Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

JT68 wrote: Sat Sep 04, 2021 5:56 pm That's an unusual one for sure..fortunately they don't typically come loose.

You might see if a 10x1.5mm bolt will thread into the cam--If so, it is a metric core.

If someone assembled it with a 3/8 bolt (3/8 is the correct bolt for a 3-main) , that would explain why it loosened up..

If the 10mm won't go in, it's likely the correct core and just poor assembly technique.

If you use the correct bolt, new lockwasher, clean everything really well and use some Loctite, that problem should be behind you. Glad you chased it down. Good job!

"If the 10mm won't go in, it's likely the correct core and just poor assembly technique"

Thoughts on that gouged bearing, any connection? There is nothing to explain all that metal in the pan other than a bad job by the machine Shop all those years ago compounded by not tightening up the Crank bolt.

https://vimeo.com/598029121

After! Probably needs some carb tune but wow

Do I get any credit for suggesting timing cover removal? Pat

Great job! Glad you persisted until you found the culprit . Engine sounds just fine now. CongratsDan

@Pat - partial credit for timing cover. lol!

Lesson learned next time check what Dan tells you to...

Did find out I need a new crank pulley. Mine is really bent.

https://vimeo.com/598071964

I also threw on my new tach cable from Sin City Datsuns and now I have a rock steady needle too!

My offer still stands, on the oil filter base. Pat

Pat, I sent the switch out as a freebie since the site has helped me so much.

And let's make sure we don't go down the rabbit hole of mixing metric and SAE cams and sprockets.

https://vimeo.com/598080910

check out that distortion...hoping I can find a good used one. Can't understand why you would powdercoat and install one that's that bad...

Do you want the oil filter base? Pat

I think I have this one sealed on the damaged area..just getting some seepage on the threads still. Was weird as I was dry for a while and they started again. I snugged it up some tonight hopefully that helps.

Wow, well done and congratulations! Really glad to hear of your success... welcome back to driving!

Now that’s more like it, congrats! Enjoy

We're alive again, until the next thing pops up. Seems my rear main/and or oil pan leak are not all the way better, even with Dean's thicker gasket. I'm slowly snugging the oil pan up as I don't want to warp anything.

Had a brief scare on my first test drive, power felt bad and I was running hot. Hmm, feels like timing. Get home and sure enough, I must have left the bolt too loose and pushed it back to 0 degrees when I was installing the new tach cable. Surprised it ran as well as it did. Put it back to spec and feeling great, throttle response feels better in all gears and the sluggishness in 2nd seems gone.

Congratulations! I have been trying to follow this. Did you find a restriction to the rocker arm oil flow or did it turn out to be OK? I chased a leaking structural oil pan problem on one of my competition farm tractors for a couple years. The parts counter man noted at one visit that in an effort to solve it Ford had super-ceded the gasket six times and it was now over $100.00. I went back to an earlier paper thin gasket and put a coat of Permatex Form-a-Gasket on the pan ONLY. It has now been twelve years with no leak, and it has taken some heavy abuse. I encourage you to keep inspecting for oil tracks on the side of the motor. I was concerned that I had a rear main seal leak after just reinstalling the motor, but I finally found a leaking gallery plug on the back of the head. No matter where the leak is it drips from the block-transmission junction. Mine is now drip free.