Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

For reference, here is a new mount. This mount measures about 1-3/8" in height, base to top plate. Sorry that I can't answer the other question of how much clearance there should be, as my engine is out of the car at this moment. I don't remember there being ANY issue with clearance however.

I did find a picture I took that shows the relationship, but not a very good one, and no measurement of clearance - sorry

This doesn't look right (rear mount):
Dirty:


Slightly cleaner:



Driver side mount:



Is it missing a bracket, or is that the wrong bracket on there?

Dirt pile dislodged from rear mount:

I post here hoping that what I have is a simple fix.
So far, it's NEVER a simple fix.

I would definitely replace the fronts. The back is tough to see. There is a metal "hood" that covers 90% of the rubber piece. But I'd assume (that word!) that it is as old as the fronts, and that if the fronts were that worn, then the tranny mount would work that much harder, and it is probably in need of replacement.

Replacing these will probably smooth out your idle (it will feel smoother, doesn't actually affect performance!!), and reduce the flex in your exhaust, and driveline.
All are pretty easily replaced with no need to remove the engine to do it. Once the wallet extraction is completed, it's a pretty quick and easy job.

I'd hit the whole back end of the transmission with at least one can of degreaser first!!

Waddya mean, degreaser? That thing is so clean you could eat off of it.

One issue is that it still leaks a lot. I think it's the rear main. I've been trying to follow the advice of lots of people on here and not tearing it apart, and just enjoy driving it. But even the little things seem to turn into seven other things.

Maybe if I get enough beer I can get some people over here to help me out.

I've got a buddy that lives in Olney, with enough beer, he can fix anything.

Until you both sober up, and realize that the cat is in the intake manifold (perfectly fine, just cramped!)

Olney, eh?
What kinda beer does he like?

Got the old belt off by lifting the engine a little. But the new belt's the wrong size. Just got it today, and the parts book at the store had the belt listed. Not that I didn't expect it to be wrong.

On those cotton buffing wheels, are you supposed to use something to clean them with after they start getting black from using them to polish? Some of it scrapes off but i wondered if they can be washed in soap and water or something else should be used.

TIA

Linda

Linda wrote:On those cotton buffing wheels, are you supposed to use something to clean them with after they start getting black from using them to polish? Some of it scrapes off but i wondered if they can be washed in soap and water or something else should be used.

TIA

Linda

Normal tool is a dull hacksaw blade, Some people screw it to a board with the teeth just protruding. It gets pushed into the wheel with the blade parallel to the floor and combs the junk out. Have a firm grip on it. If you don't use the board, wrap the ends where you will hold it with thick duct tape.

Linda:
Using a "star-wheel" or sharp edge, run the wheel and scrape off the top "skin".
Careful on using the sharp edge as it can bite in and get yanked out of your hand, which is why a star wheel is nice.

You're basically shredding the top surface off. You can try washing, but it's usually quicker to remove the schmutz layer.

E

I got a Keyster carb kit from ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-1 ... ccessories" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The needles seem to be a slightly different size at the top, as they won't fit in the hole (I hate when that happens). Anyone have any experience with this? I mainly got the kit for the fuel valves, as I'm leaking fuel from my overflows. But that didn't fix it, so I thought I'd try some new needles.

duff me wrote:I got a Keyster carb kit from ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-1 ... ccessories" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The needles seem to be a slightly different size at the top, as they won't fit in the hole (I hate when that happens). Anyone have any experience with this? I mainly got the kit for the fuel valves, as I'm leaking fuel from my overflows. But that didn't fix it, so I thought I'd try some new needles.

I purchased a set of ADQ's from the local MG house and found that they had an extra sleeve where they are mounted in the piston. When I removed the sleeve, the needles themselves had a knurled finish that was slightly oversized for my SU's. I ended up very carefully using a finishing file on them to make them fit...keeping in mind that concentricity is super important. It worked fine (although I went back to the M39's for performance reasons).

Duff,
Did I mention I'm probably heading to Maryland first week of July?
Motor mounts are toast, trans mount is very likely a 2 piece model by now. I think I have spare motor mounts if you can't find a set, and if you do the Chevy Urethane trans mount, it doesn't care about the oil and it's cheap.
Now the bad part....
Since you need to remove all 3 mounts, may be a good time to clean the whole engine thoroughly and find the leak, and if needed pull the motor and fix the rear main, replace the mounts and spend a whole crapload of time and money on all the little things while you are there. (sorry, couldn't resist)

So, when you have the motor out of the car and hanging on the hoist, give a call, Mark and I will wander over, help change the mounts, drink all your beer and suggest ways to spend more money (including buying more and better beer), then we'll leave before any actual work begins. We'll come back when the beer arrives, and then maybe do some actual work.

Just gettin' back to this thread...

dbrick wrote:Duff,
Did I mention I'm probably heading to Maryland first week of July?

Nope. Sounds good.

dbrick wrote: Motor mounts are toast, trans mount is very likely a 2 piece model by now. I think I have spare motor mounts if you can't find a set, and if you do the Chevy Urethane trans mount, it doesn't care about the oil and it's cheap.
Now the bad part....
Since you need to remove all 3 mounts, may be a good time to clean the whole engine thoroughly and find the leak, and if needed pull the motor and fix the rear main, replace the mounts and spend a whole crapload of time and money on all the little things while you are there. (sorry, couldn't resist)

I was kinda thinkin' that. I was planning to pick up a chevy mount per your suggestion elsewhere. If you've got some extra motor mounts, I'd be happy to take them off your hands for you.

dbrick wrote: So, when you have the motor out of the car and hanging on the hoist, give a call, Mark and I will wander over, help change the mounts, drink all your beer and suggest ways to spend more money (including buying more and better beer), then we'll leave before any actual work begins. We'll come back when the beer arrives, and then maybe do some actual work.

Hey, now. I'll put up with a lot. But one thing I won't take is someone suggesting that you could find better beer anywhere other than my fridge. If there's one thing I don't skimp on, it's beer.

duff me wrote:Hey, now. I'll put up with a lot. But one thing I won't take is someone suggesting that you could find better beer anywhere other than my fridge. If there's one thing I don't skimp on, it's beer.

I say, throwing out a taunt like that without an address? Poor form old chap, poor form...