K24A2 swap into 66

[Slackline]

Thanks. I think I'll need it.

Yes, the adapter was certainly the ticket. That housing has been discontinued and superseded. It is now made of a billet block of blue aluminum and is larger and interferes with the block. If you don't go this route, you will need the remote oil filter kit or have to cut the frame.

I spent 2 hours at Napa auto parts yesterday. The factory clutch hose is flared on the chassis side and uses the seal on the other. The Miata slave cylinder is inverted flare. None of the auto parts stores in town had any adapters that would work. I could not even find a combination of a different hose and adapter to make it work. Apparently the hose exists. It is from a 1978 MG MGB 1.8 rear brake line for disc brakes. In stock at Rock Auto. There is a place in town that will custom make the hose for me. I'll try there tomorrow.

[Slackline]

No joy on the first start.


Resolved a fuel pump issue, then a fuel line was leaking. I pulled the connector apart and there was a puncture in the internal carbonized teflon line. No marks on the stainless braid which leaves me to believe it was done in manufacturing. I cut the line at that point and I still have enough to reach so I will replace the connector. Don't have a spare.

Resolved the clutch issue and bled the clutch line.

Cranked the engine over a few times, but that was the end of my excitement for the day.

I'll get a new connector for the fuel line hopefully tomorrow and try again.

[Slackline]

Success!

A local race shop had the fuel line fitting.

The first start would not stay running because I did not adjust the throttle body idle stop screw. Once adjusted it ran on its own. The air filter touches the hood, so I need to get that sorted out and then I can insert the inlet air temp sensor (currently just hangs there).

The exhaust just dumps straight down out the header. That is why it appears to be smoking. Didn't run it too long but did a few starts with it.

I need to adjust the alignment of the alternator. The belt seems to run a little towards the front of the crank pulley instead of in the center. Then bleed the brakes. Once that is done, I can drive it onto the trailer and take it to the muffler shop for an exhaust.

Video here

[Slackline]

Man, looking at that video - the shop sure gets messy. We went into a bit of a flurry towards the end with a bunch of little stuff going on.

[Gregs672000]

Woo Hoo, Congrats! Always a scary time followed by relief, satisfaction and then "what's next!?"

[onsight512]

Well done.

[Slackline]

Thanks. Huge relief.

Yeah, you never know if that used motor you just bought is a boat anchor or not. Definitely relieved to hear it start and run.

Looking closer at my belt situation, I will adjust the alignment a bit but the Honda pulleys have more of a v shape to the ribs while the belt I have is more square ribs. Unfortunately that was the only belt I could find to fit lengthwise. I could also try a 5 rib instead of a 6 rib belt...

[Slackline]

Sorry, meant 6 rib instead of 7 rib belt.

[Slackline]

Did a little massaging of the brackets and ears on the alternator. Everything lines up better now. The belt is a little jumpy, but I am going to wait for my exhaust to be done and get it running better before worrying about that.

[Slackline]

Bled brakes. Had a leak at the rear flex hose to body line. The old fitting was very tight coming off and also the new one going on and I didn't want to crank down too hard. As you know, if you go a little too far, you can create a LOT of new work. Tightened it up a bit more and it sealed properly.

I put the rear of the car down on the ground with the front still on the race ramps. That allowed me to pour an additional gallon of coolant in. It also exposed another problem. Instead of plugging a port on my upper coolant housing, I put a temp sensor in there to use for my gauges since the ECU uses the factory one. Well by the time I ordered my third sensor and got the correct one the engine was in the car. I believe that the threads were not cut all the way through on the housing for the sensor. It would get tight and when I backed it out, you could see the first threads getting shiny like they were galling/cutting the aluminum housing. Well, that was leaking. So I tightened it a couple more flats and it sealed to the washer. I have a tap for the hole just in case, but it would be like building a ship in a bottle to get back in there. It is roughly where the heater core hoses are.

Next will be testing it under its own power. Making sure the clutch has proper throw, brakes work, drivetrain works, etc. Once that is done, I will drive it on to the trailer and get it to the shop for the exhaust.

I am going with 2.5" exhaust. I am going to have to cut the bottom section of the frame where the current holes are. Once the exhaust is in, I am going to weld 1/4" plate back where the frame cutouts were. Unless anyone else has other ideas on that?

[Gregs672000]

Regarding the exhaust, sounds like a plan. One change that was done on my exhaust this last time was to put the flex coupler section in between the x frame, not directly after the header, as the mount for the exhaust pipe there always seems to go bad. No matter what material you put in there it eventually burns away or deteriorates. This has allowed for flex without frame to pipe contact, and no need for a front exhaust mount.

[Slackline]

Interesting.
Thanks for the input Greg. Good to know.

I'll discuss it with the exhaust guy when I drop it off.

[Gregs672000]

Stock pretzel mount design may work but I no longer had one and things were just to buggered to make one work, or fit the 2.25 pipe. The shops have always worked something up that's welded to the pipe and tied to the frame that would use some kind of material to reduce vibration etc, but it would inevitably melt, the bolts would then loosen and things would rattle. With no front mount and the flex where it is things can move a little without issue, and the rear mount is less hot so the anti-vibration material doesn't burn away in a month or two, and the whole thing can be more firmly bolted down. I have no rattle.

[Slackline]

Thanks.

I have to cross over behind the pan, so maybe I will get enough cooling to that point. I'll see what he says...

[Slackline]

Today, I put the car back on the ground. I forgot how low it was. LOL.

Checked brake and clutch functionality then took it around the block a couple times. Needs a tune and an exhaust, but it kept running. The engine still had not warmed up enough to open the thermostat nor turn on the cooling fan. I let it idle in the driveway for a couple more minutes and the thermostat opened and the fan kicked on.

After it cooled off, I topped off the coolant.

I'll talk to the exhaust shop on Monday to see when they can get me in.