I've got a problem with my 1969 SPL 311 1600 Roadster that I need some expert advise to solve ? I think the problem might be in the wiring but not sure ! Here is how it is wired ! Note : It has a petronix electronic conversion !
1) Red wire from distributor to + side of Ballast resister
2) Black wire from distributor to - side of coil
3) Ignition wire black with white stripe and red band to + side of ballast
resister
4) Jumper wire from - side of ballast resister to + side coil
LMK WHATS WRONG WITH THIS WIRING ? PLEASE !!!
The car wont start so I checked the fire from the coil wire and it was a yellow fire but couldn't get anything from the sparkplug wires !
The petronix conversion for this car is a stationary installation so gaping wouldn't be the problem ! I was wondering if there might be something in the module that is not allowing the spark to get to the distributor cap ? I'm baffled with this problem so any kind of help would be deeply appreciated !!! The last time I had the car running it seemed to have a lot of hesitation when I accelerated the engine so sychronizying the carbs was out of the question which was what I was trying to do and noticed an ignition miss prior to installing the petronix electronic ignition conversion kit !
I feel like a dummy !!!! THANKS DON !!!! HELP !!!!!
" HELP NEEDED "
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itsa68
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 832
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:24 am
- Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba,Canada
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Your 1) red wire from distib to ballast does not sound right.
Maybe this will help. Forget about the colors for the moment.
There are be two main wires, (A & B), that will be energizing the coil during the process of turning of the ignition switch to the start position.
In the 1st ignition key position ("ON" or "Run" if you prefer) the "A" wire will energize and will always provide power to one side of the ballast (SIDE "A").
In the 2nd ignition key position ("START") the "A" wire still continues to provide power to the SIDE A of the ballast resistor plus the "B" wire will now be temporarily energized during the time of starter motor cranking. This "B" starting wire will go directly to the + coil terminal to power it during starting.
You will notice that I failed to mention how the "A" wire finally gets the power to the coil because I only have it hooked to the ballast SIDE A. See explanation below.
The "B" wire has a spliced in jumper wire coming off of it just inside the loom. This jumper from the main B wire connects to the "SIDE B" of the ballast.
When the ignition key is returned to the ON (or Run) position after the engine has started, the power will be going thru the "A" wire, into the SIDE A of ballast, come out the ballast SIDE B and uses the above noted B jumper wire splice path to get the + coil.
The only other connection that you will require is a wire running between the -(neg) coil terminal and the distributor terminal to complete the circuit.
Clear as mud?
To find out which wire is the "A", remove both wires from the ballast and test to see which one is only powered when the key in the ON or RUN position.
(P.S.) If you're providing a separate new "B" jumper from the + coil to the SIDE B of the ballast resistor, make sure the old original B jumper splice has been taped off to prevent the main B wire from shorting out at the old splice point.
Hope this helps.
Ray B.
Maybe this will help. Forget about the colors for the moment.
There are be two main wires, (A & B), that will be energizing the coil during the process of turning of the ignition switch to the start position.
In the 1st ignition key position ("ON" or "Run" if you prefer) the "A" wire will energize and will always provide power to one side of the ballast (SIDE "A").
In the 2nd ignition key position ("START") the "A" wire still continues to provide power to the SIDE A of the ballast resistor plus the "B" wire will now be temporarily energized during the time of starter motor cranking. This "B" starting wire will go directly to the + coil terminal to power it during starting.
You will notice that I failed to mention how the "A" wire finally gets the power to the coil because I only have it hooked to the ballast SIDE A. See explanation below.
The "B" wire has a spliced in jumper wire coming off of it just inside the loom. This jumper from the main B wire connects to the "SIDE B" of the ballast.
When the ignition key is returned to the ON (or Run) position after the engine has started, the power will be going thru the "A" wire, into the SIDE A of ballast, come out the ballast SIDE B and uses the above noted B jumper wire splice path to get the + coil.
The only other connection that you will require is a wire running between the -(neg) coil terminal and the distributor terminal to complete the circuit.
Clear as mud?
To find out which wire is the "A", remove both wires from the ballast and test to see which one is only powered when the key in the ON or RUN position.
(P.S.) If you're providing a separate new "B" jumper from the + coil to the SIDE B of the ballast resistor, make sure the old original B jumper splice has been taped off to prevent the main B wire from shorting out at the old splice point.
Hope this helps.
Ray B.
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PROUD ROADSTER OWNER
"HELP NEEDED "
itsa68 (Ray B.) Thank you very much for your help in straightening out the ignition wiring ! I still have a problem though with the car it won't start !! I've done almost everything imaginable to correct the problem but must be missing something !! Fire from the coil wire is yellow and I have none to the plugs from the distibutor ! I concluded it could be the petronix ignition so I put the point distributor back in but still no results ! I noticed the the positive battery post was warm so I checked the grounding from the motor to the frame and replaced the groung strap but still the battery post is warm !! I checked the timing to see if the chain might have jumped but after bringing # 1 cylinder up it was evident that hadn't happened !! ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED !! I would love to drive this car this year beings I've only put 5 miles on it in 2 years !! HELP !!!!!!! ANYONE !!!!
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oilleak
Yellow spark sounds like a weak coil but I'd think it would at least try to catch if that were the problem.
Spark at the coil but not at the plugs is either the dist. cap or rotor. Make sure the spring loaded carbon center post is still in the distributor cap and making contact with the rotor and that the cap is not cracked. The rotor needs to be clean (shiny).
Spark at the coil but not at the plugs is either the dist. cap or rotor. Make sure the spring loaded carbon center post is still in the distributor cap and making contact with the rotor and that the cap is not cracked. The rotor needs to be clean (shiny).
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itsa68
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 832
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:24 am
- Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba,Canada
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
In addition to the above, swap the coil the high tension wire with another (just in case the metal ends are arcing to the carbon wire due to pulling off from the coil or distributor).
I've also had a bit of moisture in the cap which made my car hard to start and when it finally did, it ran the ^$%^$*!!!!
Ray B.
I've also had a bit of moisture in the cap which made my car hard to start and when it finally did, it ran the ^$%^$*!!!!
Ray B.