Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I am trying to figure out how to make the cover over the lines (under the fender) removable w/o removing the fender. But if the evaporator ever needs to come out, yes the fender will have to be removed.
Edit: If I design it right, I should be able to get to everything w/o the fender coming off if need be.

Would you have photos of the how the rear brake lines are plumbed though to the master cylinder?

As I disassembled my ‘69 1600 and labeled the multiple sections but the numbered pieces of tape fell of the lengths of piping.

I haven't connected the brake lines past my adjustable proportioning valve, which is mounted on the driver's side frame. On page 6 of this thread you can see some of the brake line stuff. Check out Spriso's build threads; I hope to do the front something like his. However I saved a FB post from someone who did a nice job too; pic's attached.

Made good progress on the AC evaporator cover box today. I also welded up the two holes in the back panel that held license plate lights. I wanted a cleaner look and will have the light for the license plate in the bumper.

One more part of the AC box complete, just one to go. I'm probably going to take a piece of silicone hose (slit it in the middle) to go around the metal to seal the gap completely. My doors and fenders are in a body shop finishing them up for paint. Next week the trunk and the hood should get done.

Putting A/C in a Datsun is such a challenge… Very Impressive

I continued working on the AC evap cover tonite, and almost have it done. My friend who works in a body shop brought back the fenders to put on the car for final checking (he had to weld new patches in the lower part in front of the rockers) to verify fitment before final prep for paint. I think we may actually get there.

Fenders look great!! Send your buddy my way .. I took my fenders and patch panels to a local shop and they had them for a month. They never ‘got to it ‘ and I’m stilllooking for a reputable shop.

The fenders look like they are mounting Spot-on with enough clearance. Great Job

AC Cover box is now done! The holes were harder to line up than I thought. Easy to do now, but it will be harder to do with the fender on so hopefully I'll never need to! Next up is the transmission cover plate for the larger 6 speed.

Hope you have enough clearance between the fender and condenser

Those two damn bolts at the bottom of the fender that go in to th e really clear panel drove me insane . What a PUA to break those loose and that to re align.

Your doing fantastic job fabricating..
This for the update and. Photos

Made pretty good progress on welding in a new part of the tunnel to clear the six speed, although still some to go. However, my attempts to weld up the crack in the trunk (from gas tank stress) were not as successful, no matter what I did I was having trouble blowing thru and there is another piece of metal on the underside such that you can't clean the backside nor get any copper or anything to pull the heat away. I have already put new gas tank supports on the frame so I'm not worried. I'll probably end up with some amount of filler here, although I'll try to add more metal if I can.

Don’t feel bad, that was the toughest welding I ever did. Back in the day I was pretty good at gas welding cracked motorcycle expansion chambers (lots of opportunities with my Suzuki TM 400) but I couldn’t seem to get anywhere with my trunk welds. It drove me to learn mig welding and finally got it but it wasn’t easy!

Had a similar issue with my welds on front section of the rockers , under the front fender at the base. I tried MIG and experimented with TIG. As a total newbie .

I d get half where complying with closing up a hole and then blow the sucker while hearing what my dad would advise.’Wall away and wait for a cooler head to think with. ‘

Yesterday was pretty good day. I got the roadster body off of the frame and on a rotisserie (never done that before). This will allow me to finish the tunnel repairs, fill all the dash holes that I won't need, and get rid of factory undercoating. I also was able to cut our the access port in the trunk and expand it's size to allow me to pull the GM fuel bucket that I'm going with, if the need ever arises. I have so much work yet to do, but I'm now getting to the point where when it goes back together, it is for the final time.

Now to the arduous task of removing the original undercoating. I plan on applying raptor undercoating to the underside and all inner fenders. Good news is that the undercoating is not falling on my head like it did with my Cutlass that I did last summer (I did not put that body on the rotisserie), and goes to the floor. But I can only do about an hour at a time with this, using a propane torch and a putty knife. An hour each day and I might have it close by the weekend. I'll still have to wire wheel it when I'm done with this phase.