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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 10:28 pm
by Lorna c
I think I'm going to put my old fuel lines back on with the 5/16 on the outgoing fuel side . the other is 1/4" fuel injection . just to check that possibility out . there's nothing else I've touched . float level seems fine and flow out the back carb is ridiculously ok amount going through .. I've adjusted the carbs to where they're choking in gas to way thin . flutters on heavy acceleration then I let off and it pops back normal sounding and feeling . until I go heavy again or about 3k rpms . anyway this isn't quick but it's stupid . . and thanks . I have some things to do . ..
while sitting it's doing fine . then I drive it and it's definitely fuel issue though . I haven't not reved it with watching how much comes out the exit line and for how long kind of test . I'll have more info or good news next . and maybe another thread. . it's own thread . if it stays around that is .. ok back to step one again . I'll be back .don't miss me . lololol and thanks everyone for your time
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:44 pm
by 2mAn
2mAn wrote: Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:31 am
I saw a video of another Roadster idling and his needle wasnt bouncing with nearly half the excitement that mine does. Is there any way to calm down that dancing needle?
Anyone have an idea? My car isn’t actually fluctuating in idle RPMs as the gauge suggests. Is this a case of needing a new cable? Tightening something?
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 12:01 am
by greydog
Hi Simon.
You may be able to reduce the bouncing if you remove the cable, clean it and live with a good cable lube.
Dan
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 12:05 am
by Nissanman
Highly likely that the tach cable inner is frayed or at least very dry.
Not hard to disconnect and withdraw the inner.
If the inner is fracturing the cable acts like a spring: it winds up and then releases, causing the needle to fluctuate.
Service Information
The following hints on installation are important:
Cable routing should be smooth. Minimum radius should be 6" (150mm).
Ensure that sharp bends and kinks are avoided, especially at supporting clips.
Ensure that connecting nuts are securely tightened by hand (not spanner or pliers).
Cables should be lubricated every 10,000 kilometers. Withdraw inner cable and smear lightly with Shell Alvania 2 or equivalent.
Avoid excess grease and do not use oil.
The performance of a speedometer/tachometer and the service life of the speedometer/tachometer cable depends on correct installation and maintenance."
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 11:38 am
by 2mAn
Thank you for the replies. Im sure the cable needs lubrication
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:13 pm
by bakerjf
Will the ring and pinion gears that come installed on a generic 3.7/3.9 open differential work with the Nismo LSD? Or, if setting up a LSD, does one have to source a R&P that works specifically with the LSD unit?
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:14 pm
by theunz
I believe the stock gears will work, however some of the optional lower ratio gears will require the use of a spacer.
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 1:27 am
by bakerjf
theunz wrote: Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:14 pm
I believe the stock gears will work, however some of the optional lower ratio gears will require the use of a spacer.
Thank you!
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 2:32 am
by spyder
bakerjf wrote: Tue Dec 25, 2018 1:27 am
theunz wrote: Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:14 pm
I believe the stock gears will work, however some of the optional lower ratio gears will require the use of a spacer.
If i recall correctly, there two ways to deal with the lower ratios. A 4 mm spacer for the 8 tooth pinon gear or the carrier designed for it. Good info here. I have a carrier with the added 4 mm added to it, I traded it with James for the guts. He got the normal carrier.
https://web.archive.org/web/20050209204 ... 0/lsd5.asp
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 9:59 am
by bakerjf
spyder wrote: Tue Dec 25, 2018 2:32 am
bakerjf wrote: Tue Dec 25, 2018 1:27 am
theunz wrote: Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:14 pm
I believe the stock gears will work, however some of the optional lower ratio gears will require the use of a spacer.
If i recall correctly, there two ways to deal with the lower ratios. A 4 mm spacer for the 8 tooth pinon gear or the carrier designed for it. Good info here. I have a carrier with the added 4 mm added to it, I traded it with James for the guts. He got the normal carrier.
https://web.archive.org/web/20050209204 ... 0/lsd5.asp
Thank you for the link - good info!
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2018 12:01 pm
by 2mAn
I just picked up a 4.375 and plan to build it up with a LSD as well... where can you get that 4mm spacer? I looked at the link and it says its N/A
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2018 5:54 pm
by bakerjf
2mAn wrote: Wed Dec 26, 2018 12:01 pm
I just picked up a 4.375 and plan to build it up with a LSD as well... where can you get that 4mm spacer? I looked at the link and it says its N/A
As I read the tech page, you only need the spacer if the LSD is the one with the part number that ends in A9980 (and only then if you use the taller gears). If you have the other type LSD a spacer is “n/a†(not applicable).
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 8:28 am
by C.Costine
What color is the radiator air scoop supposed to be painted. I have never seen anything but black, but since it would so easily get dinged and start to rust many owners would be inclined to paint them, and take the easy way out and paint them black like so many engine compartments are.
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 11:59 am
by 2mAn
I dont ever plan to use my wipers, but my blades are so bad I figure I should replace them.
I had in my notes that I should replace them with Trico 47-600, but they say they can be cut down to 16" and I think thats still too long. I measured last night and it looks like they need to be around 13" long so those Trico wont work.
Anyone know which ones I need?
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 1:53 pm
by cktrap
Use the ones that fit,lol. I took my wiper arms to the parts store and found a pair that fit. They where in the back with blades for older cars. I didn't have to modify them at all. Like you though I've never used them. They're for safety inspection only