Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

spriso wrote:The lines that most body guys miss is the subtle crease going down the top of the front fender (most people will just round it out), and the slight change in the tail light panel as the panel transitions from where the lights are mounted to the center section. I have seen so many cars with totally straight tail light panels, and they should not look that way...

-m

So lets see if I've got this right,,,the rear panel is a compound curve from side to side,,,the tailites are flat. So from the inboard edge of the tailite flat (seam), there should be a slight bulge.

Gregs672000 wrote: When I did my friend Bill's car,,,,,,

Is that the SPL for sale at Dougs Lynnwood Dodge? they are asking 12,000!

No, that is the other one I did! The pics don't do her justice, and they tore off the cool but low front airdam we had on it. I did Bill McDermots '70, also known as "Dammit Bill!" or "tequila Bill" at Shasta.

Gosh Greg How many black roadsters? I should be leaning on you!

I felt I was making good progress until,,,, I did get the passenger door to the next stage. whew. More precip expected on WED

I was whining to one of my longtime pals about this snow and how its slowing the progress of my project. He said "dont you have one of those,,,,,,,"
yes,,,,, yes I do,,,ok I haven't seen it in years, but I know I have one. Supplemental heat,,,,, mental. LOL.

Ted Nugent, Stranglehold!!

A few hours of shop cleanup,,,Hey maybe I'll DRIVE Andy five feet this weekend, and throw down some whoop a$$ on those rear 1/4s!!

Where there's a will, there's a way!

Took awhile to clean up, but I've settled back in. Andys backed into a corner with no way out.
Looks as if someone didnt like the dish. Looks like bondo over paint. Does not look damaged from the inside, so I'll sand the bondo away to the OG paint and hope it looks right.
The tailights were the only lights that worked when I got the car.
I was a little apprehensive to disassemble them. Had to be done.
Wires are in good shape, nothing broke, Whew.

The 1/4s are big, probably will be as much work as the front fenders were. Thankfully not as awkward to handle. Working those fenders was like wrastling a gator.

Excellent progress David. Please keep us updated. Some of us have to live vicariously.

Gator wrastling.... lol

I had been dreading this task since day 1. Drilled 6 or 7 small holes in a chunk of leftover boot lid (secret project), and practiced. wow, buzzed up nice. Fight or flight.
hooked up to the car. buzz. this could have gotton really ugly really fast.
Whew.

Trying to sand above the seam and below seperatly, I was getting nowhere fast.
Laid a piece of 1/2 in tape in the seam and threw down.
If I find some trim someday ,,,I hope it fits.

David, why the acrylic lacquer primer? No worries of future shrinkage? especially as a base. Over bare metal, I prefer an epoxy or worse case a 2k DTM primer. TBH, I've never even seen an acrylic lacquer primer. Been doing this as a hobby since the 80's and can't recall using one.

Glad you're keeping the side trim. One of my biggest lessens learned; DON'T weld up the seam!!!. I had a piece of 20 gauge sheared to fit into the recess and welded it in prior to learning of the untempered nature of our steel. Coulda rode the waves from the tailights to the door handle. Even just doing spot welds every 4 inches. I'm one block sanding away from final prime on mine and have to say that this "little" round car has been one of my biggest challenges of all the vehicles I've painted in the past. I can certainly see why Spriso has been "through" many bodymen. That little triangular spot on the front upper of the quarter, right behind and above the door handle is rather special eh?

Keep at it, looking great.
Marshal

Andy's lookin Great David! Since I've only done Roadsters I don't know how other cars compare when doing body work. All of my cars have been dark... mine (black), a red one, then a dark blue, then 3 more blacks including the redo of my car (having learned a lot on the others!). Since I started with black I guess the difficulty of doing the body work has always been relative. I was fortunate to have had a very patient teacher who kept stating "You wanted it black, so it has to be straight or you won't like it." I'm quite sure your work is outstanding, and likely more technically correct. My work is based on a great deal of patience, so I don't get too frustrated when I'm on plastic application number 12 in the same damn spot! "You wanted it black..."

MSmethers wrote:David, why the acrylic lacquer primer? No worries of future shrinkage? especially as a base. Over bare metal, I prefer an epoxy or worse case a 2k DTM primer. TBH, I've never even seen an acrylic lacquer primer. Been doing this as a hobby since the 80's and can't recall using one.

Glad you're keeping the side trim. One of my biggest lessens learned; DON'T weld up the seam!!!. I had a piece of 20 gauge sheared to fit into the recess and welded it in prior to learning of the untempered nature of our steel. Coulda rode the waves from the tailights to the door handle. Even just doing spot welds every 4 inches. I'm one block sanding away from final prime on mine and have to say that this "little" round car has been one of my biggest challenges of all the vehicles I've painted in the past. I can certainly see why Spriso has been "through" many bodymen. That little triangular spot on the front upper of the quarter, right behind and above the door handle is rather special eh?

Keep at it, looking great.
Marshal

Ive always tried to kept things simple and costs down, bondo, primer, paint. There are alot of great products out there today, however I am hesitant to "start over". I have tried a few new products in the past, but ended up running into some sort of trouble with them.
Maybe we have materials lingering here that have been discontinued elsewhere. Products vary from store to store as well. Lately I've been visiting a couple of different places to get what I need.
Shrinkage?? Im not that fast anymore!!! Being a hobby for me now, I can afford to let materials gas off for months.
I agree there are some tricky lines on a roadster. I may have to fab some special blocking boards,,, I knew a guy back in the 70s that blocked his final primer wet with 600 and the old thick wooden stir sticks. a gazzillion hours there. (I use a foam pad).

Gregs672000 wrote:Andy's lookin Great David! Since I've only done Roadsters I don't know how other cars compare when doing body work. All of my cars have been dark... mine (black), a red one, then a dark blue, then 3 more blacks including the redo of my car (having learned a lot on the others!). Since I started with black I guess the difficulty of doing the body work has always been relative. I was fortunate to have had a very patient teacher who kept stating "You wanted it black, so it has to be straight or you won't like it." I'm quite sure your work is outstanding, and likely more technically correct. My work is based on a great deal of patience, so I don't get too frustrated when I'm on plastic application number 12 in the same damn spot! "You wanted it black..."

I try to keep my smears to 3, but then, as you say, it takes whatever it takes. I have learned alot from different people.
My # 1 is, NEVER prep like "the chrome will cover it", never.

I worked for a guy that only wanted to use Imron. Ever try to buff that stuff . I HAD to learn to lay down the topcoats early on so I would not have to cut and rub. Imron, sheez. great for wheels,,,,,,and truck frames,,,,can u tell I have cut and rub burnout?

Technical,,hmm,,,My brother once asked, dont you measure that stuff? When I was done with the repair he said I would make a good bartenter!

Taking advantage of the super nice 46 degree weather.
Used less filler above the wheel on this quarter than the left quarter, but a little more fore and aft. Laying on the red as a 4th coat, It stays wet a bit and I can see how strait it is,,,,I am stoked.
Please talk me out of 505
I keep reminding myself that this is an $800 driver,,,well $1600 now without the wheels ok $2400. bumpers, grill and side trim resto, ok $4100.
Ill be blocking twice. maybe.