Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Thanks David,
My Spidey senses were telling me that. Looks right now. Thanks!

(Mockup of new gauges, a direct fit)

No problem, the dash is looking great! Who’s gauges are you using?

Thanks, they are from New Vintage USA and are designed and made in Michigan. The best part is that they are a direct fit (actually a hair undersized), so no dash mods required. They also have a five year warranty. A little bit less $ than Classic, but that isn't why I chose them.

It's their 1940 series. https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/1940-series/

Jon Frampton restored the clock (not shown), which looks better than new. Amazing.

Starter Issues !!. I'm sure the answer is staring me in the face but I'm dumbfounded on this one. Car will start just fine...but only when I jump start it. All other times when I try to start the car, the solenoid just clicks. Here's my trouble shooting steps so far:

67.5 1600.
Switched batteries. Thought maybe a bad cell - same result
Ran a 4 ga ground from the negative terminal on the battery to the frame rail next to the starter. Ran a ground strap from the same point on frame rail to the starter/engine housing. - same result
Switched starter with a spare gear reduction starter - same result
Switched the ignition switch with another switch - same result
Cleaned ground connections (neg to body, neg to frame rail) - same result

What I have not done yet: Replaced positive battery cable from positive terminal to starter.

Any ideas on what I might be missing?

Update: I had both the initial battery and the brand-new battery tested. Both tested bad. I really didn't think it likely that a brand new (Interstate) battery would be bad right out of the box so I moved to other possible causes in my troubleshooting . Boy, did I create a lot of work for myself. The simplest (although it may not seem at times plausible) solution is usually correct....duh. Appreciate the help.

CapCityRoadster wrote: Mon Nov 18, 2024 2:18 pm … Any ideas on what I might be missing?

1. I’ve learned over the eons (feels that long) that a good battery isn’t good until I’ve confirmed it myself - Go grab a multimeter.
Look for 12.6-12.8V across the terminals when not running and about 13.7-14.7V when it is running - Then load test it to be sure.

2. Can’t tell you how often I’ve come across battery or starter terminals/cables & connectors coated in non-conductive (or poorly conductive) grease - Clean, tight and dry is the key.

3. Recheck all ground wires and grounding surfaces. Recheck that all connections are tight - This is usually the bane of my (wrench turning) existence.

I’ve come across more DOA batteries in recent years. Did you jump start with spare battery or running car? Have you tried connecting both batteries in parallel to see if it starts? Sounds like you don’t have quite the oomph or current to start as everything else you did sounds good.

Where does this go...its listed on carpartsmanual for the roadster under wiring, but the part number the website gave it doesn't show where? Obviously engine.

Thanks

That looks like a grounding strap.
Can't tell how small the yellow end connector is, but I had one of these on my U-20 set-up to re-ground the temp gauge mount, a work-around for the "staple thru the rubber gasket" system that was baseline.
If a large connector, then this is for one of the major grounds, which are.... from memory (please correct me):
1. Battery to frame
2. Alternator to frame
3. Starter to frame
This all to make up for inadequate grounding from the factory, related to how loosey-goosey the engine mounts are, they are truly a rubber electrical insulator.

It looks like an adapter from a bullet connector to a bolt on connector. I would bet its used when the superseding part has a different connector.

Thanks. Wiring and connectors are small, so not a main ground point. According to carpartsmanual the part number isn't superceeded, or a later number. To me, the black sleeve indicates the purpose of shielding the wire from either heat or abrasion, or to aid proper insulation.

Carparts manual doesn't distinguish if its for a R16 or U20, so presume both?

The forked connector on the end looks like the other connectors on either side of the fuse box.

nismou20 wrote: Mon Nov 18, 2024 3:57 pm I’ve come across more DOA batteries in recent years. Did you jump start with spare battery or running car? Have you tried connecting both batteries in parallel to see if it starts? Sounds like you don’t have quite the oomph or current to start as everything else you did sounds good.

You were absolutely correct..... Brand new battery was DOA..
Thanks!

Sometimes it's the simplest issue... I was going to ask what the headlights looked like when switched on or what the volt meter read...
Be glad it's not a modern BMW battery replacement... I'm on a forum (own a 2005 X3 and a 2000 Z3) and the batteries are not only very specific but must be specially "recognized" by the computer or they won't work! That of course requires a special reader to pair them... can you say "dealer"?

Gregs672000 wrote: Wed Nov 20, 2024 6:43 pm the batteries are not only very specific but must be specially "recognized" by the computer or they won't work! That of course requires a special reader to pair them... can you say "dealer"?

Grrrrr ! !

How hard is it going to be, if possible, to pull out and replace a worm gear in the steering box with the steering box still installed in the car? Is it possible? Inquiring minds want to know.