Hey Will, I do not think anyone of the swap guys has given you a hard time. We all hope you get your problem solved soon. It is frustrating when things happen in waves and man you have been hit by a few tidal waves. This problem you are having has a simple solution and you will never forget it once you get it figured out. We all get frustrated once in a while. Hang in there that U20 rocket will be tearing up some roads sooner than later.
Steve
WTF, No Spark
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S Allen
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RE:No Spark
Last edited by S Allen on Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
66 Stroker-Going Orange
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67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
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TR
Hello to everyone reading,
Now that Steve has made peace, I'll disturb it!
Will said he didn't want to hear "I told you so" from the engine swappers because it wasn't something wrong with the engine.
Well, last I checked, I still have that big jumble of wires on my floor (which was one of Will's reasons for not swapping his engine in a previous thread), BUT...That big jumble of stuff is still getting an awesome spark to the coil-on-plug system that makes my roadster both purr and roar...
So, maybe I didn't say, "I told you so", but make sure you get your car running for Solvang!
Good luck with it Will, I'm sure you will figure it out shortly, it sounds like you are close. TR
Now that Steve has made peace, I'll disturb it!
Will said he didn't want to hear "I told you so" from the engine swappers because it wasn't something wrong with the engine.
Well, last I checked, I still have that big jumble of wires on my floor (which was one of Will's reasons for not swapping his engine in a previous thread), BUT...That big jumble of stuff is still getting an awesome spark to the coil-on-plug system that makes my roadster both purr and roar...
So, maybe I didn't say, "I told you so", but make sure you get your car running for Solvang!
Good luck with it Will, I'm sure you will figure it out shortly, it sounds like you are close. TR
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toolsnob
Engine Woes
Will,
I know that you haven't met me and I am not trying to slam you on the forum. I have learned (through 23 cars) that sometimes you can't fix everything yourself. There was one time I redid the whole top end of a toyota 3vze v6 motor to only get it all togther and have it not start. So I pushed it to the mechanic and he figured out I was 2 teeth off on the distributor. When he told me I felt like an idiot and I was out $200 but the truck ran perfect and I was on my way.
If I lived by you I would be one of the guys under the hood of your car in the middle of the night trying to sort it out. So my appologies if you felt insulted but there is no shame in knowing your limits and seeking professional automobile help.
I'll meet you at Solvang in 05.
Alexi
I know that you haven't met me and I am not trying to slam you on the forum. I have learned (through 23 cars) that sometimes you can't fix everything yourself. There was one time I redid the whole top end of a toyota 3vze v6 motor to only get it all togther and have it not start. So I pushed it to the mechanic and he figured out I was 2 teeth off on the distributor. When he told me I felt like an idiot and I was out $200 but the truck ran perfect and I was on my way.
If I lived by you I would be one of the guys under the hood of your car in the middle of the night trying to sort it out. So my appologies if you felt insulted but there is no shame in knowing your limits and seeking professional automobile help.
I'll meet you at Solvang in 05.
Alexi
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SLOroadster
- Roadsteraholic
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well my coil wasn't fried before, but it is now. I would take the car to someone, but there isn't anyone here that I would trust to work on it. Also I can't afford to take it anywhere. After this engine rebuild (and a few other untimely manditory expenses, I have no cash at all.) I need the car to work so I can get on with my life, and lower my stress level 100 points. At this point I am so sick of woking on it that I'm almost willing to trade the car for a big Mac and a soda.
Will
Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
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spl310
- Roadster Guru
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Will,
DON'T DO IT!!! hold out for some fries too....
Just kidding. I have been there man. Back in College when I had a roadster as a daily driver, it started having nickle and dime issues. I sold it in a rash decision and have regretted it since. Yes, it was a bondo infested, faded paint, raggedy interior driver, but for a 1600, that thing would haul the beans!! The failures I should add never left me stranded. I always drove it home - just with some odd things going wrong.
Keep the faith and start from the simple stuff. Check at the switch and go all the way through it. Take your time and have someone double check it.
Best of luck.
DON'T DO IT!!! hold out for some fries too....
