New/Modified Header Design?

[Daryl Smith]

My parts went to the builder/welder yesterday. I was quoted between $500 - $700 Can. which would be 20% less in US funds so....$400 - $560 US.....Not cheap.

One problem with getting this shop to build other headers is that I/you have to supply all the parts because they don't stock ANY pipe as small as we need for our cars. They are normally building for small/big block V8's. They were actually VERY surprised that I could get 1 3/8" U-bends locally. They also readily admit it is far cheaper to buy the merge collectors as they could not duplicate them for anywhere near the price.
Another problem for those of you in the US would be the back and forth across the Canada/US border.

I am very confident that the theory of sizing will work out for this, but I will not know for sure till I bolt it on and fire up the engine. As far as I am concerned the risk is very small, and I'm willing to take the risk. Are you? Do you want to go ahead and build it before I confirm mine works as expected?
Then again, mine is at the borderline between sizes. I went with the smaller size because I'm more interested in overall driveability/milage than top end power, this is expected to give a very wide powerband, but may choke off power near 6000 rpm. I originally was shooting for a 7000 rpm limit, but drivability is paramount so I had to re-evaluate my goals.
I'm more cruiser than racer. I think this also works well with my cam choice and intake design.
It is a system aproach.

If there is enough interest, after it's built and proven, perhaps it would work as a template for a header manufacturer to duplicate if enough people want to go in for a group buy? Would be lots cheaper to have 20 or so built than 3 or 4, and stainless steel would be a possibility also.....
Will be 3-5 weeks before I am able to test it out, probably a couple more weeks after that while I tune my EFI system......

[dbrick]

Daryl,
Wait and see sounds like a good idea..I'm in no big hurry.

[Daryl Smith]

Just talked to the Header shop today. They expect to have it finished by the end of this week!
I will post up pictures as soon as I get it in my grubby mitts!

[jfunkdelicious]

Hey Daryl,

Any more updates on this?

Thanks,

Jess

[Daryl Smith]

I just got the call a couple of hours ago that I can come and pick it up. I'll probably get it tomorrow.

[dbrick]

Daryl, do you want me to make a tracing of the "universal" flange on that header I got? Verified it fits both 1600 and 2000. If you are going to do a couple of these headers, may be a good thing.

[Daryl Smith]

Picked up the header today.....While I'm quite happy with the overall layout, the 'execution' is not that great. I'll have to clean up some welds, pretty rough around the flange. Looks like he left all the 'burs' on from when he cut the pipe.....


It really closely follows the lines of the stock header, but is slightly longer at the bottom.

I'll be away from the computer for a few days..........

[nats226ny]

Hey Daryl haven't heard from you in a while, how is the header working out? Any advise for us who want-to-do.
I see from the list that your planning a trip, have a great time and drop us a line and let us know about the header.

Thanks Gary

[Daryl Smith]

Hey, Sorry guys, guess I've got too many projects going.
I am waiting to put the header on with my new intake manifold. Might be a bit. Organizing with freinds and family for welding, machine work etc. takes a bit longer than running over to the machine shop, but saves me more than a few dollars.
I'm itching to get ot on and tested too, but trying to minimize my costs, and do it right the first time.

[Daryl Smith]

A little more info:

http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Don't make those headers too BIG!!

The Speed Talk forum is a great place to glean info on all aspects of auto performance, all makes.

My car is in pieces again, waiting for some welding to be done before I can put the exhaust back together. I gotta take a welding course so I can do this stuff myself.............

[Daryl Smith]

Just a short article for those who may be following this thread. I may have more tidbits next weekend. keeping my fingers crossed.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/he ... index.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Daryl

[Daryl Smith]

I decided to modify the currently available header to a 4-2-1 style to see what it would take to do it, and just see what the performance gain might be.


I used a V-band connection because it seemed so much easier to put together and only have to tighten one nut. Two other advantages are that it is very easy to slip the header into place in the car even with the starter in place, and with access for the O2 sensor so tight, I can install the sensor where it is easy to access (parallel to the ground), then rotate it up into place and tighten the clamp. I have been assured that these things make a very secure leak free seal.



I am attempting to get this installed and the car driving for the meet in North Vancouver on the 28th.

[spl310]

I like it! I have the remains of a 2000 header around here that rotted out at the bottom. If your project works out, I may have to get one of those made up.

[Daryl Smith]

This is the "after the cutting/before the welding" picture with the parts on a jig I made up.


Pretty straighforward. Parts needed:
2 pcs. 1.5" to 1.625" 2 into 1 parallel merge collectors
1 pc. 1.625" to 1.75 - 2.0" 2 into 1 parallel merge collector
2 pcs. 1.625" 90* bends
1 short piece of 1.5" pipe to extend the #1 & 4 primary pipes because they end up too short to weld back together.
1 short piece of pipe to mount the V-band or collector flanges to the collector and flex pipe in your final exhaust pipe size.

Then a good band saw, disk/belt sander, and a TIG welder will be needed to complete the job, or just take it all to a good fabricator/welder like I did. Sometimes they make you wait..............

Sid,
The PipeMax program puts these sizes as close as you are going to get for the 2000cc engine U20 or R20, with the 2" to 2.25" final size (Depending on your performance mods). Yes some tweaking could be done for all out/every hp available, but this will get you VERY close, and I think quite a bit better than the 4-1 available.

[23yrRebuild]

Nice solution, Daryl !

Mike Hudson
'67 - Stroker / 5-Speed