Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Got the coolant hoses mocked up. Also completed the heater hoses including a solenoid heater valve.


Now I am working on the throttle cable. Need to make/find a bracket to go on the rear fuel rail bolt.

Looks like it's coming right along!

It's gonna be nuts when completed. Thank you for paving the way!
#kswaptheworld

It is getting there...
I'll post the resolution to my oil filter/frame interference once solved. I don't want to cut the frame there.
Thermostat housing is in a bad place. The 'adjustable' ones online are larger than the original, which would make the problem worse. I'll get pics of that eventually as well.
I have had quite a few delays on getting some of the parts. Everyone blames Covid. Some of them I believe, and others are so disorganized that I am not so sure I believe them.

I hope I can hear this thing run soon... I need a boost of motivation.

Got a little more done today.

Cleaned up some wiring. Installed the fan relay. Connected the reverse light switch on the trans to the wiring harness. Ran the cable for the O2 sensor through the firewall.

Once I make the fuel line to go from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, I will be ready to install the intake. Once the intake is on, I can install the alternator.

I just got the driveline back from the shop. The stock driveline was only 1/8" off from my measurement. But, they don't have a "conversion" u joint for those two sizes (existing driveline and Mazda yoke). So, they put a new end on and balanced it. Also just received my rear Bilsteins from JT.

Need to mount the ECU, and wire it up.

Still waiting for my oil filter adapter. Can't start it without an oil filter. Well, it won't run for very long without it.....

Some pics..

A couple more pics
In this picture you can see the water pump inlet barely clears the frame. I actually have to take it off to get the motor in and out. I relieved the lip on the frame and it is still very close. The radiator hose clears the frame and the steering shaft. I'll have to keep an eye on it to make sure it stays clear after driving it for a while.


This picture is where the oil filter goes. It will hit the frame if I try to put it on and I would have to lift the motor to do so. Not a good place to notch the frame. I have seen others weld steel pipe to get clearance for the filter, but I have ordered a 90 degree filter adapter for Honda that will point the filter forwards where I have clearance. I wanted to avoid the remote filter.

I am waiting for the filter adapter from a company that I won't mention. They are not responsive to email and they do not operate as their website states. If I were to do it again, I would get a more commonly available unit and have a machine shop create a new oil filter stud (support) with the threads on each side that fit the block and the oil filter adapter.

Spent a couple hours on it today. Cleaned up some wiring. Put the intake on it. Installed the throttle cable. Installed the alternator.

You may have already mentioned this, but what are you using to run the injection system... Honda computer?

Yes, with Hondata.

This is my first fuel injected engine swap. So, I am not sure what problems I might run into. Last minute curve ball was that one of the wiring harness plugs went to the body, not the ECU. So I had to get an adapter harness (since a 66 Datsun doesn't have a place to plug it in). I installed a second temp sensor for the gauge, since the original one goes to the ECU. Oil pressure will go to the gauge and not the ECU. All the ECU does with oil pressure is run the idiot light. ECU controls the starter, fan, fuel pump, spark, and injectors.

I am probably going to convert the headlights to LED after reading more about the stock wiring configuration. Even though I now have a ton of power available from the alternator, I don't like all the current going through the switches. I know I can re-wire, but I like the lower current lights.

I received my brake kit from Spriso. Waiting for the rotors now. I just received the last caliper, which took months. I went with the 26mm instead of the 30. Well, the 30mm brakes are much more common. This project will be put on hold until I make a decision on wheels.

Still waiting on my oil filter adapter. Getting ghosted from the vendor now. I could start the car tomorrow if I had that. I may have to bail out on that and just get a remote oil filter setup. That would give me more connections, more failure points, and more clutter. Great.

Finally, I hope my hood still fits. I checked it already, but without the intake on it. I'll need to do that this weekend.

This is what I am looking for.

I tried to find a machine shop that could make an adapter oil filter stud with the Honda block threads on one side, and the Ford threads on the other to accept this unit. Went by 3 shops, no luck. Was referred to a CNC shop, nobody there and no response. Emailed another CNC shop, never heard back.
Also, every place I could find is out of stock on these. Ford stopped making these and they have a new billet version that is big, clunky, and interferes with the Honda block. Bought it, had to send it back.

Even if I found one, I would have to find a machine shop that could make the oil filter stud for me.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear- ... VoEALw_wcB

You could possibly do something like this and remote mount the filter.

Yes. Thank you. That is what I was going to use if I could not get the one above. I was trying not to do the remote filter.

There is a company that makes the right angle adapter above for a Honda/Acura. I am waiting on my order from them.

I just got a shipment confirmation from the company that a package was sent to me. I guess they found one and shipped it out. No response to any of my emails, but a package was shipped...

Fingers crossed.

I got the filter adapter and installed it.

It solves my filter interference issue.

Going to try and start it on Sunday. I need to get my clutch slave cylinder issue resolved. The stock slave line threads into the new slave cyl but it won't go in all the way. Different style connector. I don't know my terminology on those fittings. Hopefully I can find an adapter or new line to fit the Mazda Miata slave cylinder.

Good luck with your first Start! The oil adapter works PERFECT! Kinda nice when you get something and it solves the problem without needing a bunch of modification, eh?