Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

theunz wrote: Tue Dec 11, 2018 5:52 pm Well, you could cut a hole in the bell housing, torch the old bearing out, saw the new one in half and then weld it back together after placing on the shaft. It might be better to just pull the engine
Seriously though, some have cut out the X frame to remove the transmission. Seems like as much work as removing the engine.

Always did want to practice my precision torch cutting and welding!!!

Danny_Vilato wrote: Sun Dec 02, 2018 12:03 pm Will a throw out bearing from 510 fit the 5speed in a roadster?
Ie Koyo brg002.

if it doesn't fit I have an extra from a 1600 four speed (if that's the same ) if you want it I can mail it to you . just saying .. idk how much they are $$ , if they're too cheap to worry about . but I threw it out there anyway just in case .. enjoy the resto

Much easier to r/r engine/tranny. If you have everything you need (hoist and leveller) it can be a day, (with a pizza/beer oving buddy) as long as you don't get into the "while I am theres". AND depending upon your knowledge of how old components are, good time to consider new clutch and pilot bearing and also front seal. while you can 'trash' the old bearing, you would ideally need to have the new bearing pressed on by a machine shop.

FWIW

Hello everyone.., shamus here. Can anyone here tell me if swapping out a original oil pan with a comp 7qt pan would be disastrous if the car has already been lowered?? The photo above should give you an idea of the clearance. I live in Chicago with pothole lined streets. I’m afraid it may tear off the comp oil pan since it would hang a bit lower than the stock. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

I would not do it Shamus

Shamus980 wrote: Sat Dec 15, 2018 6:39 pm Hello everyone.., shamus here. Can anyone here tell me if swapping out a original oil pan with a comp 7qt pan would be disastrous if the car has already been lowered?? The photo above should give you an idea of the clearance. I live in Chicago with pothole lined streets. I’m afraid it may tear off the comp oil pan since it would hang a bit lower than the stock. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Alvin has some lovely pics that might influence your decision.

Shamus, it looks like you have about the same clearance as I do. I have no more than 3" of clearance with the comp pan! I am running Dean's super comp springs and 195/60/14 tires. I have driven the car very few miles since installing the springs and I'm scarred to death every time I see a bad place in the road. Dean says that if you can fit a dollar bill edgewise under the pan that you are good to go! Not really buying that myself. I know that a few years ago Alvin broke his pan, on a rock I believe. Would be interesting to hear what others have to say.

I did read about Alvin’s “Rock disaster” and lucky for him someone was nice enough to trailer it home for him if I’m not mistaken.
The question arose subsequent to reading a post here on 311 regarding the solex comp package. I have the twin 44 mikuni’s being restored by “ Eiji @ Datsun Spirit” in Manassas VA. He tells me the twins were in good shape for their age and were apparently period correct carbs made especially for nismo. With the “Don’t half ass it” mentality that I’m cursed with., I figured since I MAY have the comp package engine (still to be determined)., why not do the Full Monty??? Thanks for the input fellas. Your advice helped me avoid a future headache. Does a U20 need that much oil? Or is that pan for cars geared for race track use?

What is the hose for that comes across your valve cover and goes toward the front carb? If it's for a vacuum advance on the distributor than it shouldn't be there. The Solex's don't use a vacuum advance, but they do require a non smog distributor and different timing. And you are right, the comp pan was designed fo racing, not needed for the street, but like the solex's a cool touch!

Hey Mike... I’ve begun to dismantle the engine for a thorough rebuild. It is after all., 50yo and I don’t know what the previous owners have done. I want her road worthy and reliable to drive from Chicago to Solvang for the meet. The hose you are referring to would be the fuel line.
Based on your reaction., I’m taking that it’s not supposed to be there..??? Well., the good thing is when I put this back in I will clean the engine bay up a bit and Uncluttered the lines and shore up the wiring. This site is great. I learn a bit everyday from all of you and my anxiety from this project goes down. Lol. Thanks again.

No, not the fuel line. The smaller on that is under the fuel line.
You are definitely right about 50 years of PO's running wires and hoses everywhere. Mainly just wanted to be sure you knew not to run a vacuum advance with the Solex's. Looks like you're off to a good start!

Believe it or not., it actually is the fuel line. I pulled the hoses off and labeled each of the lines I disconnected. It’s been several weeks since I messed with her. But if you zoom in on the pic below., there is tape saying it’s the fuel line. The smaller tube is from oil pump to the dizzy.

I saw a video of another Roadster idling and his needle wasnt bouncing with nearly half the excitement that mine does. Is there any way to calm down that dancing needle?

would a "wear hole" on the fuel fill neck pose any issues for the car . this is in the trunk -fuel fill hole neck .what is it called ? but does this need to be sealed too ?

Everything fuel related needs to be sealed so you don't have a fire
Linda