Just kidding. I have been there man. Back in College when I had a roadster as a daily driver, it started having nickle and dime issues. I sold it in a rash decision and have regretted it since. Yes, it was a bondo infested, faded paint, raggedy interior driver, but for a 1600, that thing would haul the beans!! The failures I should add never left me stranded. I always drove it home - just with some odd things going wrong.
Keep the faith and start from the simple stuff. Check at the switch and go all the way through it. Take your time and have someone double check it.
Best of luck.
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
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1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
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TR
This is becoming super repetitive, but get a cheap coil. Even a $5 job from a junk yard will get you going so you have some wheels. If you really have isolated the troubles to the coil, which it sounds like you have from your posts, swap out the MSD crap and get your car running.
I'm always surprised by how many people swear by MSD stuff. It is expensive eye candy on anything but an all out drag motor and is prone to a variety of problems, just not worth it in my book. Show me dyno curves or prove that the cold start performance is better, I just don't think so...
Look at all of the trouble it has caused you, worth it for the red color and graphics?
Off the soapbox, TR
I'm always surprised by how many people swear by MSD stuff. It is expensive eye candy on anything but an all out drag motor and is prone to a variety of problems, just not worth it in my book. Show me dyno curves or prove that the cold start performance is better, I just don't think so...
Look at all of the trouble it has caused you, worth it for the red color and graphics?
Off the soapbox, TR
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spl310
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I have known more folks that had failures from MSD pieces than have had good service. I just don't think I want their products.
I would like to try the Gary Boon dizzy, but for now the stock points and stock hitachi coil do the job...
I would like to try the Gary Boon dizzy, but for now the stock points and stock hitachi coil do the job...
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
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SLOroadster
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 5360
- Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2002 2:53 am
- Location: Napa Ca
I don't think the MSD stuff has anything to do with it. The 6Al wasn't even connected when I fried the coil. I had a bad voltmeter that wasn't telling me anything and the colors of the wires didn't match the wiring diagram. I hooked the wrong wire up and fried both the coil and my dizzy.
I have either a bad ground (unlikely), or a short in the harness (more likely) or perhaps a bad switch at the key. Or it could be all the above. Last night I had spark while on the starter, but none after a turned it to run. Today I didn't have either, and while trying a combination out the dizzy went POP and started smoking. After that I couldn't even get a spark doing a direct jump from the battery to the coil.
Will
I have either a bad ground (unlikely), or a short in the harness (more likely) or perhaps a bad switch at the key. Or it could be all the above. Last night I had spark while on the starter, but none after a turned it to run. Today I didn't have either, and while trying a combination out the dizzy went POP and started smoking. After that I couldn't even get a spark doing a direct jump from the battery to the coil.
Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
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Redtail
Sounds rough Will. Has that part of your harness been mucked about with ever? I would think that would increase the chances of a short somewhere. I just got a hold of a GB EI distributor (thanks Steve!) and it really is as good as everyone has said. A noticable differance all through the rev range. I know the funds are short right now, but it might be worth a look if your dizzy ends up needing a replacement.
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hport
- Roadster Fanatic
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RE : Piece of S#%@ !!!!
Will,
I do this for a living so bare with me. Can you put in order 1 thru ? what happened. Then what you have done to date ?
I haven't been following your issue here because it look like there was so many replies, I thought you would come across your demon by now.
If you had spark while cranking, did it fire and run ? If so, you need to only look at the run side of the iginition switch forward to the ballast ( if you still run one)
It might not sound like it to you right now, but the problem will not be a hard one. It is just going back to the basics with a clear head, a wiring diagram and a DVOM. Do you have someone that can help, they don't need to be car person, just someone who can be there to help and read the wiring diagram with you.
Assemble the following: a known good coil, good set of points, a good condenser, a good dist. cap and rotor, a known good coil wire, a known good ballast resister. The rest is + voltage and grounds ! Cheers, JC
I do this for a living so bare with me. Can you put in order 1 thru ? what happened. Then what you have done to date ?
I haven't been following your issue here because it look like there was so many replies, I thought you would come across your demon by now.
If you had spark while cranking, did it fire and run ? If so, you need to only look at the run side of the iginition switch forward to the ballast ( if you still run one)
It might not sound like it to you right now, but the problem will not be a hard one. It is just going back to the basics with a clear head, a wiring diagram and a DVOM. Do you have someone that can help, they don't need to be car person, just someone who can be there to help and read the wiring diagram with you.
