I do not know if the alternators are different, sorry...
I hate to say it, but that still sounds like a burned harness. You should check these points to make sure:
White wire brings power directly from the terminal on the starter to the amp gauge. From the gauge, power leaves to the ignition switch and part of the fuse box. Those are the two lines that should have fuses added to them because they start fires. If you do not have power at the ignition switch, something is wrong in that path...
I highly recommend running new wires with fuses for the amp gauge and checking the harness for any shorts...TR
Electrical help please
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itsa68
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 832
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:24 am
- Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba,Canada
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
I agree with TR.
It almost seems as if the one of the whites wires from the starter that goes to the voltage regulator or or ammeter is pooched.
It also sounds as if your hot wire setup is putting power from the opposite side and bypassing the line which normally goes thru the ammeter.
Power has to go thru the ammeter first to supply the lights etc.
Excerpt from Rallye's Catalog:
If the alternator or positive wire of the alternator has shorted out the car will go dead, cant be pushed started and the lights will not work. The weakest link in the line fails.
The Rallye Roadster catalog insert book states" the ammeter gauge is usually the weakest link and can sometimes fail by itself."
Also they say that "if the amp gauge doesnt quickly burn out, the wiring harness becomes the fuse and will cook.
To help prevent this situation put a inline fuse or fusible link in the big wire (positive) off of the alternator, a 30-35 amp one should be enough."
I know that I have a fusible link under the dash for the amp gage but not the one mentioned above.
Ray B.
TR... where have you spliced in your fuses?
It almost seems as if the one of the whites wires from the starter that goes to the voltage regulator or or ammeter is pooched.
It also sounds as if your hot wire setup is putting power from the opposite side and bypassing the line which normally goes thru the ammeter.
Power has to go thru the ammeter first to supply the lights etc.
Excerpt from Rallye's Catalog:
If the alternator or positive wire of the alternator has shorted out the car will go dead, cant be pushed started and the lights will not work. The weakest link in the line fails.
The Rallye Roadster catalog insert book states" the ammeter gauge is usually the weakest link and can sometimes fail by itself."
Also they say that "if the amp gauge doesnt quickly burn out, the wiring harness becomes the fuse and will cook.
To help prevent this situation put a inline fuse or fusible link in the big wire (positive) off of the alternator, a 30-35 amp one should be enough."
I know that I have a fusible link under the dash for the amp gage but not the one mentioned above.
Ray B.
TR... where have you spliced in your fuses?
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TR
On my 1970, I put a fuse inline with the amp gauge. There really should be one at the starter as that would blow and save the car, but it sure would be hard to replace (especially at night).
I bought an inline fuse holder with long enough leads that allowed it to be tucked up in the dash and be pulled out for easy fuse replacement. Never blew a fuse, though...TR
I bought an inline fuse holder with long enough leads that allowed it to be tucked up in the dash and be pulled out for easy fuse replacement. Never blew a fuse, though...TR