Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Nicely done Dan!

Thanks, I just wish it was on the road. The weather was terrible when it broke, now it's mid 80s and sunny for a week... while I wait for my shipment. I even have a full tank of gas.

so is that silver paint?

Looks great!

No that is the bare metal after it was stripped, I sanded after. It is painted flat black.

Well, so far so good on the new 5/8 clutch master. Beck Arnley Part Number 072-6521. Just need to wait for the girlfriend to stop by tomorrow to pump the pedal so I can bleed the line.

The parts next to each other, I did have to trim the rod about an inch as you can see it would never fit on the pedal arm.


Out with the old.


In with the new, no issue there.


I had wanted to reuse the old Nabco reservoir. One because it had a strainer inside, two I can reuse the metal cap.


Unfortunately it was too tall, so I had to stick with the new one. On the plus side, my hood now closes properly for the first time since ownership. It would always be 1/4" higher on the drivers side, and now I know why. The brake lines were easy enough to bend slightly to fit, and the flares were the same.

Slave cylinder is on, rubber line replaced and the fluid is bled. First drive out I couldn't tell if I had the return spring on or not because the pedal is so light now. It's nice to not have a squeaky pedal, and with how easy it is to use now, I could probably teach my girlfriend to drive stick.

Was going to head out for a night drive yesterday, but my headlights were dim, the relay was sluggish and the voltmeter was reading low. Went out to diagnose it today and with the headlights on my right turn signal was glowing slightly. Pulled it apart and water fell out of the turn signal. The previous owner never tightened the sockets to the body that well and the gasket never sealed, allowing water to enter and short the bulb. Luckily I had new sockets from the dealer when I swapped the old clear signal lenses with amber. Oddly enough the originals were held on by 3/8ths nuts and the new were 8mm and noted as year '67.

The old master cylinder in the picture with the crud on it is a brake cylinder not a clutch cylinder. Probably 3/4".

Stan

Yea, that's the conclusion I came to, it was 3/4".

fossil wrote:The old master cylinder in the picture with the crud on it is a brake cylinder not a clutch cylinder. Probably 3/4".

Stan

Stan, Would that be a stock brake master for 65-67? Might be worth it for someone to rebuild.

Dan, I have a few dual master cores if you want one to rebuild and swap out later. we need to get together this year, same state and all.

I'm not worried about the brakes just yet, it's probably the best part about this car, once I bled them they can lock up all four wheels when necessary, which has happened a few times. Now that I said that...

I wish you lived further south, long trips especially on the highway are quite the white knuckle trip. I hopped on the highway for the first time a month ago and found out I keep up with traffic at around 3k rpms in 5th which is probably around 75 (speedo cable disconnected) Also the transmission likes to act up after it gets hot after an hour or so, I'm still fixing the quirks with this car... safety was not the number one concern from the previous owner. You would laugh at some of the stuff on this car... but I'm making progress, there's always something.

Dave,

The old one looks like an early 1600 brake master. It is a Tokico.

Rebuilding aluminum master cylinders is sometimes successful if the bore is in excellent condition. Sleeving the bores on the dual reservoir type is expensive since the hole is so deep.

Stan
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Just whoring my car a bit before the weather starts getting cold. This might be the last time I get to go driving at night before I need to wear a ski mask.

It never stops does it, saw a wet spot in the driveway.

Is that gear oil, or Brake fluid?