Temp sender alternative fix

[Linda]

Here is an alternative fix for a stuck or broken temp sender, or for those not willing to risk trying to take one out either with the head on or off the car. Also for those who don't have a working guage.
The pic shows a coolant pipe from a 240 SX , that fits inline in the upper radiator hose and a fitting for the conversion.

15311916409810.jpg

Size is 5/8-18UNF to 16mm x1.5 for the fitting.
I tried one of these fittings which did not work, but another did...same size. Summitt has the fitting also. A local automotive hydraulic shop would be a good source I used Orme Bros in Northridge, CA. http://www.ormebrothers.com"
You may need an o-ring between the 2 fittings.
Mount the mechanical guage inside the car and run the tubing and probe up to the coolant pipe, and have a temporary or permanent fix for knowing the temp of your car.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2930

Stay cool!

Linda

[Linda]

Here's another set-up for a mechanical guage from Pegasus racing, you add guage:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecID=5994" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Linda

[sfdaugherty]

Linda:

I replaced my original sending unit because the screw broke off. The replacement is a push-on type. I'm having a heck of a time trying to find a butt connector or some other type of fitting to hook it up. Do you have any ideas of what I can use to connect it? The original wire is also getting a little short. Is there any problem extending it?

I ordered a couple kits from vintage connections today but I doubt any of the connectors I ordered will work. I ordered the kits mainly to replace bullet and socket connections.

Shannon

[Linda]

Shannon,
You were lucky and could replace your unit. Many of them are frozen or broken and getting them out is a challenge and can mess up the head if done wrong. See archives for discussion.
You can extend the wire and put a bullet connector on it, which is what many have done, replacing the original sender with the tiny screw.

Linda

[sfdaugherty]

Maybe I need to pull it out again and coat the threads with anti-seize for the "next" time. None of my butt connectors are large enough to fit so I'll check out a few auto parts stores tomorrow and see if I can get a larger connector. I have a spare sender that I bought on ebay that is also a push-on type but the connector size is slightly smaller.

Thanks,

S

[SlowBoy]

Here's another set-up for a mechanical guage from Pegasus racing, you add guage:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecID=5994" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

Inline Temp Gauge Adapter for 1.50" Hose, with 3/8NPT
This aluminum adapter will allow you to install a mechanical temperature gauge sensor bulb in a 1.5" ID hose. Electrical senders and warning light switches can also be used provided they can be installed in (or adapted to) a 3/8 NPT port.

Our upper hose has an inner diameter of about 1 5/16" (1.309" (33.25mm))

I bring this up as I have tried a 1 3/8" ID adapter and the upper hose will not go on it. The outer lip of the adapter crowns at 1.51" then down to 1.45"

I think the 1.5" ID adapter would make me swear more.

I have an adapter that looks like that 240sx one and the upper hose is an easy fit but I don't know where my adapter came from.

[Linda]

I got another hose to cut up so that I could keep the original upper hose in case things didn't work out (I've learned!) So I am not sure of diameter, it was probably 1 1/2 " hose, just 3/16" larger than Jim's radiator hose. I made sure the coolant pipe fit in it at the auto parts store.
There are many adapters on EBAY, but most have a small threaded hole not large enough for the probe, and the adapter idea didn't seem realistic either. I got one and it did not work.

Linda

[dbrick]

Linda:

I replaced my original sending unit because the screw broke off. The replacement is a push-on type. I'm having a heck of a time trying to find a butt connector or some other type of fitting to hook it up. Do you have any ideas of what I can use to connect it? The original wire is also getting a little short. Is there any problem extending it?

I ordered a couple kits from vintage connections today but I doubt any of the connectors I ordered will work. I ordered the kits mainly to replace bullet and socket connections.

Shannon

I think what you need is a bullet connector, maybe a different size? a butt connector may fit, but has no spring tension to keep it on. A stop by the junkyard may get what you need, just look for a similar connection, and snip off the connector. Have a photo or part number on the sender you used?

[sfdaugherty]

This is the sender I have:

I tried a bullet connector from an extra wiring harness I have and it works perfectly.

Thanks for the hint.

[mlangbauer]

I had to lengthen my coolant temp wire and found the connector at my local Napa auto parts store. If you can't find them there let me know and I can check to see if I have any spares...if so, I can mail one to you.

[Linda]

Got a question about this, so updated pic and info.
Originally from Spriso for the fix idea.
With temps at 112 around here it is nice to have a reliable temp sending unit, though a bit ugly.
Linda

[Curtis]

4mm socket terminal from Vintage Connections/Spark Moto or other suppliers. To extend the wire buy the 4mm bullet as well then put a socket on the shortened wire and make an extension with the socket and bullet.

You should put some protective sleeving on it as well.

[JT68]

A sender in the hose is really not a great idea sorry. You need the sending unit on the head. If your thermostat fails, belt breaks or water pump fails, the cylinder head will cook while the radiator/hose remains cool.

I suppose it is better than NO sending unit, but it's not a replacement for cylinder head temp. Sending units can almost always be removed successfully.

Another good spot for a temp sending unit (mechanical or electric) is the giant nut on the back of the 1600 cylinder head. Of course you have to do this when the head is off or the engine is out, not really possible to drill&tap while in place. j

[RustBucket]

The air cooled engine guys (airplanes and VW's) run a cylinder head temp gauge pickup that fits under the sparkplug like a washer.
Rustbucket

[Linda]

That sending unit is frozen on there and I am not going to risk getting it off, breaking it, having to drill, remove the head etc. Tried a couple of shops but they declined . I always thought the unit was marginal anyway. Not a priority.
So, I am happy with this setup, it has been pretty reliable . I have seen something similar mounted to the water tower.
I do check thermo, water pump and radiator all of which are working well. The laser temp gun is useful also.

Linda