Assemble the following: a known good coil, good set of points, a good condenser, a good dist. cap and rotor, a known good coil wire, a known good ballast resister. The rest is + voltage and grounds ! Cheers, JC
68 2000 solex
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SLOroadster
- Roadsteraholic
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I have all a new cap, a working balast, new coil wire, a new balast resistor, new wires, points, condenser, but I cant get it to run. I had it going fine for about 20 minutes, then it acted like I had no gas, but it was actually no spark. I could get it to run on the starter, but as soon as I turned it to run, nothing. I have checked the contacts for everythng and they look good. I have another coil, and I'm about to go try it.
Will
Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
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hport
- Roadster Fanatic
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- Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2004 7:54 pm
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RE : Piece of S#%@ !!!!
Will,
That's a start. If you have it running in the crank position and not in the run position, you have narrowed the problem down to the run side of the ignition switch. You may be losing +12 volts on the run terminal out of the ignition switch, or a bad wire from the switch to the ballast resistor. Here is where you get the wiring diagram out and start tracing the 2 circuits, the first one is the start circuit which we assume is working correctly, since you said it starts and runs if you hold the key to start. The second circuit will be the run circuit which at this point we will assume is faulty ( open, poor contact, bad fuse, etc..) It's getting late here on the east coast, so get your wiring diagram out and have at it over a cold one, don't do it while your looking at the car ( distraction) Plan your diagnosis on paper than take it out and apply it to the car. If you look at one wire than try to trace it at the same time, it gets alittle confussing if you're not used to this sort of thing. Fuses, fuses, fuses ! I know everyone always says yes I checked them, yea but when and how long ago, you need to verify each step, before the next one, if not, you will end up.... well you know the rest ! You can do this no problem, just forget about all the things that came before, a look at it fresh ! With the wiring diagram in hand.
Hint : run a fused jumper from the battery + to the ballast input, this will by-pass the igintion circuit, if it runs fine the problem lies between the ballast and the ignition switch.
Happy hunting JC
That's a start. If you have it running in the crank position and not in the run position, you have narrowed the problem down to the run side of the ignition switch. You may be losing +12 volts on the run terminal out of the ignition switch, or a bad wire from the switch to the ballast resistor. Here is where you get the wiring diagram out and start tracing the 2 circuits, the first one is the start circuit which we assume is working correctly, since you said it starts and runs if you hold the key to start. The second circuit will be the run circuit which at this point we will assume is faulty ( open, poor contact, bad fuse, etc..) It's getting late here on the east coast, so get your wiring diagram out and have at it over a cold one, don't do it while your looking at the car ( distraction) Plan your diagnosis on paper than take it out and apply it to the car. If you look at one wire than try to trace it at the same time, it gets alittle confussing if you're not used to this sort of thing. Fuses, fuses, fuses ! I know everyone always says yes I checked them, yea but when and how long ago, you need to verify each step, before the next one, if not, you will end up.... well you know the rest ! You can do this no problem, just forget about all the things that came before, a look at it fresh ! With the wiring diagram in hand.
Hint : run a fused jumper from the battery + to the ballast input, this will by-pass the igintion circuit, if it runs fine the problem lies between the ballast and the ignition switch.
Happy hunting JC
68 2000 solex
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PROUD ROADSTER OWNER
WTF, No Spark !
Will : I've had a similar problem with my Roadster and traced it two different things !
1) Electric fuel pump was wired through ballast resister and not through ignition switch !
2) Electric fuel pump was supplying too much pressure overiding needle and seats so solved this with a pressure regulator and a new set of plugs now all I have to do is sychronize the carbs !!
I don't know if this will help but it's a stab in the dark and I was pulling my hair out and I don't have much to pull so I understand the frustration !! GOOD LUCK !! DON !
1) Electric fuel pump was wired through ballast resister and not through ignition switch !
2) Electric fuel pump was supplying too much pressure overiding needle and seats so solved this with a pressure regulator and a new set of plugs now all I have to do is sychronize the carbs !!
I don't know if this will help but it's a stab in the dark and I was pulling my hair out and I don't have much to pull so I understand the frustration !! GOOD LUCK !! DON !
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SLOroadster
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