Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

spl310 wrote:The "lift the dot" fasteners should point towards the front of the car.

Thanks SPL (I think). Luckily I don't stress too much about these type of things since I seem to do them all the time.
Looks like I have a soft-top and a boot cover that are "incorrect".
Think I can make the boot cover work without any issues but I don't think I will touch the soft-top.

Zogster wrote:

spl310 wrote:The "lift the dot" fasteners should point towards the front of the car.

Thanks SPL (I think). Luckily I don't stress too much about these type of things since I seem to do them all the time.
Looks like I have a soft-top and a boot cover that are "incorrect".
Think I can make the boot cover work without any issues but I don't think I will touch the soft-top.

Don't feel bad. The vast majority of aftermarket tops are installed that way. The down side is that the backing plate tends to chip the paint when installed that way.

Installed Marchal driving lights on my car. Haven't wired them yet. Just barely clear the hood when it's open. Love the way they look.

Installed new u-joint between tranny & driveshaft.
Now I know what a failed u-joint sounds like at 65mph. A couple of bangs when the caps come off, followed by an incredible vibration. Fortunately it happened close enough to home, so I could drive home at <10 mph.

It seems that the locking rings/shims that come with the Precision Part #391 (recommended per Wiki) are a 'tad' thicker than the originals and causes the ujoint to bind a bit.

Anyone else had this experience?

I was trying to isolate a vibration problem, so I swapped the Shelby/Libre wheels off for the Westerns that were on the 69. Really look nice, I might leave them on the car. Still have a vibration at 60, but a little different. These were static balanced years ago and were OK, but have been sitting 2 years in the shed, so I'll get them balanced.
I won't trust the shops to balance the Shelbys, damn center caps are very easy to leave loose and very hard to replace.

mraitch wrote:Installed new u-joint between tranny & driveshaft.
Now I know what a failed u-joint sounds like at 65mph. A couple of bangs when the caps come off, followed by an incredible vibration. Fortunately it happened close enough to home, so I could drive home at <10 mph.

It seems that the locking rings/shims that come with the Precision Part #391 (recommended per Wiki) are a 'tad' thicker than the originals and causes the ujoint to bind a bit.

Anyone else had this experience?

Did the new one fail at 65, or you noticed the clips when replacing the old one which failed?

@dbrick.
I bought a new ujoint Precision 391 from O'Reillys. Had the DEVIL of a time getting the 'supplied' clips in, and when I did so the u-joint was really stiff. They are about 1/32 wider x 2 = 1/16 reduction overall. Using the original clips, they fitted fine and are appropriately 'loose'. Replaced the clips at the rear as well.

Will be taking along a spare u-joint in future (just in case).

Now I know how to do it by the roadside.

Started disassembly on the front brakes to do the Volvo conversion. Can't wait to finish! So far its been way too easy to remove pieces. I think Something terrible must be on the horizon haha.

-fixed the horn
-fixed the rear license plate light
-installed new fuel bowl needles/valves
-mounted my fire extinguisher
-trimmed my freshly installed windshield trim, then remounted the rearview mirror

I finished stripping the frame of all parts. Now to get it blasted or dipped. Got the axle collar off one axle and blasted the backing plate. It looks much nicer without all the rust and grease.

@mainer311 - hope you installed the extinguisher where you can reach it from the driver side <G>

mraitch wrote:@mainer311 - hope you installed the extinguisher where you can reach it from the driver side <G>

It's centered directly in the middle of the vertical package shelf wall. I can reach it no problem.

Took the passenger front suspension apart to clean, paint and replace the non existent rubber boots with urethane.
Already went thru the drivers side.
It appears I've gotten lucky with this car. Tie rod ends and ball joints are all tight although some movve freely, none have any discernible slop. Calipers are in good shape and when the pistons are compresses the brake fluid is clean(ish). Center link is nice and tight, wheel bearings are smooth and the seals are not leaking.
It's got fairly new (still silver with red writing) KYB GR2 shocks and the brake flex lines are in good shape.

I did notice that the idler shaft moves vertically in the housing by .050 or so although there doesn't appear to be any play other than the vertical movement. My fsm (if you can call it that) doesn't specify and allowable limit. Does anyone know what's normal?

Today I replaced my clutch slave cylinder hose. Mine was pretty corroded so it seemed like the right thing to do.

I have a couple of other things I need to get to. HID light install is high on the list now that my parts are all in, SS brake lines too.

Fixed the ignition switch, tuned the SUs, and finally hunted down some screws for my original headlight and washer knobs. Also pulled off the dash cover and let the original split dash shine in all it's glory for the first time in years. Didn't like the way the cover looked.