up a mechanical just to compare. As I noted before there is no lack of oil when I take the valve cover off or anything else. Have to keep a roll of paper towels handy.

Late to this party, but thought I'd add my information.

I have a stroker (U20 crank) with a Datsun competition oil pump (the standard pan will not bolt on with the pump on). Yesterday after a 4 month hiatus (40 degree F ambient), with 6.5 Qts of 20/50 oil, I pegged (beyond 90 psi) my OEM style gauge (even at idle)! As a reference, my old mechanical (SW gauge) commonly had pressures read in excess of 70 psi (but I do not recall if they were that high at idle, certain 20 psi per 1000 RPM was very common). After a 30 minute warm up, idle reads 80 psi or so. So adding to the mix of not sure on the accuracy of the OEM gauge. May update info as I get more "warm" weather driving in.

[msampsel]

I’ve never been able to seal oil pan gasket at torque figures quoted in factory manuals. It always leak so I’ve snugged them up quite a bit more. RMS seems a crapshoot, sometimes good sometimes bad even if done via instructions? I stuff a rag between the bell housing and pan rear like a diaper to keep garage floor clean.

Same here, had to snug up a few times (quite a ways beyond the torque specs too) to the get the comp pan with a comp seal to quit weeping. The rear main oozes though.

[redroadster]

The only benefit of 20w50 is
Under extreme full throttle / racing type service
It lasts longer won't burn off the oil film areas, in the valve stem and cylinders rings areas , race motors enlarge the stock oil passages x 2
but some additives friction modifiers help that too

Have you drained the oil to check for metal fragments
May have spun a rod bearing
Can try pulling a plug wire at a time to seeing it changes
The noise
@40 degrees 20w50 is practically butter ,only use it in hot summer

[C.Costine]

I have a U20 pump in my stroker and the gauge reads the same for the most part. Frankly I'm not that trusting about accuracy of the stock electric gauge. I've thought about hooking up a mechanical just to compare. As I noted before there is no lack of oil when I take the valve cover off or anything else. Have to keep a roll of paper towels handy.

Late to this party, but thought I'd add my information.

I have a stroker (U20 crank) with a Datsun competition oil pump (the standard pan will not bolt on with the pump on). Yesterday after a 4 month hiatus (40 degree F ambient), with 6.5 Qts of 20/50 oil, I pegged (beyond 90 psi) my OEM style gauge (even at idle)! As a reference, my old mechanical (SW gauge) commonly had pressures read in excess of 70 psi (but I do not recall if they were that high at idle, certain 20 psi per 1000 RPM was very common). After a 30 minute warm up, idle reads 80 psi or so. So adding to the mix of not sure on the accuracy of the OEM gauge. May update info as I get more "warm" weather driving in.

Have you tried a plugging a mechanical gauge in? What were your bearing clearances when assembling?